cleaning nuts and bolts

[chrismoore701]

I have just stripped my frame down to nothing and was wondering how I should go about cleaning all the nuts and bolts. Planned on getting one of thos cheap vibrating bowls with media and clean them, but what about the oil and grease. After I clean them, how should I treat them from rusting? any ideas on the best way to treat this

Chris

[Shane]

If it were me and I took the time to take the bolts out then I would replace them with new ones.

[chrismoore701]

just trying to keep the price down, I just dumped $1,000 on the suspension over lunch, getting expensive.

Chris

[cdowns]

soak in vineager they'll come out great

[chrismoore701]

nothing else, just vineager how long?

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

nothing else, just vineager how long?

straight from the supermarkt $3a gallon vineager in a plastic bucket rinse off with water// depends on condition usually a day or two is about right

[Thealien]

ANOTHER OPTION

[smashingchuck]

I usually start off with a parts washer if it's something I'm going to reuse. Then the bead blast cabinet if neccessary.

[mr48chev]

Thanks for the link and info from the link Thealien. Sometimes it's little fairly simple things like that that can make a big difference in putting a truck back together.

In answer to Shane, a lot of the guys want the original bolts in their trucks and will spend a lot of effort finding the correct bolts for specific spots and this helps the process. Even though it is well known that I modify and or change just about everything on my trucks there are places that nothing looks right except the original bolts.

I've got a plastic bucket with Oil Eater in it to clean small parts, I can seal it up with the lid that came with it and it doesn't evaporate. It's biodegradable and you can find it at Costco most of the time or at auto parts stores. Great for scrubbing garage floors and cement driveways too.

[chrismoore701]

Tried a wire wheel then a parts agitator to see if it could polish the nuts and when I started to put them on the wrench open the rust pours up and you can tell that was not going to work, so I just ordered the oxidizing kit, hope it works out good thanks for the tip. If your going to do it, why not do it right the first time

Chris

[royo]

You can use oven cleaner on the frame to remove grease an stuff

[chrismoore701]

already have the frame sanblasted and painted, thanks

Chris

[kev2809]

I started with a wire wheel and that sucks, I just put em back on. the vinegar idea seems interesting, I wanna go take my stuff back off now lol

[Byronic]

Subscribed to add to my list of things to do.

[ShowSS12]

I just soaked some painted bolts in reducer to get rid of the paint. But the link posted seems like a good way to restore a bolt....

[DHPmike]

One more idea....

If you have rusty bolts its hard to get all the rust off. I use pool acid.

its available at home depot for 7 bucks a gallon. let the bolts sit in some laquer thinner first to get the grease off then the acid for half an hour.

Then paint accordingly.

This method also works on any hot rolled steel. You know that dark coating on the surface? its called mill scale, and the acid gets it right off. I use a plastic small tub to keep it in and plastic coat hangars to hold parts dangling down in it. This acid (muratic) also eats galvanize off bolts and nuts very fast. this comes in handy when welding bolts or nuts.

Im one of those peeps that likes all the hardware to have washers and for all hardware to match. I like to use all steel locknuts and internal tooth lockwashers when theres a blind hole. I also like allen head (socket head) or button head stainless on a top notch project.


the tumbler or vibrator idea is great too. Im thinking of making one for my work. We cut alot of small parts on the CNC plasma and tumbling them would make clean up easier.

[Sub-versive]

Originally Posted by DHPmike

One more idea....

If you have rusty bolts its hard to get all the rust off. I use pool acid.

its available at home depot for 7 bucks a gallon. let the bolts sit in some laquer thinner first to get the grease off then the acid for half an hour.

Then paint accordingly.

This method also works on any hot rolled steel. You know that dark coating on the surface? its called mill scale, and the acid gets it right off. I use a plastic small tub to keep it in and plastic coat hangars to hold parts dangling down in it. This acid (muratic) also eats galvanize off bolts and nuts very fast. this comes in handy when welding bolts or nuts.

Im one of those peeps that likes all the hardware to have washers and for all hardware to match. I like to use all steel locknuts and internal tooth lockwashers when theres a blind hole. I also like allen head (socket head) or button head stainless on a top notch project.


the tumbler or vibrator idea is great too. Im thinking of making one for my work. We cut alot of small parts on the CNC plasma and tumbling them would make clean up easier.

This needs a
WARNING!


The reaction of hydrochloric acid with most metals will produce hydrogen, an explosive and flammable gas.

http://www.ahi-supply.com/acid1.pdf




In any other case:
Use of muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid) is very dangerous! It is a eye, skin and inhalation hazard! Use acid rated gloves, goggle/good eye protection and at least a half-mask respirator with organic compound filters. Breathing in the fumes of the acid alone is dangerous and it's worse when it reacts with other compounds. Also it's very important to wash any items in a neutralizing solution of water and baking soda.

[Sub-versive]

Let me reiterate this point, please DO NOT use muriatic acid to clean nuts and bolts!

WARNING!


Unusual Fire and Explosion Hazards: This product is corrosive, and presents a
significant inhalation and contact hazard to fire-fighters. This product will not
decompose at temperatures below 1500ºC (2730ºF). Thermal oxidative
decomposition produces toxic chlorine fumes and explosive hydrogen gas. Reacts
with active metals (potassium, sodium, calcium, powdered aluminum, zinc,
magnesium) to produce flammable hydrogen gas which can form explosive mixtures.
May also form hydrogen chloride, and acid vapors. Explosive concentrations of
hydrogen may accumulate inside metal equipment.

http://www.hillbrothers.com/msds/pdf...loric-acid.pdf

[DHPmike]

The muriatic acid sold as pool chemicals has added chemicals to make it safer for home use. I use in a well ventilated area and always use protection.

[DHPmike]

I also have a question on the oxide kit. on the website theres several options. what does the kit cost that comes with everything you need to do this?

Or can you just buy the oxide and specialty items from them and get the acid yourself? I mean whats the cheapest way to get this kit?

Im thinking of adding this as an option for bolts in my kits... thanks!

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by DHPmike

I also have a question on the oxide kit. on the website theres several options. what does the kit cost that comes with everything you need to do this?

Or can you just buy the oxide and specialty items from them and get the acid yourself? I mean whats the cheapest way to get this kit?

Im thinking of adding this as an option for bolts in my kits... thanks!

I just added up the 1.25 gallon kit. It comes with a quart of the oxide chemical and 2 quarts of the sealer. It is a little cheaper than buying them seperately.

I just buy a quart of the black oxide and a quart of the sealer. If you don't use the sealer the bolts will rust in 6-12 months.

[DHPmike]

thats what im asking...

so thats all you need is the oxide and sealer? Im guessing you acid the bolts then do the other process? or is there a primer?

I think I get it. probably get the 1.25 kit. cool thanks!

[suville]

Not to mention using acid also creates a condition called "Hydrogen embrittlement" and the parts will need to be "Baked" at around 400* for an hour if I recall, I spent a few years working in a "plating" facility and we did mil spec plating of aircraft parts and this was a required procedure so any bolts or fasteners of any suitable grade 5-8 or such be careful with the acid cleaning as you will significantly weaken the fasteners and they will fail. This will not be much of an issue on fender bolts and such but just to be on the safe side something to consider. I would think that Caswell techs might be able to advise further. Be safe guys!

[chrismoore701]

there are 2 sealers you can use for this kit, the penetraiting sealer that comes with it that is oily or the caswell sealer that is not, they do the same thing, is that correct, except one is oily and one is not. Is this correct. I am trying to get back in the garage to sandblast everything, I have my wifes birthday today and pretty sure I have to stay in tonight

[Thealien]

I have only used the penetrating sealer. I don't even see or know about another one? I dip the parts/bolts in the sealer and then let them dry. I also have a sprayer that I sometimes use. In a day or so I wipe them down and to me they didn't seem oily to the touch.

Good luck, let us know how everything comes out.

So what are you goint to black oxide the wife for her birthday?