Tubular Crossmember

[bensimmons_05]

Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone has a good picture of the positioning of a tubular engine crossmember on a TF truck.

My truck has one that is already installed, but the low part of the tube is DIRECTLY over the straight axle. I haven't dropped the engine in yet, but I'm worried about clearance issues between the straight axle and engine crossmember, maybe in a big bump.

If anyone runs a straight axle and has the tubular crossmember could you at least try to tell me it's position.

Thanks a bunch,
Ben

[pgf545]

Ben, I am a little confused because the transmission pan should not be far enough forward to interfere with the straight axle. I think maybe you are talking about the engine oil pan? I am not familiar with the TF trucks but I would think that the oil pan would clear ok with where you describe the crossmember is. The pan is shallower at the front than in the back and from everything that I have worked on over the years it should clear not problem. Post again if this doesn't make sense and I will try again....

Bernie

[bensimmons_05]

Hey Bernie,
I'm referring to the engine crossmember. The low part of the crossmember itself is right above the straight axle. I'm worried about the a big bump causing these two to colide. I have attached a picture from a loooong time ago, but it does not show what I'm talking about very good at all, there is too much pine straw in the way, hahah. I'll try to get a better picture on here tomorrow.

I looked on CPP's website and they have a how-to for this particular part. The one they installed seemed to be in about the same position so hopefully it will be ok.

Thanks a bunch for your reply Bernie.

[mr48chev]

It looks like there are very few leaves in the springs if it is sitting that close to the axle now without an engine in it.

What does it look like when you get it out of the weeds and take a serious look at it?

I'd mock up an engine and trans in it an see what it looks like an go from there. my guess at the moment is that you are either going to have to move the mount back a bit or up a bit and maybe both to get the clearance you need.

It's been 25 years since I used one of those crossmembers and then it was to put a 350 in a 53 Dodge pickup so that doesn't help much. With stock springs that truck had a lot of clearance between the crossmember and pan and the axle.

Worse case you can dig out the cut off disks and cut the thing out and fit it up like it should be.

[kulturekat]

im wondering this same thing. not to hijack but ive been pulling my hair out thinking of all of this. im trying to fit a straight six from a car into one of these truck so it has the side mounts not the ones on the front. i was thinking of running the tube cross member. does anyone tthink it will work?
from the pic it appears it would. i wondered about the fitment between the straight axel as well i was also thinking of running a dropped front axle.

[bensimmons_05]

well, the dropped axle should have no effect on the distance between the crossmember and the axle. The drop is achieved by stretching the outer ends of the axle. the leaf springs are the difference maker ...

[kulturekat]

yeah i knew that that wasnt my worry my worry was much like yours the distance bwteen the top of the middle. my worry was if that would work with a straight six. and the mounts

[kulturekat]

where did you get your dropped axle?

[bensimmons_05]

here are some better pictures of mine so you can see why I question the clearance.... I still need to take a couple shots of it to REALLY show it

[bensimmons_05]

there is a guy on ebay that will drop yours, or he has a stock of them, he'll even give you $$ for your core.

www.droppedaxle.com

I forgot his ebay user name but you can get hold of him through his site.

[kulturekat]

so does it look like youd have more of an issue not so much with the axle but more so with the steering?

would you recommend that guy to someone? rather than buying it through like speedway or some place like that?

[bensimmons_05]

Ive seen people heat the radius arm for the steering and bend it to work.

Im using CPP's power steering conversion kit that utilizes a 73-87 power steering gear.

I would definately recommend this guy, He carfully measures what he does and can even narrow the width of the axle if you need him to for some kind of wheel combo, that and the core money really spoke to me!

I was very pleased with what he did, he even talked with me about wich axle would be best for what im doing.... something you wouldnt get with a big vendor.

[bensimmons_05]

o and if your worried about the connecting rod hitting the leaf springs, CPP also sells upgraded tie rod ends that you just install on the bottom side instead of the top. works great and you get safer steering to boot.

[kulturekat]

thanks so much for the info

[nickp51chevy]

It sounds dumb, but I would jump on it to make it bounce and see if it hits with just your weight jumping on it.

[bensimmons_05]

"It sounds dumb, but I would jump on it to make it bounce and see if it hits with just your weight jumping on it. "


Apparrently it looks dumb too, my dad asked me what the hell I was doing.

I plan to do the jump test again after I get the engine and transmission in later this week too

[nickp51chevy]

Did it hit?

[bensimmons_05]

no hitting without the engine... but im gonna try again after I drop the engine and transmission in.

[bensimmons_05]

I decided to RE-Administer my jump test using much more vigerous means.

I wanted to be sure before I went through all the trouble of installing the engine and transmission.

So during the course of my test I made contact with the crossmember and axle a number of times so...
Test FAILED!!!!!!

No I guess im going to cut the old crossemember out, and put a new one in in a slightly different location.

Anyone have any other ideas???
I have a good amount invested in the drop axle and brakes.

[OrrieG]

Notch it on front side on either side below the motor mounts, pull it forward, weld the notch closed. Motor alignment stays the same, clearance issue resolved. Don't overthink it.

[ChuckDriver]

Ben,

I think you have a couple of options.

First you could cut the welds that hold the center crossmember mount to the ends that bolt to the frame and rotate the drop to the rear, thus clearing the axle. Of course then you would have to cut the engine mounts from the crossmember and re weld them on the tube.

Second after you mount the engine check the distance from the oil pan to the crossmember you may be able to remove some of the "drop" which will give you more space between it and the axle.

Just my .02 cents worth!!

Good Luck!!

[bensimmons_05]

Hey chuckdriver, I had actually considered that option. Looking at the third picture from my last post it looks like if the tube was just twisted the mount would fall between the axle and the connecting rod .It should actually keep the engine in the same position too.

Given that this was installed and driven like this... I also question if the placement is even right. I need to check my engine placement anyway, so before I get to cutting Im going to put the engine and transmission in and see if it sits too far forward or back, if it is either of those I have an answer right there.

if anyone is running a straight axle with this crossmember i would love to see a picture.

[Low buck 47]

I have something similar to these http://www.streetrodhq.com/detail/14...N_CHEVY_V.html mounts for my 47 that obviously have no issues with the tube to axle clearace issues I would post a pic but I am still new and can not

[kulturekat]

from that top view it almost looks as if they put it in backwards it could easily be cut out and turned around. and then it would miss everything and go in between both.

[bensimmons_05]

I know this thread has just about exhuasted its length but I still have more input i would like on what I have going on with this issue.

I installed the engine and trans, after struggling to get the motor mounts to lign up forever. With the motor in, I think it is in a good position, and I see that twisting the tubular part of the frame like Chuckdriver suggested will work and still clear the oil pan, so that is what I will do.

Does the engine appear to be in good placement. I can't really move it much farther toward the front, and definately no closer to the firewall.