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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Normal, IL
Posts: 138
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Exhaust manifold...
I have the 250 c.i. I6, and had a pretty good leak from where the exhaust gasket used to be (hence the leak), when I went to replace the gasket, the nuts would just start to get tight on the bolts, when they would realease and get loose again...so I still have a hole between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust line.
Do I have to find a new manifold, or can I cut the bolts off, drill them out and replace them with new bolts? Never done that before so, I'm sure I need to use the "right" stuff with as hot as their going to get...can anyone shed light on if this is what I should do, and what I'm looking for to do the job? Thanks, Slate |
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#2 |
Just Not Low Enough!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 525
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Re: Exhaust manifold...
![]() someone had to....
__________________
NEED ELECTRICAL HELP? ASK ME! 67-72 Full Wiring Diagrams Lots Of Info, TAKE A LOOK 1967 Chevy C-10 Shortbox Bagged 327 4spd ![]() Previous: 1971 Chevy C-10 Short Sep I6 Auto (Traded) 1973 Chevy C-20 *THE REDNECK BATTLE TRUCK* 2001 Chevy Silverado 2Dr 5.3L Shortbox. R.I.P. 1969 Volkswagen Bug This is my first meeting, I have a horsepower problem. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Normal, IL
Posts: 138
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Re: Exhaust manifold...
I feel like this is the most worthless picture ever, but inside the circle is where the exhaust bolts to the manifold on 2 bolts, the bolts are not allowing me to get the exhaust tight to the manifold, so the gaskets are burning up...
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MinneSNOWta
Posts: 1,381
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Re: Exhaust manifold...
IMO, the easiest solution (cheapest too) would be to throw a few thick washers on there, and see if you can get it tight enough with the bolt positioned on a better section of the stud.
otherwise, you can always replace the stud. i'm not familiar with that particular manifold, so i don't know if the stud is set, or threaded in, but worst case scenario, you can cut it off, drill it out, and then tap it with new threads. you can pick up a new stud kit at pretty much any auto parts store, if you don't want to piece it together yourself. Good luck ![]()
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2003 GMC Sierra 1500 WT 1995 Nissan Hardbody 2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo DC2 (SW/AW) Clyde W. Harvey USN "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" Winston Churchill |
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#5 | |
Size Matters
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lyman, SC
Posts: 9,189
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Re: Exhaust manifold...
Quote:
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"Reading the owners manual is only for quitters." Jason Harper, Bloomberg News. ![]() ![]() |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Take Off
Posts: 1,908
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Re: Exhaust manifold...
Threads on studs are stripped or hoels for them in the manifold are stripped out. Remove nuts and check threads on studs. If not, ok, replace them. If ok, then remove studs and check threads in the manifold. If stripped, drill and tap new threads and install new studs. Or, (cheap way) just stack washers as mentioned above to get the nuts to tighten up.
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 152
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Re: Exhaust manifold...
I had the same issue with my 250 six - the studs wear and rust away. Depending on how bad the studs are the washer solution may work as others have mentioned. I was lucky - I located a new manifold with perfect studs for free for my solution. These things are near imposible to drill and tap with out a press and vise - the best way to fix if the washers don't work is to remove it and take it to a machine shop like was suggested - while you're at it have the studs replaced that bolt to the intake also. You will probably have the same problem there when you take it all apart.
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