Body filler, patching questions etc - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dino11 · 07-21-2009, 04:57 PM

I am wanting to patch the body trim holes and various other small body holes. What is a good product to use for this, and how should i prepare the surface for proper bond?
Also it would be good if i could use the same product to go over patch panel welds etc. Also any bodywork tips would b appreciated. Thx

mclairmo · 07-21-2009, 05:29 PM

I'm not sure if you already welded the holes shut. If not, you cannot use body filler (aka Bondo) because it will fall out and/or shrink. I speak from experience. The holes have to be welded shut with a mig or tig welder and then ground down flush and then body worked further, if necessary. Large holes would need a sheet metal patch cut to go behind the hole or to fit flush in the hole. You can hire someone to do the final welding or take a community college/adult education welding course and buy you own mig welder for around $300-$400 like I did. I think you can rent a mig welder, too. For small holes, you just place a copper plate behind each hole, if possible, and weld the hole shut. If you do not have access to the back of the hole, you have to be good at welding holes without making the hole bigger. It's easy to burn through if you are inexperienced. Getting good at welding is all about practice. Clean everything with a silicone/wax remover religiously before applying body filler, primer and paint.

VanceH · 07-21-2009, 05:35 PM

great question!! what about if you weld the holes and there is still really tiny pin holes after you grind every thing down? can you fil those with bondo (thin coat)????

Dino11 · 07-21-2009, 05:59 PM

i know you cannot use bondo type fillers to fill large holes. but the small trim holes for the like side trim on the bedsides would need to be welded also? that is not a problem, i was just curious. people dont know what bondo is for lol. i am lucky my truck is bondo free.

my stepdad is a welder, and i will be working with him to patch the bedstake holes, the orig gas filler hole, tailgate handle patch, my rollpan, etc. what would be a good filler to use to go over these patches and to use for the hundred fifty trim hole patches? just bondo brand filler? or is there a better quality product? thanks for the responses

mclairmo · 07-21-2009, 06:02 PM

The oxidation/flux/and other possible crap from welding remaining in the hole may eventually cause the filler to fail in that area. It's best to not leave any pin holes. If you do, clean them out real good with grinders/wire wheels, sanders, or whatever, just get it nice and shiny clean before bodyworking it.

Naterman35 · 07-21-2009, 06:22 PM

I would weld the wholes..

But.. if you dont instead of using a regular plastic filler... try a fiber reinforced filler(Kitty hair)

Is plastic filler "bondo" but with fiberglass... You can get long or short strand...

I used this filler when i did my side marker shaves and when i put in my rockers and cab corners. then regular filler over that then glazzing putty over that if needed.

My trucks going flat so when theres "waves" you cant physically se them so i didn't take for ever on mine. With the "kitty hair" i wouldnt buy the "Bondo" brand... i seems very runny and not as spreadable as others.

As for plain fillers i used evercoat lightweight It sand decently and its cheap i spent 11 bucks a gallon. that have some other "Premium" fillers like rage gold and stuff.

If you wanna go nuts learn to "lead".. metal 2 metal is almost as good.

check out autobody tool mart and east wood.

mclairmo · 07-21-2009, 06:47 PM

I used the Eastwood lead kit on my Camaro and it was difficult to work with, very messy and toxic. I eventually got the hang of it but it took awhile. The results are awesome, though, if you can figure out how to use it well. I leaded up the channels for the windshield washer squiters located at the top of the firewall and that lead has never come out in over 15 years. Also leaded a horribly crushed rear quarter panel crown area that I did not want to cut out. Is much better than Bondo if done correctly. Factory used lead back in the day to fill in roof to quarter panel seems.

Naterman35 · 07-21-2009, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I used the Eastwood lead kit on my Camaro and it was difficult to work with, very messy and toxic. I eventually got the hang of it but it took awhile. The results are awesome, though, if you can figure out how to use it well. I leaded up the channels for the windshield washer squiters located at the top of the firewall and that lead has never come out in over 15 years. Also leaded a horribly crushed rear quarter panel crown area that I did not want to cut out. Is much better than Bondo if done correctly. Factory used lead back in the day to fill in roof to quarter panel seems.

leads dying and it makes me want to cry. Thats what some of the traditional hot rod guys use... A guy i work with uses wheel weights that he gets from work to do it. i've tried it once and didnt do well at it but i also have no real idea what im doing with it... Id like to learn soon tho.

Hawker7 · 07-21-2009, 07:30 PM

when I bought my truck the PO had the trim removed about 15 years ago, and the person that did the work just used bondo over the holes. You would not know the holes were filled with bondo by looking, and it took a little effort to knock it out, so it can last a long time.

TomsCheyenne · 07-21-2009, 11:50 PM

I agree with Naterman, I use short hair fiberglass over all of my metal repair. It goes on like bondo, but won't shrink and is waterproof to seal any pinholes missed. Then I grind it flush and finish with regular bondo. Never had any problems, and some of my restored cars have been around more than 20 years. But you have to try to weld it solid. The pic is ground fiberglass after welding a patch in solid, I POR 15 behind it after.

mrein3 · 07-23-2009, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I used the Eastwood lead kit on my Camaro and it was difficult to work with, very messy and toxic. I eventually got the hang of it but it took awhile. The results are awesome, though, if you can figure out how to use it well. I leaded up the channels for the windshield washer squiters located at the top of the firewall and that lead has never come out in over 15 years. Also leaded a horribly crushed rear quarter panel crown area that I did not want to cut out. Is much better than Bondo if done correctly. Factory used lead back in the day to fill in roof to quarter panel seems.

My dad retired from the St. Paul, MN Ford plant in 1994. When he retired they were still annually checking the guys that did the lead work for lead poisoning and they quit using it years before.

Lead body work is solid - the quarter panel seam on my 72 Chevelle is still as perfect as the day the craftsman in Kansas City laid it in there in June of 1972. But I ain't going to risk my health in a feeble attempt to duplicate it.

Naterman35 · 07-23-2009, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrein3

My dad retired from the St. Paul, MN Ford plant in 1994. When he retired they were still annually checking the guys that did the lead work for lead poisoning and they quit using it years before.

Lead body work is solid - the quarter panel seam on my 72 Chevelle is still as perfect as the day the craftsman in Kansas City laid it in there in June of 1972. But I ain't going to risk my health in a feeble attempt to duplicate it.

I handle lead wheel weights day to day and am lead free.. My dads been for 20 some years... Your not eating the stuff... All else fails you can wear gloves...

tim21391 · 07-22-2009, 01:49 AM

we use this stuff called evercoat everglass stuff.. its dark green and when it drys its impossible to break almost.. but like stated before id weld it shut and if u have pin holes id use that stuff.. its got kevlar/fiberglass in it.. or if your really good you can do a good job at metal finishing

Naterman35 · 07-22-2009, 01:42 PM

i prefer the ever coat brand over all "bondo" brand

TomsCheyenne · 07-22-2009, 02:32 PM

Yeah, that's what I use, Evercoat, or Fiber Fill fiberglass. Then NAPA Micro Light filler. Bondo is just a generic term, sorry.........been slinging it for about 25 years now!

Naterman35 · 07-22-2009, 09:49 PM

In class we'd get yelled at if we called it bondo... Plastic filler plastic filler get it right... I still prefer to use the term bondo... Some people get confused when you say plastic filler but if you say bondo everyone gets it...

TomsCheyenne · 07-23-2009, 10:58 AM

I still laugh when I see the "Bondo" brand at Walmarts, it reminds me of when I had my own shop and recommended it to a "do it yourselfer" who proceeded to put it on his truck directly out of the can..............without the hardener. What a mess! He asked me how long it was going to take to "dry", I said about 20 minutes..........he said, "then 2 days is too long???" LOLOL!

07-21-2009, 04:57 PM	#1
Dino11 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: princeton, ky Posts: 63	Body filler, patching questions etc I am wanting to patch the body trim holes and various other small body holes. What is a good product to use for this, and how should i prepare the surface for proper bond? Also it would be good if i could use the same product to go over patch panel welds etc. Also any bodywork tips would b appreciated. Thx __________________ 72 c-10 lwb: mild 350 , turbo 350 w shift kit, 3.73, drop spindles and rear drop springs, e-fan, relocated fuel tank, roll pan, Progressive wheels, 02 silverado buckets&console

07-21-2009, 05:29 PM	#2
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc I'm not sure if you already welded the holes shut. If not, you cannot use body filler (aka Bondo) because it will fall out and/or shrink. I speak from experience. The holes have to be welded shut with a mig or tig welder and then ground down flush and then body worked further, if necessary. Large holes would need a sheet metal patch cut to go behind the hole or to fit flush in the hole. You can hire someone to do the final welding or take a community college/adult education welding course and buy you own mig welder for around $300-$400 like I did. I think you can rent a mig welder, too. For small holes, you just place a copper plate behind each hole, if possible, and weld the hole shut. If you do not have access to the back of the hole, you have to be good at welding holes without making the hole bigger. It's easy to burn through if you are inexperienced. Getting good at welding is all about practice. Clean everything with a silicone/wax remover religiously before applying body filler, primer and paint.

07-21-2009, 05:35 PM	#3
VanceH Loving the Jimmster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Emmett, idaho Posts: 575	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc great question!! what about if you weld the holes and there is still really tiny pin holes after you grind every thing down? can you fil those with bondo (thin coat)????

07-21-2009, 05:59 PM	#4
Dino11 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: princeton, ky Posts: 63	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc i know you cannot use bondo type fillers to fill large holes. but the small trim holes for the like side trim on the bedsides would need to be welded also? that is not a problem, i was just curious. people dont know what bondo is for lol. i am lucky my truck is bondo free. my stepdad is a welder, and i will be working with him to patch the bedstake holes, the orig gas filler hole, tailgate handle patch, my rollpan, etc. what would be a good filler to use to go over these patches and to use for the hundred fifty trim hole patches? just bondo brand filler? or is there a better quality product? thanks for the responses __________________ 72 c-10 lwb: mild 350 , turbo 350 w shift kit, 3.73, drop spindles and rear drop springs, e-fan, relocated fuel tank, roll pan, Progressive wheels, 02 silverado buckets&console

07-21-2009, 06:02 PM	#5
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc The oxidation/flux/and other possible crap from welding remaining in the hole may eventually cause the filler to fail in that area. It's best to not leave any pin holes. If you do, clean them out real good with grinders/wire wheels, sanders, or whatever, just get it nice and shiny clean before bodyworking it.

07-21-2009, 06:22 PM	#6
Naterman35 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Saginaw Michigan Posts: 199	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc I would weld the wholes.. But.. if you dont instead of using a regular plastic filler... try a fiber reinforced filler(Kitty hair) Is plastic filler "bondo" but with fiberglass... You can get long or short strand... I used this filler when i did my side marker shaves and when i put in my rockers and cab corners. then regular filler over that then glazzing putty over that if needed. My trucks going flat so when theres "waves" you cant physically se them so i didn't take for ever on mine. With the "kitty hair" i wouldnt buy the "Bondo" brand... i seems very runny and not as spreadable as others. As for plain fillers i used evercoat lightweight It sand decently and its cheap i spent 11 bucks a gallon. that have some other "Premium" fillers like rage gold and stuff. If you wanna go nuts learn to "lead".. metal 2 metal is almost as good. check out autobody tool mart and east wood.

07-21-2009, 06:47 PM	#7
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc I used the Eastwood lead kit on my Camaro and it was difficult to work with, very messy and toxic. I eventually got the hang of it but it took awhile. The results are awesome, though, if you can figure out how to use it well. I leaded up the channels for the windshield washer squiters located at the top of the firewall and that lead has never come out in over 15 years. Also leaded a horribly crushed rear quarter panel crown area that I did not want to cut out. Is much better than Bondo if done correctly. Factory used lead back in the day to fill in roof to quarter panel seems.

07-21-2009, 07:30 PM	#9
Hawker7 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 321	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc when I bought my truck the PO had the trim removed about 15 years ago, and the person that did the work just used bondo over the holes. You would not know the holes were filled with bondo by looking, and it took a little effort to knock it out, so it can last a long time.

07-21-2009, 11:50 PM	#10
TomsCheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mechanic Falls, Maine 04256 Posts: 62	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc I agree with Naterman, I use short hair fiberglass over all of my metal repair. It goes on like bondo, but won't shrink and is waterproof to seal any pinholes missed. Then I grind it flush and finish with regular bondo. Never had any problems, and some of my restored cars have been around more than 20 years. But you have to try to weld it solid. The pic is ground fiberglass after welding a patch in solid, I POR 15 behind it after. Attached Images

07-22-2009, 01:49 AM	#13
tim21391 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Salina, Kansas Posts: 1,998	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc we use this stuff called evercoat everglass stuff.. its dark green and when it drys its impossible to break almost.. but like stated before id weld it shut and if u have pin holes id use that stuff.. its got kevlar/fiberglass in it.. or if your really good you can do a good job at metal finishing __________________ 1972 C-10...402/400..flowmaster 40 series 1967 Mustang 347 stroker/C-4 1966 Mustang 289/3-speed 2013 Mustang V6/6speed w/300 ponies I may be 23, but i sure do knows 67-72s are sexy! Its not MPG its smiles per gallon! build started 11/25/08 build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2993796

07-22-2009, 01:42 PM	#14
Naterman35 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Saginaw Michigan Posts: 199	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc i prefer the ever coat brand over all "bondo" brand

07-22-2009, 02:32 PM	#15
TomsCheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mechanic Falls, Maine 04256 Posts: 62	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc Yeah, that's what I use, Evercoat, or Fiber Fill fiberglass. Then NAPA Micro Light filler. Bondo is just a generic term, sorry.........been slinging it for about 25 years now!

07-22-2009, 09:49 PM	#16
Naterman35 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Saginaw Michigan Posts: 199	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc In class we'd get yelled at if we called it bondo... Plastic filler plastic filler get it right... I still prefer to use the term bondo... Some people get confused when you say plastic filler but if you say bondo everyone gets it...

07-23-2009, 10:58 AM	#17
TomsCheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mechanic Falls, Maine 04256 Posts: 62	Re: Body filler, patching questions etc I still laugh when I see the "Bondo" brand at Walmarts, it reminds me of when I had my own shop and recommended it to a "do it yourselfer" who proceeded to put it on his truck directly out of the can..............without the hardener. What a mess! He asked me how long it was going to take to "dry", I said about 20 minutes..........he said, "then 2 days is too long???" LOLOL!



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