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Old 01-11-2003, 02:08 PM   #1
Blackhawkdc
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lifter ?'s

I've got a 350, built with hydraulic flat tappet valvetrain. I'm looking into installing a solid lifter set up. Am I gonna need to change out anything else in the engine other than the cam and lifters? the pushrods are Edelbrock and the rockers are Proform rollers.
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Old 01-11-2003, 02:40 PM   #2
bigjimzlll
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a solid lifter cam usally requires a stiffer valve spring...the cam manufactuer will usally spec out the correct spring...I am doing the same project...I had my heads cut for bigger springs, and I had screw in studs and guide plates installed..I am also going to use a stud girdle...but im going to see 6300rpm with a N20 shot
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Old 01-11-2003, 03:34 PM   #3
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With the mechanical lifters and the needle fulcrum rockers you CAN install restrictors to limit the oil flow to the top end. That will give you more oil directed to the mains since your top end and lifters won't need as much. Its not really necessary on a street engine thats limited to 7000 rpm .

Its not really that its a hydraulic versus solid thing but you probably do want to install guide plates only because hydraulics tend to behave like self acting rev limiters . Rare is the hydraulic lifter engine that will go over 6500 rpm reliably. The lifters pump up after that and kill power. Solids on the other hand will rev to the moon and the first thing that typically lets go are the pushrods if they are not supported near the rockers.

The springs all depend on your cam grind. If its a hi lift cam that will be building lots of power up to 7000 rpm then you'll want to go with wider diameter springs with the caviat that cam lobe life will be shortened as the spring pressure goes up. I'd look for a cam profile that will keep the revs under 7000 and allows you to keep spring pressure to under 280 lbs closed . More than that and you'll need stiffer pushrods and may have shortened component life throughout the valvetrain.

Buy a rev limiter. If your used to rapping it up with a hydraulic cam you find yourself getting into trouble with a hi revving solid grind.

Thats my two cents. I just have bad memories of driving cross country and snapping a pushrod in AZ and having to go through a handfull of pushrods to get home after the guide got elongated.
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Old 01-12-2003, 01:09 AM   #4
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The cam I'm looking at is either a Lunati, #00013, with a 256/270 duration at .050", with a 500/515 lift or a comparable Crower. Anyone know of other cams they'd recommend in the same ball park. According to DD2000, with the Lunati cam, I should be around 490 horse and 445 torque. I'd like the torque and horse about equal, but this seems like a good trade-off. Plus I can advance the cam some to pull the torque up a little and sacrifice a little top end horse.
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1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free)
1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale

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Old 01-12-2003, 01:20 AM   #5
bigjimzlll
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try the xs274s10 comp or the xs268s10 both real bad tight lash cams.
Jim
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Old 01-12-2003, 01:42 AM   #6
neonlarry
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Quote:
try the xs274s10 comp or the xs268s10 both real bad tight lash cams.
Who sells those? I was wondering what the specs were, but I even looked on the comp website and i couldn't find them.
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Old 01-12-2003, 01:57 AM   #7
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they are comp cam...the 268 part number is 12-676-4
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Old 01-12-2003, 02:01 AM   #8
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look here http://www.compcams.com/information/...ID=-1371474547
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Old 01-12-2003, 02:23 AM   #9
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Cool, i was wondering about those, becuase other than you and Mikep talking about them, I had never heard anything about them.
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