Choosing donor for '59 Apache build

[rgunlock]

Hi,

This could be a bit painful as I'm new to both this forum (and forums in general) and custom building a truck - I didn't even know to pick a cool truck related name when I registered for this forum.

That said, I bought myself a semi-restored '59 Apache body on a rolling chassis to start my project. I want to build a "mild" 4wd with modern drivetrain, suspension, brakes, etc. but with the look and style of a '59. I don't want to spend a ton of money and I'm not too particular at this point on specific engine, transfer case, rear end, etc. I would like to find a reasonable donor to get me from point 'a' to point 'b' and worry about upgrades later.

I see from going through threads that S-10's seem to be one of the donor's of choice for this type project, but I'm having trouble finding an explanation of why this choice is made.

Specific suggestions, S-10 or otherwise, would be appreciated.

[dwcsr]

S10 is to narrow for a 58-59 truck. You can use a 73-87 K10. The wheels don't stick out on a 58-59 like they do on a 55-57 when using a K10 chassis. Its also a little easier swap than a S10. Craigslist has a bunch of K10 K20 in the Houston area. Where are you in Houston? I'm over near Barkercypress and 10

[rgunlock]

Thanks for the quick response Dave. You are right that 73-87 C/K 10 gives me a lot of options in the Houston area. I'm actually up near Tomball, north-west of Houston.

[blackdiesel]

Welcome to the friendliest form on the net. I used 77 truck frame for mine, but the best choice is a full size blazer of the gen., flater frame and the gas tank is all ready in the back. You can't use the truck tanks for this swap.

[p_rubottom]

Would a 67-72 frame work??

[OrrieG]

Looks like all the hard body stuff has been done. opps missed the 4wd part. I put 74 stuff under my 59 using the stock springs.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by p_rubottom

Would a 67-72 frame work??

I think it should, the front is the same, I don't know if the rear kickup is the same or close. The rear springs would have to go forward about 3". But on a 4x4 it should'nt be a big issue. I had alway wanted to do a 72 under a 58 because the 72 rides so nicely with the coil rear springs and truck arms.

[rgunlock]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Seems I have close to 20 years of Chevy K10/20's as potential donors, and probably don't need to focus on S-10's.

I appreciate all your comments.

[bensimmons_05]

awesome, can't wait to see more!

[1956cameo]

Welcome to the forum from the south side of Houston! Doing the 70s k-10 route is definately the way to go versus s-10 frame.

[addicted2dunes]

So you gonna post some progress pics on your truck?

[rgunlock]

Thanks for finding my original thread for me - I hadn't figured out how. I don't know how I missed them, but I only found the "projects and builds" a week or so ago. Man I wish I'd found them back when (or before) I started my project. That is where a newb should start rather than the general forum. I have made some progress, but I'm wondering if I should continue on this thread or start a new one in "projects and builds". It may take me a long time, but I do intend to finish this build. Suggestions?

[addicted2dunes]

You think yours is gonna take a while...... I'm supposed to be driving mine to Texas to see Grandpa!

[rgunlock]

Which year will that be??? Maybe I'll meet you in Austin then in my '59 - or not. I'm thinking you'll be on the road with yours before I am. Shoot, I'm still spending all my allowance on tools rather than parts at this point :^)

[rgunlock]

Fresh coat of white paint can (and did) hide a fair amount of ugly... Does anyone have a good picture of how the lower front fenders mount to the cab? Parts catalogs don't show very well and mine came welded to the rocker panels.

[addicted2dunes]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Fresh coat of white paint can (and did) hide a fair amount of ugly... Does anyone have a good picture of how the lower front fenders mount to the cab? Parts catalogs don't show very well and mine came welded to the rocker panels.

There is a 3/8" threaded hole in the bottom rear of your fenders. Then there is a bracket on the bottom, front of your steps/ hinge corners that has a large hole, maybe one inch? There is a bolt with a large washer (fender) that goes through this bracket and gets threaded into the fender.

[addicted2dunes]

Here is the bracket I am talking about: http://www.classicindustries.com/tru...ts/t70922.html

[rgunlock]

Thanks! There was no such part left on my truck, and not even sure about the threaded hole on the fender - have to check when I get home.

[addicted2dunes]

You can kinda see it in the lower left hand corner of this pic. If you need better pics of how it is installed let me know and I can get some up.

[rgunlock]

I think I found the part, which had been hanging by a shread when I pulled off the front clip. The shredded part probably came from here on the lower fender, and the bracket was just never welded back on when the shop the prev owner used did this professional job of replacing the lower hinge pocket.

[rgunlock]

I have actually made some progress on my build. When I started this thread asking for donor ideas, blackdiesel suggested Blazer because it was a flatter frame and already had the rear gas tank. Well, the rear gas tank was a good suggestion but I'm not sure what the frame is actually flatter than LOL!. After having the cab, front clip and engine on and off the frame at least a dozen times, and screwing up and starting over a couple more, I've finally got my cab mounts fabricated and I think I like the way it sets. Biggest issue is I didn't want to raise my bed floor any more than I had to, but didn't like how high the cab sat off the frame. The bolts are temporary because I'm still not sure I won't move the mounts again.

DISCLAIMER - if these mounts look like a good idea, keep in mind I'm a rank amateur and making this up as I go along!

[addicted2dunes]

Just bring the truck over to California and I'll finish it up for ya! I'm really good at finishing everyone else projects but can never make decisions on my own projects.

[addicted2dunes]

Definitely box it in that area.... not because of your welds but because you did a straight cut on your frame. Shoulda V'd it. I'd do a boxing plate about 18-24" long.

[rgunlock]

I was just using the flux-core wire without gas. I've since learned the error of my ways attempting to patch rust areas on my truck bed sides. Between a "how to" DVD I bought and later found the "patch panel welding 101" on Kawbe's build I think, I've got a bottle of 75/25 and switched to MIG and my welds look much cleaner. The auto-darkening mask helps tremendously as well.

I've seen where folk do a |__
| cut on their frame when shortening it. Is this what you mean by V'd it?

My donor frame had the front driver's side 1/2 of it grafted on, so I just cut out the whole repair and redid. Couldn't think of a good way to do that and get the longer weld surface.

[addicted2dunes]

Just box it and you'll be good. Another option would to double channel it. Have you ever seen a semi frame up close? It is a C-channel frame inside another C-channel frame.