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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 27
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Exhaust Manifold Bolts
I have an 87 Chevrolet 4x4 with a 350. Recently an exhaust leak has developed on the passenger side in the front.
![]() I narrowed it down using a hose and listening when it was cold. My question is: how easy can it be to snap the bolts on the exhaust manifold? I’ve read horror stories doing searches here for my problem and really don’t want to rip the whole thing off to tap out a bolt. I don’t have a torque wrench so I can’t tell how much pressure I’m applying to the bolts… Also, on the manifold, in the front, there is a bracket that looks to keep the alternator in place. These front two bolts sounds to be where my exhaust leak is happening. Is there any simple way to tighten up the front bolt without removing the bracket entirely? ![]() I ran out of light yesterday and had to quit working so I didn’t get to examine it thoroughly. Couple additional pics to see more area: Pan Picture Top Picture Thanks in advance for any help. BB Last edited by Bitter Beard; 01-18-2003 at 03:05 PM. |
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#2 |
Whats this wire for?....
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Barrie, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 378
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First, Welcome to the board!
As for the bolt question, hopefully someone will be able to help. I just thought Id suggest not usung a torque wrench to loosen bolts, it puts them waayy out of specification.
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Kyle ![]() '82 C10 Resto-Custom--> * 2 1/4" manifold back dual exhaust with Hooker Aerochambers & High Flow Cats *Taylor Ignition Wires *Centerline 15" Telstars with 32"x10" mudders |
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#3 |
I'm back with 2nd truck!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,775
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Welcome to the board
![]() On the exhaust bolts if you have standard manifolds then I would let the truck cool off completely (like overnight) then take some penetrating fluid like Liquid Wrench, WD-40 something like that to make it free up the bolts. I agree don't use a torque wrench on that. Use a standard socket and wrench. Don't over power it just be firm with it. Take it slow and easy. If it's the original bolt you may need to let teh WD-40 last longer on there and soak some more. Once out replace the bolt with a new bolt and a lock washer. This will help the bolt from coming back out without the help of a lock-tite thread sealer. If you have aftermarket headers then I would suggest Stage 8 Locking header bolts. I love mine. With aluminum heads tehy expand and contract around the bolt holes and cause the bolts to loosen. I installed theseon my headers and not a leak since. I don't think that they're made for standard ram horn exhaust manifolds. Also might want to go ahead and replace that gasket on the manifolds. Once it's blown it will still leak even though the bolt it tight. On the alternator not sure what you mean by the bolts on the manifold side. Not sure on that. Maybe someone else can figure that out. ![]()
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1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 27
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Thanks for the welcome folks!
I added some pictures so my descriptions make more sense. Let me know if anyone needs more info so they can compile an answer. Thanks again, BB |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 198
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That bolt is studed....there's thread bolt....the "nut"....then more threaded bolt with a nut that holds that alt bracket on kinda like this...hopefully it comes out right...
///////[]////// [] <---the nut that screws onto the end to hold the alt bracket just loosen up the alt assembly and you should be able to pull the bracket off to get at the "nut" that's part of the stud and tighten it down. Hope this helps.
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Paul D. '78 C20 Scottsdale 350ci 3 speed with granny gear 14 bolt rearend My trucks are "Car-Guy safe".......which pretty much means death trap in the hands of a normal civilian. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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I say check the injection tubes first. The tubes that screw into the manifold from the A.I.R. pump. That connection is very common for leaks and can change sounds alot. Check it very well before you do any work. I currently have two unbolted and plugged because of them leaking.
Where are you at in AZ? There are a few of us in the Phoenix area and we will probly have a meet in not too long.
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * Last edited by PHOENIX; 01-20-2003 at 01:33 PM. |
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