Help me with my carb (iknow iknow) lol

[63deluxfleet]

well now that i have to have my truck as a daily driver, i have noticed she needs some fine tuning. this is my first experience with a carberated motor. so i have a question. how come in the morning when i want to start the truck, i have to take the air cleaner off and flip this flap over? it wont start unless it flipped. is something making it stick or is it hooked up wrong? after i do that it runs fine all day. idk much about carbs but im willing to learn so any help is appreciated.. also what is the function of this rod?? it seems like it has no use. thanks in advance

[xratt]

The lower rod on the side of the carb. I believe is for the transmission kick down. Kicks in passing gear. Theupper rod is hooked to the gas pedal.

And the flap inside the carb. is called the choke. Mine is manual, pulled by a cable mounted on the dash. More modern ones have and electric choke setup. I'm lucky, in Florida I dont even need a choke.

[markeb01]

It's not clear from the photo what flap you are referring to. It would help if you could take a picture more from the side in both positions (before and after flipping), and touch the specific part with a pencil so it's clear which piece is the problem. I have the owners manual and several tech articles on this carb that might prove helpful. Following is what mine looks like in the "choke off" position. Also, does yours have a manual or electric choke?

[63deluxfleet]

i mean the flap that is closed over the secondarys it is closed in that pic.. i dont think it is electronic i dont see any wires or plastic casing to show its electric.

[markeb01]

My earlier post relates to the linkage on the drivers side of the carb. If the flap you are referring to is what is circled below, that is actually the choke plate. If you have an electric choke, there is a black bakelite thermostat housing on the passenger side which rotates to adjust the setting. If it is manual, there should be a cable on the passenger side to control position of the plate.

URL=http://img341.imageshack.us/i/chokex.jpg/][/URL]

This is what the manual choke cable connection looks like:



Actually the secondaries are in the rear, closer to the firewall. The choke resides over the primaries.

[63deluxfleet]

niicee!! thats just like mine, i gotta figure a way to hook it up. i have a stock choke cable installed but never connected. it is very long compared to the distance the carb sits now. can i get a look at you cable setup? thanks in advance

[markeb01]

Here's another shot of the cable and connection.

URL=http://img193.imageshack.us/i/choke03.jpg/][/URL]

[63deluxfleet]

thanks! first project on my list tomorrow! also i would like to thank you for the help on my heater. i think i might have to buy a new junction box. the female connector is broken, along with the plastic backing.

[AnlaufJohn]

Great information on carbs. Now, does anyone have information of the 2 barrel carbs on the 283 motors? My manual choke is still causing me fits.
I asked earlier how to lube it (on another thread). The suggestion was to remove it.
No way in Hades could I get that cable out of the dash. Locked in tight, and the cable pulls hard, and seems like dragging through gravel. Not good.

Then, once it sets, and I get it on the road, I push the cable in-close to the same effort needed to close. But, wait for it, the choke cable is so rough, the cable housing moves and the choke plate stays closed.

This morning, nice and cold, right around 27 F degrees. Pull on choke and start truck. Seems like it is loading up, flooding, So, I push the choke knob in and go back to clearing my window of the frost.

Meet my wife for breakfast, and I stop the engine and it over-runs. What?
Pull the air cleaner and there it is- proof that the cable action in the cab does not want to move the plate at the engine.

I like the engine and manual choke set up, but there has to be a better way.

AnlaufJohn
Springfield, Oregon
One city East of the University of Oregon Ducks.
Rose Bowl bound!!!!!!!!

[Rich 5150 69]

You probably need a new choke cable assembly which you can buy thru LMC, it needs to be bolted down (the cable outer casing) to the carb and the choke wire hooked to the carb choke arm for proper operation. Look at Markebo1 pics you`ll see what I mean...

[Vernski]

Anlaufjohn you have two choices and either way you will have to take the cable out of the truck. there is a 1/2" nut on the back side of the dash. You may have to stand on your head to get at the nut. You should be able to reach under and feel the nut. When you get it out you'll have to pull it out of the firewall when you have it out it may have a Z bend in the wire straighten it out then pull it out of the housing if it's stuck let it soak in kroil for as long as you can it should free up. If not go to your local auto parts and buy a new one. Then reverse the process.

Markb seen your truck in classic trucks mag, that's real cool nice short write up
about your truck's history. hope this help's you with your choke john.---
Vernski

[AnlaufJohn]

Thank you Vernski for the advice on finding the nut behind the dash bezel.

Guess what? No such nut. And I took some time just now to take some pictures, but golly, 27F degrees is a bit too cool for me to mess around right now.

I ordered a new cable from Jegs on Friday and I should see it on Thursday. Since this will never be a trailer queen or show truck, I will route the cable so there is a nearly straight and level pull to engage the choke. The OEM routing is so snake-like that I wonder if they worked correctly from day 1.
Knob, through bezel, go 2-3 inches and bend 90 degrees right and go 15-18 inches and bend 90 degrees again, this time left. Oh, don't forget about rising about 3 inches or so. Through the firewall and then it dives down to go under the air cleaner housing and back up to the carburetor.

That's 4 turns it has to make to work. Someone didn't really like the choke cable to get mixed up with the heater controls, I guess.

I will take some pictures tomorrow when the sky is clear, cold and sunny.

AnlaufJohn

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by AnlaufJohn

Thank you Vernski for the advice on finding the nut behind the dash bezel.

Guess what? No such nut. And I took some time just now to take some pictures, but golly, 27F degrees is a bit too cool for me to mess around right now.

I ordered a new cable from Jegs on Friday and I should see it on Thursday. Since this will never be a trailer queen or show truck, I will route the cable so there is a nearly straight and level pull to engage the choke. The OEM routing is so snake-like that I wonder if they worked correctly from day 1.
Knob, through bezel, go 2-3 inches and bend 90 degrees right and go 15-18 inches and bend 90 degrees again, this time left. Oh, don't forget about rising about 3 inches or so. Through the firewall and then it dives down to go under the air cleaner housing and back up to the carburetor.

That's 4 turns it has to make to work. Someone didn't really like the choke cable to get mixed up with the heater controls, I guess.

I will take some pictures tomorrow when the sky is clear, cold and sunny.

AnlaufJohn

It's odd that it don't have a nut on the inside of the dash, but mine is a GMC so that may be the difference on a Chev they may have a clip to hold it in place. Yeah the cable should be relitivley straight without any sharp bends. Good luck in getting it out you may have to cut it and drill the bezel out as Markb said but I hope it's not that much work and comes loose easely---Vernski.

[markeb01]

One of the problems with an old choke, heater or vent cable – although they look solid, they are not. It’s just a tightly wound spring around an inner wire. They collect crud and rust, and where they flex, more crud and rust is allowed in. Sometimes you can get lucky and soak the cable assembly in place. Put an old towel or rags behind the cable housing, and spray thoroughly with WD40 and work it in an out of the jacket. This may take multiple treatments. Another problem is careless handling which kinks either the wire inside, or the spring wire jacket. Both increase friction, sometimes to the point the cable cannot be operated.

If it’s so badly rusted it cannot be salvaged, the easiest solution may be to cut the cable short enough that a socket can be placed over the retaining nut on the back of the dash. If the retaining nut still cannot be removed, the only remaining answer is to drill the bezel to the size of the dash hole until there is nothing left to hold it in place.

Any of the aftermarket suppliers can provide an original style cable assembly, or you can get a universal model from any local parts store and just change the knob. Here’s an example of the factory replacement style, and the universal type:

http://www.classicparts.com/1960-63-...info/29%2D263/
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...121_0254136713

[Muleman100]

I had a hard time fulling the choke cable out on my 66 Burb.Relaced the cable and it is still hard to pull. I changed the carb return spring to a weaker spring and now it pulls out easier.

[AnlaufJohn]

Well, the mild weather has returned. Last week was cold, 13-19 degrees. Work kept plugging away, broken pipes and all. What can I say, I like the wet more than the cold.

The Jegs cable will work just fine. As I said, this will be a daily driver, and it will be driven by me.

The choke cable will be mounted under the Thrift Air heater knob. Yes, on the right side of the steering wheel. That way it will be a straight pull to engage the choke.

Another note: the choke cable is a simple push-pull cable. A co-worker mentioned this to me as I explained my modification. He said a lawnmower throttle cable would serve the same purpose.

$4.00 at the local lawn & garden shop. A lot less $$. I already bought the Jegs, so its going in. But, if it ever breaks, then I know of another solution for me.

AnlaufJohn
Springfield, Oregon

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by AnlaufJohn

Well, the mild weather has returned. Last week was cold, 13-19 degrees. Work kept plugging away, broken pipes and all. What can I say, I like the wet more than the cold.

The Jegs cable will work just fine. As I said, this will be a daily driver, and it will be driven by me.

The choke cable will be mounted under the Thrift Air heater knob. Yes, on the right side of the steering wheel. That way it will be a straight pull to engage the choke.

Another note: the choke cable is a simple push-pull cable. A co-worker mentioned this to me as I explained my modification. He said a lawnmower throttle cable would serve the same purpose.

$4.00 at the local lawn & garden shop. A lot less $$. I already bought the Jegs, so its going in. But, if it ever breaks, then I know of another solution for me.

AnlaufJohn
Springfield, Oregon

Hi John glad it worked out for you, never thought of a lawn & garden shop. At the local NAPA the cables are $6-12 depends on if it's chrome or black so that was a good score. I'm still puzzeled how it was attached to the dash? Well I guess a lot of little things are different on these trucks so thats just how it goes. Have a good Xmas.---Vernski

[AnlaufJohn]

Well, the old cable is out of the dash and is laying on my workbench.

The method to remove it was to extract the inner wire from the wrapped wire sheath. Then, the mysterious nut was found. Under the knob, on the outside of the dash. Unscrewed it from the wire sheath, and now I have a hole to fill on the left side of the steering wheel.

All is well now.

Glad we had the chance to share our ideas about carbs and chokes.

AnlaufJohn
Springfield, Oregon