3 on the tree to TH400 changeover info?

[Roadhammer]

I pulled the old 283 out and im planning on dropping in a 350 that i have along with TH400 i got from a friend. Ive read here and there that there is a some kind if crossmember/mounting modifications that need to be done.

Can i use the crossmember thats ther or do i have to change the whole thing...is there a thread of someone doing this with good pics and discriptions...If i need to change what are my options and where do i get parts?

Roadhammer

[Real_McCoy]

This has been discussed countless times on this board. Try searching for the existing threads for a more complete answer.

For the I6 change over the crossmember was at the back of the engine/front of the tranny. I am unsure about the 283 crossmember. The 350/400 will need a crossmember at the rear of the tranny. You can mod one from a later model truck or you can purchase a crossmember from many vendors. Another issue will be the length of the driveshaft.

[markeb01]

It also depends on if your truck is a 60-62 or 63-66. There's all kinds of aftermarket support for the 63-66, and almost none for the 60-62 in the suspension and engine/trans mounting departments.

[SixOneC10]

Is your steering column for sale? Maybe a trade for my 4 speed column if you plan on using a floor shifter?

[Captainfab]

Basically what you need to do is remove the bellhousing crossmember, and then install the TH400 using an auto trans crossmember from a '67-'87 C10 or C20 truck. You'll just have to drill the holes to bolt it to the frame. Some of the later model ones only have one hole in them for the trans mount. I would look for one with two holes. I like the two bolt trans mounts better.

The one drawback to using the '67-'87 crossmember is it doesn't have the mechanism for the E-brake. It just depends if you want or need the E-brake. If you want one with the E-brake mechanism, let me know.

Of course you will also need to shorten the driveshaft, and hook up some sort of trans shifter. An aftermarket cable operated one is the simplest.

[Roadhammer]

Theres another question can anyone recommend a good or cool floor shifter i can purchase online that works well with the th400?

Roadhammer

[SixOneC10]

Originally Posted by Roadhammer

Theres another question can anyone recommend a good or cool floor shifter i can purchase online that works well with the th400?

Roadhammer

So I guess the column isn't up for sale or trade?

[Roadhammer]

Originally Posted by SixOneC10

So I guess the column isn't up for sale or trade?

Sorry I did notice you'd asked. Im keeping the column. im keeping as much of the original 63 parts as possible, and its has the nice custom delux steering wheel which i love so sorry not for sale or trade.

[Captainfab]

What look are you going for? You can get one that looks like an original 4 speed shifter from Lokar, or you can go with one of the B&M Megashifters or a Hurst V-Matic. The Megashifter is available in a light truck version that is a little taller

Originally Posted by Roadhammer

Theres another question can anyone recommend a good or cool floor shifter i can purchase online that works well with the th400?

Roadhammer

[Roadhammer]

Sorry to be MR question guy but where would be the best place to buy from...Looked on ebay and a few other places seem to be about 200bucks...is this a good price?

Im always amazed when someone speaks up and i find a better deal or a used one or something...

Roadhammer

[markeb01]

You might also want to consider the Gennie Shifter. I've had both Gennie and Lokar, and I'll never own another Lokar. I hated the push button knob/cable rattle issue.

The Gennie Shifter works like a column shift on the floor, with a detent plate controlling the gear position. It's simple, can fit any standard knob, and can be mounted in multiple positions on the transmission (just like the Lokar).

The Lokar is a quality product and is probably safer since it's impossible to shift into reverse without depressing the button. Unfortunately where I live the temperatures drop below zero and in the winter the grease in the shaft got so cold the button could not be depressed making the truck inoperable. A couple cans of WD40 finally rinsed out the grease so it could be shifted, but it rattled incessantly and drove me nuts. Also more than once when I wasn't paying attention I folded my thumbnail back when depressing the button in the knob when it got caught on the edge of the button hole. Not a pleasant experience.

There is an adapter available now for the Lokar that lets the whole knob push down, allowing the use of conventional knobs which would also eliminate folded thumbnails. My son had one too with the same issues and we ultimately both gave them away.

On where to buy, I usually check Summitracing.com, then Jegs - which are normally near identical, then do a check on Ebay and a Google search. Many times I've purchased off the Google search from some smaller or remote outfit that had a much better deal than standard pricing.

[Roadhammer]

Thanks for the info...im finding it hard to find info on the gennie shifter...I did find info on B&M unimatic shifter it looks good...any thoughts on on cable vs. shafter shifter linkage?

Roadhammer

Originally Posted by markeb01

You might also want to consider the Gennie Shifter. I've had both Gennie and Lokar, and I'll never own another Lokar. I hated the push button knob/cable rattle issue.

The Gennie Shifter works like a column shift on the floor, with a detent plate controlling the gear position. It's simple, can fit any standard knob, and can be mounted in multiple positions on the transmission (just like the Lokar).

The Lokar is a quality product and is probably safer since it's impossible to shift into reverse without depressing the button. Unfortunately where I live the temperatures drop below zero and in the winter the grease in the shaft got so cold the button could not be depressed making the truck inoperable. A couple cans of WD40 finally rinsed out the grease so it could be shifted, but it rattled incessantly and drove me nuts. Also more than once when I wasn't paying attention I folded my thumbnail back when depressing the button in the knob when it got caught on the edge of the button hole. Not a pleasant experience.

There is an adapter available now for the Lokar that lets the whole knob push down, allowing the use of conventional knobs which would also eliminate folded thumbnails. My son had one too with the same issues and we ultimately both gave them away.

On where to buy, I usually check Summitracing.com, then Jegs - which are normally near identical, then do a check on Ebay and a Google search. Many times I've purchased off the Google search from some smaller or remote outfit that had a much better deal than standard pricing.

[SixOneC10]

Hey hammer I don't want to bug you anymore but my column is original and your truck would look kinda funny with a 3 on the tree column and a floor shifter. I'm willing to trade you columns and cash

[markeb01]

Here's a couple of links for the Gennie Shifter, one for the T400 and another to their main page:
http://www2.gennieshifter.com/instru...400shifter.php
http://www2.gennieshifter.com/

On the cable vs linkage preference, I think it has to do with what style of truck you're building. If you want it to look more original one of the linkage shifters with a long handle could easily pass for stock. In fact, the handle for my T350 came through the original 4 speed hole in the trans tunnel with both the Lokar and Gennie shifter.

The benefit of the cable shifter is the shift body can be mounted anywhere the cable will reach. To my thinking these are more drag racing or muscle machine oriented. It's really a matter of personal preference. I have no experience with them, but I have been told to avoid the rachet style cable shifters on a street driven car. From what I've been told, they only shift up, making downshifts difficult. I cannot confirm if this is true or not, but should be something to check out if one of these appeals to you.

[Roadhammer]

Continuation of thread....

Ive been searching but cant find a deffinative answer about the difference between a 3spd transmission crossmember and the auto transmission crossmember...

Is it in a different place....can i take the one thats there and drill a few holes and that'll work...can i make the one i have work in some way...they look to be a very similar shape from pictures ive seen...

Help... even if someone could post a link to a previous converstion about this.

Jory

[ol Curt]

Jory,

The three on the tree crossmember bolts onto the bellhouing. The automatic one bolts to the back of the transmission.

[Roadhammer]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Jory,

The three on the tree crossmember bolts onto the bellhouing. The automatic one bolts to the back of the transmission.

Yes i got that so far...the way i see it if i move it back and drill some holes.. it could it work...I have a feeling if it were that easy it would have been done before.

jory

[DPowers]

Try here for some info-
http://www.persh.org/pickup/IdeaPage.htm
the 700 and 400 while different do mount the same.

[ol Curt]

I don;t think it is that easy. I believe the original would not be long enough if you slide it back.The aftermarket ones look like they would work. I;ll try to take a pic of the two together tomorrow. That might help.

[62 Longbed]

Thanks for the info on the Gennie Shifter !!! I was gonna go with the Lokar when I do my swap .. Glad to hear input on the swapping to the auto trans ideas ..

[Roadhammer]

Originally Posted by 62 Longbed

Thanks for the info on the Gennie Shifter !!! I was gonna go with the Lokar when I do my swap .. Glad to hear input on the swapping to the auto trans ideas ..

Agreed...These guys are sure helpful arround here..THANKS GUYS

I bought a B&M Unimatic Shifter...Ill get some picks and let you know how it works if i ever get that far...Currently have the floor all cut up...OI

Jory