Firing up new motor/ need advice

[rick0312]

Hey all,
I am almost at the point where I will be starting my new motor for the first time. Since this is my first time doing this I would appreciate any advice. I do have a few questions:

1) when filling the radiator and Block for initial startup, should I use distilled water only or should i mix a 50/50 solution of atifreeze and distilled water?

2) i wasn't planning on installing my drive shaft until after the initial breakin. i have a 3 speed manual trans and was wondering if it was ok to run through the gears while the drive shaft is not installed? Could this potentially damage the manual trans? (dumb questions I know, but this is my first motor install)

Thanks
Rick

[smoky02]

Answer to the first question, I wouldn't use the pre-mixed antifreeze, but that's just my personal opinion. Otherwise I say the half and half is what I recommend. Now to the second question, I don't think it will hurt anything, but I have never tried to run a vehicle without the driveshaft. So I'm sure someone else will chime in with a better answer. Also, don't forget to prime the motor.

[rick0312]

thanks smoky. will pre-prime motor.

[vectorit]

When I was building motors, I would only run plain water in the cooling system. Since if you have a leak in the oiling system, anti freeze damages bearings and other contact surfaces faster than just water.
Once the motor is found to be working correctly, and there is no sign of issues then I drain the water and put in a 50/50 mix of water and anti freeze.

The only issue I see about the no drive shaft thing is, if there is no slip yoke on the tail shaft then your oil will spill/spin out when you are putting power through it.

The cooling thing is purely my oppinion and is not proven factual as far as I know...

[cdowns]

water only till it passes the leak test out of the hose is fine

[mclairmo]

Water only for break in since you may have a cooling system leak on start up and don't want antifreeze all over everything. Prime engine with a primer that has the built in collar so both heads get oil. Or use an old distributor with drill attached. Also, fill the float bowls with gas and bring engine up to TDC. You want this thing to fire up right away. Also use proper break in procedures to break in the cam or you may lose a lobe or two. I've seen it done before. Don't know about trans, but you may lose some gear oil if running through the gears with no driveshaft or plug in it.

[Skirkpat]

what kind of oil are you putting in it? If you are putting synthetic in, stop, do not do that use conventional, with a zinc additive...I would use water only as stated above for cooling

[cparman]

water only
a light weight oil 30w or a 10w30
pre oil the motor

You never know what is going to happen, so If it were me, I would have a friend or two there, and have everyone looking around for a leak, smoke, or a noise.

Get #1 cyl close to TDC, and give it a bit of advance after start up. Break in the cam, and me being me. that is when MY new motor gets its first oil change.

I would leave the water in it for a few days, and continue to check for coolant leaks. Once you are confidant you have none, a gallon of pure antifreeze, distilled water, and if you live in a hot climate a bottle of purple ice.

[mclairmo]

I use ZDDPlus in my oil for the zinc and use Water Wetter and all distilled water (no antifreeze) to help cool my big block. I don't need antifreeze, never gets below 60 degrees out here.

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I use ZDDPlus in my oil for the zinc and use Water Wetter and all distilled water (no antifreeze) to help cool my big block. I don't need antifreeze, never gets below 60 degrees out here.

I have ran pure water before, I stopped after my freeze plug's started to give out from rust...I have heard there is an additive to stop rust though?

[mclairmo]

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

I have ran pure water before, I stopped after my freeze plug's started to give out from rust...I have heard there is an additive to stop rust though?

Water Wetter has an anti-rust additive and a water pump lubricant which is needed or you will get rust and/or blow out the water pump bearings. I also run distilled water to cut down on corrosion. I also drain and fill my radiator often. I also run a zinc anode in the radiator that cuts down on electrolysis, which can eat away alumuminum parts and head gaskets. I have the one that hangs down from the radiator cap but also have the one from Flex-a-Lite that replaces the drain petcock.

[Northern lights]

I don't see any point to running through the gears without a driveline. I doubt that there is any appreciable resistance difference between each gear internally. Be the same as leaving in neutral I would think. One piece of advice however, No matter how anxious you may be to "hear that engine roar", NEVER start a new engine without GOOD (prefferable quiet) mufflers. You can't hear what your engine is telling you with open headers (and it might be telling you that you have standard bearings on a .030 under crank). Don't ask how I know this.

[mclairmo]

Originally Posted by Northern lights

I don't see any point to running through the gears without a driveline. I doubt that there is any appreciable resistance difference between each gear internally. Be the same as leaving in neutral I would think. One piece of advice however, No matter how anxious you may be to "hear that engine roar", NEVER start a new engine without GOOD (prefferable quiet) mufflers. You can't hear what your engine is telling you with open headers (and it might be telling you that you have standard bearings on a .030 under crank). Don't ask how I know this.

Sounds like good advice, however, I think most of us break in an engine before driving over to the muffler shop. To do it your way would require towing the car/truck over to the muffler shop, which sucks.

[Northern lights]

That's a good point mclairmo. If that be the case, I think I would get a set of real quiet mufflers and put a flange on them, bolt them to the headers just for break in puposes. Then toss them back in the corner of the shop and head off to the muffler shop for "the real deal". Just a thought.

[rick0312]

Thanks guys. great advice as usual. i'll add the zinc additive and use distilled water only. just waiting for my summint aluminum rad to come in. Once I install that I'll fire her up...hopefully! any other suggestions are appreciated!!