Problem with DJM drop spindle.

[JQE80]

I seem to have a problem with my caliper when I try to install it on the drop spindle. Its a DJM 3" spindle and the metal bushings where the caliper bolts go through hit the spindle so it doesn't go on smoothly. I did pop the bushing part out half way and got one side on but I figured I should check to see if anyone had seen this.

[spr85gmc]

nvm miss under stood time to bust out the grinder

[joe231]

If I understand your problem correctly...those bushings float in the caliper....you probably need to replace the rubber O-ring and fresh lube, or just clean and lube the old one

[JQE80]

Not sure but it might have to do also with my calipers as they are rebuilt units. It is the metal sleeve that is on the back side that the mounting bolt starts at. It almost seems like I need to grind the spindle smooth because there is about a 1/4" that sticks out from the spindle. I got everything together but it seems like the front pad is now dragging on the rotor.

Jarrid

[joe231]

Pics would greatly help us understand the issue you are having....

[JQE80]

Yeah I know but I dont have anywhere to post them right now. It is very hard to describe.

Jarrid

[menace121978]

i understand. i had the same problem w/ mine but i thought it was because of all the coats of paint and clear i put on. i ended up forcing them in after i scraped the hell out of the paint. i just used a screw driver and a hammer to get them on and the pad kind of drags a little but once its on the ground i pushed the chassis around and didnt feel a drag. iduno if its going to be a problem yet or not. i also figure the calipers will 'set' after it gets fluid pressure and driven some. worst comes to worse i'm going to grind down that little round edge that sticks out and see if that fixes it. let us know what you do.

[JQE80]

Yep you got it. I am in the same boat as you though because mine is just a rolling chassis so I wont know for awhile either. I just figured someone had run into this and would have a solution. For now I just used a screwdriver and pryed the bushing out a little and got them on. Hopefully someone else can let the both of us know. I have pics that I can send to someone to post so that it can be more clear.

Jarrid

[menace121978]

ya, i really dont think its a big deal. my rear disc caliper drags like that on the pass. side too. i think they will settle in. we'll just have to make sure theres not an excessive amount of brake dust and if it pulls or eats pads.

[Tow Me]

Could it have something to do with the difference between the 2 rotor options. When I ordered my spindles, they ask for the different rotor sizes. I believe it has to do with the heavier duty brake systems. Could you have the wrong spindle?

[3r!c84]

yea did u order the 1 in think rotor or the biger 1.25(ithink) rotor??

[joe231]

are you taking about these bushings?


if so, those are the ones I was telling you that the caliper floats on, as the pad wears out the caliper moves further from the spindle but the bushing stays next to the caliper(it is captured by the caliper bolt) so when replacing the pads you have to push the bushing back into the caliper to put the caliper back on the spindle.....so if prying on the bushing and moving it back into the caliper worked for you, that is exactly what needed to happen and how these brakes are designed.....make sense?
did you make sure the piston was pushed all the way back into the caliper before you installed the calipers, if it isn't that could be your drag issue, but if you were able to get the caliper over the rotor everything is good, it will adjust it's self the first time you apply the brakes

[JQE80]

yes those small metal bushings are what I am talking about. I pushed them away from the spindle and got them on but now they stick out the back side of the caliper. The caliper bolt still goes through and I was able to tighten it.

Jarrid

[joe231]

Yes that is exactly how they are designed to work
they allow the caliper to float and move as the pads wear

if you will notice...the head of the caliper bolt is the same diameter as the bushing, so when the bolt is tight against the bushing there is probably close to an inch of possible movement by the caliper....

I will look online and see if I can find a picture

[joe231]

here is a pic that Jarrid asked me to post of his issue




did you replace the pads?

[menace121978]

my word... all that grease on the caliper is whats holding that thing back j/k man,

looks just like mine. i think Joe's right they just need to self adjust once you push the pedal. i also installed new bearings and seals w/ new pads and rotors. maybe the rotor needs to be tightned more? i tried to make mine seat (bearings) by torqing them down while spinning the rotor and still had a hard time getting the caliper on though. its almost (on mine anyway) like the pads are too thick...

[joe231]

did you replace the bearing races?

[menace121978]

i did... the rotors came loaded with them.

[JQE80]

Yeah everything is fairly new. I am just glad to know its not just me. My pads and rotors are pretty new also.

Thanks for putting up that pic

Jarrid

[joe231]

Originally Posted by menace121978

i did... the rotors came loaded with them.

the reason i asked is, if the inner race isn't fully seated it would cause the issue you are describing, the first time it is driven the race will seat, just be sure to check the spindle nut after the first test drive

Originally Posted by JQE80

Yeah everything is fairly new. I am just glad to know its not just me. My pads and rotors are pretty new also.

Thanks for putting up that pic

Jarrid

I would say as long as you were able to get the caliper with pads over the rotor you should be fine....you might check into the 1 inch rotor versus the 1 1/4 inch...but I believe the bearings are different between the 2 so you can't accidentally use the wrong rotor with the wrong spindle


no problem on the pic

here is a write up on how to post pics
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=295313