deluxe heater core?

[astrochimp]

I have a 63 with deluxe heat, has valve bolted to side of core.
Core was in box of spare parts so I assume it doesn't work.


I started to order a new core from LMC and a note came up saying-

**Fits models with manual temperature control and heater valve that mounts separate from heater core. Heater core for models with automatic temperature control valve is not available.

Is the core available from somewhere else, or do I need to mod mine, or try to find a radiator shop?

Early cold snap so heat was moved up a couple of weeks!

David

[austex66]

Not too sure about 63' but I got the one for my 66' at advanced auto parts after sending the one from LMC back cause it didn't fit! (neck spacing was off) It was also cheaper...

[Revoh]

I have a '63, an had the same problem with my deluxe heater. No one had it. I bought the wrong one from Classic Parts, went over and looked at the wrong one from LMC (they're both in Kansas City), went through the catalogs at NAPA, Carquest, and O'Reilly's. None of them had the core that had the same fittings as the one that went through my heater box. They thought they did, but once I looked at them, they were wrong.

I ended up having a radiator shop rebuild my original. I really went to a great deal of trouble to buy a new one, and it turned out to be pretty much impossible--at least for me.

[astrochimp]

Originally Posted by Revoh

I have a '63, an had the same problem with my deluxe heater. No one had it. I bought the wrong one from Classic Parts, went over and looked at the wrong one from LMC (they're both in Kansas City), went through the catalogs at NAPA, Carquest, and O'Reilly's. None of them had the core that had the same fittings as the one that went through my heater box. They thought they did, but once I looked at them, they were wrong.

I ended up having a radiator shop rebuild my original. I really went to a great deal of trouble to buy a new one, and it turned out to be pretty much impossible--at least for me.

Is the valve available? Mine looks rusty, but moves with force.

Is there a gasket that goes between valve and core?

I may get lucky, and have a good core/ valve. The duct at the firewall was packed full of old mouse nest, no airflow. Hope the core was pulled for no heat not leak.

David

[Bears63]

You will have to get it recored, no one makes the original style heater core that accepts the original heater control valve. You can't buy a new original style heater control valve, either. They have to be rebuilt which is a pain. Yes, there is a rubber gasket that goes between the valve and the core. You will need to make one. I have seen NOS heater control valves on e-bay from time to time, but I have never had the money to get one. They go for a lot of money. I wish you lots of luck on you heater core, I'm dealing with the same issue with my C20 that I'm wanting to keep original.

[LILRED66]

Hey astrochimp, can you post some photos of the heater control valve and the heater core? I am interested to see what these assemblies look like. Thanks.

[Bears63]

Here's a pic of the Heater Control Valve

[astrochimp]

Originally Posted by Bears63

Here's a pic of the Heater Control Valve

is the o ring the gasket between valve and core?

I have no gasket or outline from one.

David

[Bears63]

Well, the pic here is one of an NOS control valve, so I am thinking it must have used just the o-ring. I had another core and it didn't have an o-ring, just a flat rubber gasket. Of course, the core off the truck could have been replaced or worked on and the gasket made. I will have to see what the books say on that one.

[astrochimp]

I wanted to do 2 post on this.

How could I convert my heater to another year(?) so I could find a core, and adjust the heat?

Do other deluxe heaters adjust water or air flow for heat control?

What parts would I need to change to make it work?

Thanks

David

[markeb01]

I’m not familiar with how the deluxe heater automatic valve connects to the core having never owned one. I have had good experiences with external valves however. There are 3 commonly used inline styles available at most auto parts stores.

1. Manual (turns on and off like a faucet).
2. Cable operated.
3. Vacuum operated.

The last 5 items at the link below show some of the styles available. It’s important to choose the correct version for your application, some pull to open and some push to open.

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...t_order&page=1

If you can live with the truck not being pure stock, you don’t necessarily need to replace the heater you have. Just get a core with regular hose connections, and install an inline heater control valve. If having variable heat is important, then one of the cable operated valves will get the job done.

I live in the Northwest and when I need the heater I need all I can get, so I run a vacuum valve that is either closed or open all the way. I control the heat level in the cab with the fan and the vent window. A toggle switch operates an electric vacuum solenoid which opens the heater valve. It makes for a clean installation and is easy to operate. An example of the solenoid is shown at the link below. Just run a hot line to the switch, connect it to the solenoid, ground the solenoid, connect a vacuum line to the heater valve and you’re good to go.

http://www.hotrodair.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd172.htm

[Captainfab]

I haven't done so, but I would think you could install a complete '64-'66 heater assembly without too much hassle. They don't have the water valve on the heater core. You also could just eliminate the valve all together in the one you have.

Originally Posted by astrochimp

I wanted to do 2 post on this.

How could I convert my heater to another year(?) so I could find a core, and adjust the heat?

Do other deluxe heaters adjust water or air flow for heat control?

What parts would I need to change to make it work?

Thanks

David

[astrochimp]

Core is back from the shop, its good, just a slight leak at valve.

I played with the valve trying to get it moving again, it breaks free, along with a gasket that seals the shaft. Gasket is wrong, its part rubber some sand and lots of dirt.

So I have a good clean corn and a bad valve.

Mike you said something about rebuilding the valve, looks like I need info on that-

If anyone has links on a valve for sale please let me know.


Tony, do you want a photo of the core itself? Its in the garage so no problem for any you want/need.

[Bears63]

Originally Posted by astrochimp

Mike you said something about rebuilding the valve, looks like I need info on that-

They are not the easiest thing to rebuild. I do my own but I won't do it for others mainly because it's too easy to screw them up. There used to be some guys that did rebuild them, but it doesn't seem like anyone messes with them anymore. I will keep my eyes open for a valve for you. They do pop up now and then on e-bay.

[LILRED66]

Swapping systems is not difficult and with a little time and the necessary parts, it can be done in 2-4 hours.

[astrochimp]

Did a search and found this on rebuilding the valve-

This looks like the only rebuild kit available, not sure if it fits yet, will order soon (no napa local)

nappa ranco rebuild kit- NAPA - p/n Napa/Balkamp #BK660-1000
http://www.pbase.com/czechman/image/...5/original.jpg

Other stuff I found- not for 'our' trucks but the same type of setup and worth the look/read.

Photo how to rebuild for a 52 chevy.

http://www.gearheadgospel.com/tutorials/heatvalve/

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/...TRUCTIONS.html

nappa ranco rebuild kit- NAPA - p/n Napa/Balkamp #BK660-1000
http://www.pbase.com/czechman/image/...5/original.jpg

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-66-...ctinfo/68-191/


http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/index.html


Jim Tucker
29597 Paso Robles Road
Valley Center CA. 92082
760-749-3488
jthcv@juno.com


I will post more later- short on time............
David