Thanks for your previous help - new suspension question

[327-C10]

I recently bought a 1968 swb, 2 wheel drive, C-10 short bed. It had been a project that the seller told me had languished for over 8 years. I just got the little 307 running smoothly so I can now move it around. Intend to do some engine upgrades or a swap.

So now that it runs ok, I turn my attention to the suspension. It was originally a coil spring truck front and rear. The rear frame has been notched and all coil springs have been converted to air bags. However no shocks. There is one air valve at the back bumper for the two rear air bags and one each air valve on (and I mean on not in) the inner fenders. The fronts hold air ok. I'm sure they must leak but nothing you will see for weeks. The rear left drops in about a day, the right soon after. I can't see any identification on the air bags.

Also, the steering column seems to rub on the inner fender and the steering cross bar is infinitely close to the front cross member (must rub). Included with the purchase was a front conversion kit which includes drop spindels, 5 lug hubs for disk brakes, new brake booster and new master cylinder. I think that about covers it.

From you guys that do this every day, where should I head with the suspension. I would like to complete the air bag suspension but I'm not looking for a truck that drags the pavement.

Thanks for any help or suggestions you are willing to give.
327-C10

[neonlarry]

First thing to do is get some soap and water mix and a brush and find your air leaks and fix them. Next I would get a set of good shocks (ones for a lowered truck). Air bags are just air springs so shocks would be helpful. Next I would think about getting an onboard air compressor, storage tank, valves and switches to operate the air bags properly. Next would be installing the dropped spindles and disc brakes (need to decide if you want to go 5 or 6 lug. 5 lug would mean new or redrilled rear axles and new drums, 6 lug would mean different 6 lug discs.

[VA72C10]

Also If there is only one valve for the rear you will have really bad roll as the air transfers from one bag to the other. Make sure there are bump stops installed so if a bag fails you won't be metal on metal.

[DZL1]

Dont forget the adjustable panhard bar. Pics would be helpful.

DZL1.

[327-C10]

Originally Posted by DZL1

Dont forget the adjustable panhard bar. Pics would be helpful.

DZL1.

Ok, now I know for sure I'm a newb to trucking. Adjustable panhard bar? Is that part of the existing suspension or something I have to add because of the conversion to air bags?

[327-C10]

Originally Posted by DZL1

Dont forget the adjustable panhard bar. Pics would be helpful.

DZL1.

Looks like an adjustable panhard bar may have already been installed. The left side frame rail has a bracket with a +/_ 1" diameter bar running to the top right of the rear end housing. At the connection to the housing the bar has a large nut that adjust an eye bolt (hot sure that the offical term) that is bolted to the rear end housing.

Also found in the supply of parts that came with truck was a kit for new upper rear shocks mounts that when installs relocates the rear upper shock connection point. Unfortunately no directions or reco,mmendations for the shocks.

[westofb]

Originally Posted by 327-C10

There is one air valve at the back bumper for the two rear air bags... The rear left drops in about a day, the right soon after.

If they are plumbed together to a single schrader valve...and the rear has a leak, the rear should drop evenly. If the left side is dropping quicker than the right...I would guess the leak would be either the left bag or a fitting very near the left bag...still hard to believe that one side would drop quicker than the other over the course of a day, I would think a slow leak would allow the rear to equalize (ie: drop evenly)...just thinking outloud.

[neonlarry]

^ Both, original panhard is not adjustable but at around 4" drop you need to change to adjustable to be able to recenter rear diff.

[DZL1]

OK looks like you may have the adjustable bar already. As was stated above you will need valves. I recommend 8 valves, that way you can have independent control of each corner. More importantly, it will prevent air from leaving one bag and going to the other while turning as va72 stated above.

DZL1.

[327-C10]

OK then. So I need onboard air compessor, storage tank, Valves (8) and switches to complete what was started.

I guess we are assuming I can find the leaks and they will be repairable.

Any suggestions as to who is considered a quality manufacturer of this equipment? Recommended supplier?

Thanks again

[VA72C10]

Check with Porterbilt or Suicide doors for parts/pricing.

SMC makes good valves or you can do a valve block which will be a little more but is a nicer install and less fittings required so less chance of leaks...
Viar and Thomas make good compressors...Viar is the most used currently...
Get new air line and make sure it is DOT approved...also make sure the fittings are. 5 Gallon tank minimum and make sure it's set up for a minimum of 200PSI even though you'll be running around 150. Don't use teflon tape on your fittings...it will let you overtighten them...use recommended sealant...