POR-15 Brushers step inside please

[C10Slim]

So wanted to get feedback on people who have done their frames with POR and brushed it on. It seems to me like might be tough to get in all the nooks and crannies. How did it work for you guys?

I will have mine down to the rolling chassis and may even pull the motor but figuring out how to get everything around the front suspension and cross member with a brush is just baffling me.

[70 Suburban]

They sell swabs but i would just spray it with a cheap gun from h.f or northern

[slepysal]

One tip make sure you USE GLOVES !!!!!

[TwiggyTheDrummer]

I did my entire frame using a brush and the Matte Black POR15. I used a 2.5" brush on the main frame and a 1.25" on the suspension and all. If you spray it, it runs like crazy and with the cost of it that's alot that ends up being wasted. But the moment you stop using the brush or the paint, don't be surprised to see something harden. But definitely wear gloves and clothes that you don't mind never getting cleaned again. It's tough though, mine survived a Bobcat blade with ease.

[TwiggyTheDrummer]

But if you spray it make sure to get the Solvent.

[kizer]

Sorry for the HUGE photos, but I wanted you to be able to see the detail. Yes I used several Paint brushes. Man when the paint sets up you can not or will not be able to use an old brush. I'm almost for sure you do not want to reuse a brush either because it will contaminate the paint.

Before I started grinding:


After:


POR-15 is supposed to be self leveling and it appears to work pretty well. Remember the overall finish is dependant on the level of surface prep on the metal your striping. I did an OK job, but not a perfect Job. As for the little hard to reach spots I hope you have small hands. Its not as shinny as it appears in the last photo anymore. I used the Chasis black which is the top coat and its a bit flat and provides a UV layer of coverage.

You can follow my work in my signature if you want.

[hessian18]

Some day I would like to POR-15 my entire chassis.



Is that chassis bent in the rear ?? Those cross members are far from sighting to each other ??(Specially the center support beam )



Kinda curious unless its an illusion.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by hessian18

Some day I would like to POR-15 my entire chassis.



Is that chassis bent in the rear ?? Those cross members are far from sighting to each other ??(Specially the center support beam )



Kinda curious unless its an illusion.

the back C-channel cross member is riveted in at an angle like that.......it kinda tripped me out too when I first saw it


Kizer.....your frame looks
nice work

my wife is gonna apply the POR to our frame....and yes she has small hands

[hessian18]

Ok well thats good news. It must be another odd thing Chevrolet did ahahh !!


Looks killer !!

[kizer]

Here you go, This is what the Chasis black looks like. Its got a real nice flat look to it.

[kizer]

You know that is odd. I watched the truck go down the road before I bought it to make sure the frame wasn't bent.

I'll have to look at it when I get home. hahaha

Welp in the rusty top picture it looks squared up. Might be an odd optical illusion. I guess POR15 does more than paint it tricks the mind and camera too. Unless I'm out right bonkers which could very well be.

[ol Curt]

I found the foam brushes to work the best. When I get to a nook or cranny I just squish it in there. I use the 4" foam rollers that give a finish as good as any brush on the large areas.

[C10Slim]

Kizer looks great!! Hope mine comes out that well.

I talked to a guy over POR today and I think we came up with a pretty good plan. I am going to top coat with a spray paint so any of the tight spots that I can't get with the brush; I will get with the spray paint. Not optimal I guess but better than nothing and it will all be a consistent color.

[Imperial Kustom]

X2 on the foam brushes. Get some cheapies though cuz you will need a few! The finished product is nice and smooth. Also, the swmi gloss is nicer IMO. The finish lasts longer. The gloss dulls up a bit and UV rays make it milky lookin'.

[markeb01]

You might want to check out the following link for some durability observations and safety concerns about spraying POR:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&highlight=por

[Joemomma1]

I coated the whole frame, cross member and suspension w/ it. It goes down nice and a little goes a long way. However it scratches off easy. It might be becuase I got it media blasted before I applied the POR 15. I followed their instructions to the word. It might work out better if you leave the rust on, but do you really want rust under there?

[ol Curt]

Medial blasting first may not have helped its adhesion. It is made to Paint Over Rust

[Chevy Fleetside]

POR-15 Chassis Black. At least you can see some of it.

[jbgroby]

I used different sized foam brushes to paint the fllod truck frame, because I found that I needed to sop paint into some tight places and they work better at that and hold onto the paint with out splattering.

Way back in 2003 when I first got into restoration I use a 2 part Martin Senior epoxy, to spray the frame, What a waste of money. Had I known about Por 25 at the time I would have used that.

Jake

[Hottrucks]

por 15 then a few rattle cans of rustiolum satin black...I use the industrial cans it seems to hold up better takes awhie to dry but worth it and touch up is a breeze

[JRBECK64]

Originally Posted by C10Slim

So wanted to get feedback on people who have done their frames with POR and brushed it on. It seems to me like might be tough to get in all the nooks and crannies. How did it work for you guys?

I will have mine down to the rolling chassis and may even pull the motor but figuring out how to get everything around the front suspension and cross member with a brush is just baffling me.

C10Slim,
I did a frame about a year ago with POR15 and got side tracked on some other things and the only thing that happened to it is it faded. I am now aware that if I am going to use POR15 that I need to apply some kind of UV protection. But actually I like the way it faded and I personally like the way it looks better now. I am about to build it into a 67 ShortWide and I think I am just going to leave it the way it is. My Son was the one that painted it and he complained for a month about that stuff getting on his elbows. We laughed about it a lot and it wore off eventually.
JRBECK64

[Hilandr451]

I brushed all my POR-15 on. The self leveling thing really works!

Here's some tips I have learned from my experience with the stuff:

• 
  Thoroughly degrease then treat all surfaces with "Metal-Ready". Rinse with water and dry everything completely before applying POR-15!! I used a hand-held propane torch to dry the water from the nooks & crannies.
  
• 
  POR-15 contains some wicked chemicals that are not only dangerous to inhale, but that can also be absorbed through the skin. Wear gloves and long sleeves and make sure your work area is well ventilated.
  
• 
  Unlike other surface treatments, POR-15 cures by removing moisture from the air, so suffice it to say the curing time is inversely proportional to the amount of moisture in the air - in other words: High Humidity = Short Curing Time
• 
  I have had the best results and quickest curing time under high humidity. A good rainy day outside with the grage door open about 18" works great, but if you don't want to wait for the rain, just pour a gallon or two of water on the shop floor (preferably directly under your project) after you finish painting and it will do the trick.
• 
  Obviously don't paint outside in the rain. Water applied directly will ruin your project, but if you decide to paint outside, water the ground down real good the night before and try to keep your project out of direct sunlight. Remember to remove any dew that might have formed on your project over night.
  
• 
  POR-15 works best in a thin application - you shouldn't allow it to pool. keep your brush lean when applying, and spread the paint as thin as you can. When it starts to cure in a pool, it causes moisture to be pulled into the paint and then it bubbles. If that happens it no longer makes an air-tight seal to the metal and that would defeat the purpose.
  
• 
  There is no known solvent for POR-15 after it cures. Consequently, if you have just the slightest amount of paint on the lid of the can when you seal it back up, not even Hercules can get the lid off again.
  I have found that POR-15 keeps forever in a Mason jar. The glass is much easier to get clean when replacing the lid, and I can throw away the old inserts and replace w/ new each time I want to re-seal.
  
• 
  Never ever paint out of the can (or jar). As soon as you open a can of POR-15 and expose it to the atmosphere, it starts to cure. You'll want to keep your paint as fresh as possible, so only decant what you can use in about 20-30 minutes. I poured what I needed into a small glass bowl (like a custard dish)

[Hottrucks]

I agree with the mason jar I also take a piece of plastic rap and lay it over the liquid to form a air tight seal and heres another secret put it in the freezer..it won't freeze but helps alot

[C10Slim]

Originally Posted by Hilandr451

I brushed all my POR-15 on. The self leveling thing really works!

Here's some tips I have learned from my experience with the stuff:

[*]
Unlike other surface treatments, POR-15 cures by removing moisture from the air, so suffice it to say the curing time is inversely proportional to the amount of moisture in the air - in other words: High Humidity = Short Curing Time[*]
I have had the best results and quickest curing time under high humidity. A good rainy day outside with the grage door open about 18" works great, but if you don't want to wait for the rain, just pour a gallon or two of water on the shop floor (preferably directly under your project) after you finish painting and it will do the trick.

Well this is one thing that actually has me conserned. Being in Houston we always have HIGH humidity we have been at 80%+ for months! I am worried it will actually dry too fast. I am going to wait until Sept to paint so hopefully we will get a couple of cooler lower humidity days.

Thanks for the post lost of good tips in there!

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Hilandr451

I brushed all my POR-15 on. The self leveling thing really works!

Here's some tips I have learned from my experience with the stuff:

• 
  Thoroughly degrease then treat all surfaces with "Metal-Ready". Rinse with water and dry everything completely before applying POR-15!! I used a hand-held propane torch to dry the water from the nooks & crannies.
  
• 
  POR-15 contains some wicked chemicals that are not only dangerous to inhale, but that can also be absorbed through the skin. Wear gloves and long sleeves and make sure your work area is well ventilated.
  
• 
  Unlike other surface treatments, POR-15 cures by removing moisture from the air, so suffice it to say the curing time is inversely proportional to the amount of moisture in the air - in other words: High Humidity = Short Curing Time
• 
  I have had the best results and quickest curing time under high humidity. A good rainy day outside with the grage door open about 18" works great, but if you don't want to wait for the rain, just pour a gallon or two of water on the shop floor (preferably directly under your project) after you finish painting and it will do the trick.
• 
  Obviously don't paint outside in the rain. Water applied directly will ruin your project, but if you decide to paint outside, water the ground down real good the night before and try to keep your project out of direct sunlight. Remember to remove any dew that might have formed on your project over night.
  
• 
  POR-15 works best in a thin application - you shouldn't allow it to pool. keep your brush lean when applying, and spread the paint as thin as you can. When it starts to cure in a pool, it causes moisture to be pulled into the paint and then it bubbles. If that happens it no longer makes an air-tight seal to the metal and that would defeat the purpose.
  
• 
  There is no known solvent for POR-15 after it cures. Consequently, if you have just the slightest amount of paint on the lid of the can when you seal it back up, not even Hercules can get the lid off again.
  I have found that POR-15 keeps forever in a Mason jar. The glass is much easier to get clean when replacing the lid, and I can throw away the old inserts and replace w/ new each time I want to re-seal.
  
• 
  Never ever paint out of the can (or jar). As soon as you open a can of POR-15 and expose it to the atmosphere, it starts to cure. You'll want to keep your paint as fresh as possible, so only decant what you can use in about 20-30 minutes. I poured what I needed into a small glass bowl (like a custard dish)

Some great tips. I live in the High Desert, and it is dry with low humidity. I guess I have to wait for a rainy day to do mine. I already have done a Studebaker frame with POR-15 and it came out great. But one thing you didn't mention is it does dry very slow, and dust and dirt can land on it. Maybe if it was more humid when I did it, it would have dried quicker. It still came out really nice. I did the diff also.