How tough is a complete frt end rebuild when lowering? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

one legged lance · 05-21-2002, 06:05 PM

Hello & Howdy All,
I am ready to lower my truck but since I am pretty sure the front end has never been worked on and it is abit loose I thought I might as well do a complete rebuild.
I have good mech skills and engines have never been a prob. but this will be my first front end. Anything I should be aware of? Should I just take this to a shop?? Hate to drop cash if I can do the work my self. Parts I can get wholesale and tools aren't a problem either I just want to know if there are any tricks or hints that can be offer by those who have gone before.
Thanks in advance,
1 Leg Lance

Alexis · 05-21-2002, 06:28 PM

WD-40 and alot of patience, front end are pretty simple. just somtime you get some parts that dont feel like coming off so good luck.

------------------
Britney: 1970 2wd K/5 Blazer (gots to go)
Jessica: 1967 2wd SWB (not yet decided on furture)
Helga: 1972 4x4 3/4ton LWB (going to go too)

AIM:Alexmart1
Mountain View, Cali

72futuresweet2wd · 05-21-2002, 06:39 PM

The biggest problem I had was the lower control arm bushings. Those damn things were tough as hell to replace. I had to take one of my headers off just to get to the bolts through the frame. And I used two pipe wrenches to loosen the bushing and it was not easy. But when it is done I believe it was worth it. It looks good low and handles alot better. I also went with the large sway bar from Early Classics. The only other thing that was tough was the rear spring cups where they go up through the frame I had to torch the bolts on both sides.

------------------
1972 2wd Blazer (Project)
1969 Chevy C10 (Driver) http://community.webshots.com/user/69chevytruck
2002 Chevy Trailblazer (Wifes)

Cheyenne Super · 05-21-2002, 06:40 PM

The most difficult thing I ran across was the cross shafts for the control arms. Mine stuck together pretty good. Pretty much it is a remove/install procedure. One thing to watch out for is the locating dowels and recesses in the lower control arm cross shafts. They are specific for each side

imaindianoutlaw · 05-21-2002, 06:55 PM

Ya same here I have never done any front suspension work but I plan on doing a complete replacement of a 71 c-10 front end onto I hope dev's 68 short frame it I can get it? And I want to spend GOOD money doing it right, Powder coating the whole nine yards!

------------------
Charles W. Hein
S. Williamsport PA

imaindianoutlaw@yahoo.com

REFRIGERATION TECH

1971 Rolling chassis

FOR SALE
1963 Pontiac Tempest
1965 Pontiac GTO {SOLD}
1956 Pontiac 2 dr complete for parts

Blue68 · 05-22-2002, 02:37 PM

Good advice from all so far. But I'd like to add my $1.25 to this. BE CAREFUL!!!! There are folks that might think I'm overly cautious, but when working with front suspension components, there are too many ways to get killed or maimed, and no one would like to lose a board member. It's not my intention to scare you off this effort, I've done about 4 rebuilds myself on these trucks with never had any problems.

Here are some tips not mentioned yet:

Ensure your jackstands are adequate and properly placed. Won't do to drop your truckon the floor.

When you break the upper ball joint loose, do so with the castle nut still in place, and the weight of the truck on your jack under the control arm spring pocket (the jack stands still in place as well).

Before removing the nuts for the spindles, I like to chain my springs to the cross shafts. You never know when your jack will have a o-ring failure (Hey, they rebuild the space shuttle before each flight and one failed there). I've heard tales where springs have come out of the pocket with enought force to fly across yards and streets. That's a lot of force.

The mechanics of the rebuild are VERY simple and like others stated, you just need patients (and LOTS of it). You will be glad you did it after you go to the alignment shop and drive it home afterwards. It'll be a whole new truck. I have never had much luck finding a lower ball joint press (c-clamp) for rent or to borrow, but we have a local shop that does all kinds of work for me if I just take in the parts CLEAN.

Enjoy.

------------------
'68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.

Way too much money and time..But it's a hobby.

busterwivell · 05-22-2002, 02:47 PM

I agree about the springs. I have a spring compressor and still use a chain. I just take the upper and lower control arms and cross shafts to the alignment shop, have them press out the old and press in the new bushings and ball joints. That makes it pretty quick. Got carried away with the chevelle though, with powder coating, converting to disc, new master and booster, and, and , and......wife wants to know if it's ever gonna leave the garage again.

------------------
56 Studebaker 2 dr Wagon
66 Chevelle 2 dr 4 speed
71 C30 Longhorn
86 Monte Carlo SS
96 Tahoe

junkyardjohn · 05-22-2002, 03:31 PM

I'M REPLACING THE FRONT END IN A 72 BLAZER WITH A 2WD 72 TRUCK FRONT ASSY. I'VE DISASSEMBLED EVERYTHING, & JUST GOT IT BACK FROM THE POWDERCOATERS. EVERYTHING IS PRETTY SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND. THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SHAFTS ARE A REAL B!TCH TO GET LOOSE, BUT A LITTLE HEAT & ALOT OF MUSCLE GET THE JOB DONE. I BOUGHT A BALL JOINT PRESS AT HARBOR FREIGHT FOR $29 (CHEAPIE)& IT POPPED EM RIGHT OUT. I HATE PAYING PEOPLE TO DO THINGS THAT I CAN DO. I'M REPLACING EVERYTHING (UPPER &LOWER BALL JOINTS, U/L CONTROL ARM SHAFTS,DROP SPRINGS, ALL TIE ROD ENDS,BEARINGS & IDLER ARM.TOTAL COST AROUND $250 INCLUDING POWDERCOATING.

------------------
junkyardjohn
http://community.webshots.com/user/junkyardjohn

**COBALT** · 05-23-2002, 06:35 PM

junkyardjohn: you mean that big "C" clamp press (red) that's welded together with the big screw? I got one of those at Harbor Freight and stripped the nut out trying to get my U-joints out! Piece of crap if you ask me.

I'm looking into doing this too. I've never done a rebuild before, but I know where to come for help. I'll be bugging all of you so get ready...

------------------
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!

*Zkast* · 05-23-2002, 08:14 PM

Here's a pic of OTC's ball joint press kit. Also does u-joints and whatever you can think up. I've used this in the automotive field for about 8 years now and have never broken/stripped/destroyed this thing yet. There are cheaper brands out there but why take the chance??? http://www.ntxtools.com/manufacturers/otc/otc7249-1.gif

Find a local tool supplier that cares OTC, you'll find every tool you can imagine for doing front end work. There's a tool for everything anymore lol.

Please be careful with those coil springs!

------------------
Pictures and more...
piston@zkast.com
'71 LWB
350/350T, PS/PB
Special options? Yes, RUST... Need some?
------------------------------------------
Webmaster/Team owner
www.zkast.com
Garrett - Olathe, Kansas

05-21-2002, 06:05 PM	#1
one legged lance Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Phx,Az USA Posts: 67	How tough is a complete frt end rebuild when lowering? Hello & Howdy All, I am ready to lower my truck but since I am pretty sure the front end has never been worked on and it is abit loose I thought I might as well do a complete rebuild. I have good mech skills and engines have never been a prob. but this will be my first front end. Anything I should be aware of? Should I just take this to a shop?? Hate to drop cash if I can do the work my self. Parts I can get wholesale and tools aren't a problem either I just want to know if there are any tricks or hints that can be offer by those who have gone before. Thanks in advance, 1 Leg Lance

05-21-2002, 06:39 PM	#3
72futuresweet2wd The face of my 69 c10 Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Central Indiana Posts: 171	The biggest problem I had was the lower control arm bushings. Those damn things were tough as hell to replace. I had to take one of my headers off just to get to the bolts through the frame. And I used two pipe wrenches to loosen the bushing and it was not easy. But when it is done I believe it was worth it. It looks good low and handles alot better. I also went with the large sway bar from Early Classics. The only other thing that was tough was the rear spring cups where they go up through the frame I had to torch the bolts on both sides. ------------------ 1972 2wd Blazer (Project) 1969 Chevy C10 (Driver) http://community.webshots.com/user/69chevytruck 2002 Chevy Trailblazer (Wifes) __________________ 2002 Harley Davidson VRod 1972 2wd Blazer (Project) 1969 Chevy C10 (Driver) 2002 Chevy Trailblazer (Wifes)

05-21-2002, 06:40 PM	#4
Cheyenne Super Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Efland, NC Posts: 303	The most difficult thing I ran across was the cross shafts for the control arms. Mine stuck together pretty good. Pretty much it is a remove/install procedure. One thing to watch out for is the locating dowels and recesses in the lower control arm cross shafts. They are specific for each side __________________ 1971 Cheyenne Super Soon to be converted to '68 front clip. Efland, NC

05-21-2002, 06:55 PM	#5
imaindianoutlaw GMC SHORT FLEET F/S Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: SOUTH WILLIAMSPORT PENNSYLVANNIA Posts: 2,117	Ya same here I have never done any front suspension work but I plan on doing a complete replacement of a 71 c-10 front end onto I hope dev's 68 short frame it I can get it? And I want to spend GOOD money doing it right, Powder coating the whole nine yards! ------------------ Charles W. Hein S. Williamsport PA imaindianoutlaw@yahoo.com REFRIGERATION TECH 1971 Rolling chassis FOR SALE 1963 Pontiac Tempest 1965 Pontiac GTO {SOLD} 1956 Pontiac 2 dr complete for parts __________________ CHARLES WADE HEIN HVACR FOREMAN. LEWISBURG U.S.P.

05-22-2002, 02:37 PM	#6
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	Good advice from all so far. But I'd like to add my $1.25 to this. BE CAREFUL!!!! There are folks that might think I'm overly cautious, but when working with front suspension components, there are too many ways to get killed or maimed, and no one would like to lose a board member. It's not my intention to scare you off this effort, I've done about 4 rebuilds myself on these trucks with never had any problems. Here are some tips not mentioned yet: Ensure your jackstands are adequate and properly placed. Won't do to drop your truckon the floor. When you break the upper ball joint loose, do so with the castle nut still in place, and the weight of the truck on your jack under the control arm spring pocket (the jack stands still in place as well). Before removing the nuts for the spindles, I like to chain my springs to the cross shafts. You never know when your jack will have a o-ring failure (Hey, they rebuild the space shuttle before each flight and one failed there). I've heard tales where springs have come out of the pocket with enought force to fly across yards and streets. That's a lot of force. The mechanics of the rebuild are VERY simple and like others stated, you just need patients (and LOTS of it). You will be glad you did it after you go to the alignment shop and drive it home afterwards. It'll be a whole new truck. I have never had much luck finding a lower ball joint press (c-clamp) for rent or to borrow, but we have a local shop that does all kinds of work for me if I just take in the parts CLEAN. Enjoy. ------------------ '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. Way too much money and time..But it's a hobby. __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.

05-21-2002, 06:28 PM	#2
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	WD-40 and alot of patience, front end are pretty simple. just somtime you get some parts that dont feel like coming off so good luck. ------------------ Britney: 1970 2wd K/5 Blazer (gots to go) Jessica: 1967 2wd SWB (not yet decided on furture) Helga: 1972 4x4 3/4ton LWB (going to go too) AIM:Alexmart1 Mountain View, Cali

05-22-2002, 02:47 PM	#7
busterwivell Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA Posts: 2,033	I agree about the springs. I have a spring compressor and still use a chain. I just take the upper and lower control arms and cross shafts to the alignment shop, have them press out the old and press in the new bushings and ball joints. That makes it pretty quick. Got carried away with the chevelle though, with powder coating, converting to disc, new master and booster, and, and , and......wife wants to know if it's ever gonna leave the garage again. ------------------ 56 Studebaker 2 dr Wagon 66 Chevelle 2 dr 4 speed 71 C30 Longhorn 86 Monte Carlo SS 96 Tahoe __________________ Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com

05-22-2002, 03:31 PM	#8
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,425	I'M REPLACING THE FRONT END IN A 72 BLAZER WITH A 2WD 72 TRUCK FRONT ASSY. I'VE DISASSEMBLED EVERYTHING, & JUST GOT IT BACK FROM THE POWDERCOATERS. EVERYTHING IS PRETTY SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND. THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SHAFTS ARE A REAL B!TCH TO GET LOOSE, BUT A LITTLE HEAT & ALOT OF MUSCLE GET THE JOB DONE. I BOUGHT A BALL JOINT PRESS AT HARBOR FREIGHT FOR $29 (CHEAPIE)& IT POPPED EM RIGHT OUT. I HATE PAYING PEOPLE TO DO THINGS THAT I CAN DO. I'M REPLACING EVERYTHING (UPPER &LOWER BALL JOINTS, U/L CONTROL ARM SHAFTS,DROP SPRINGS, ALL TIE ROD ENDS,BEARINGS & IDLER ARM.TOTAL COST AROUND $250 INCLUDING POWDERCOATING. ------------------ junkyardjohn http://community.webshots.com/user/junkyardjohn __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

05-23-2002, 06:35 PM	#9
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	junkyardjohn: you mean that big "C" clamp press (red) that's welded together with the big screw? I got one of those at Harbor Freight and stripped the nut out trying to get my U-joints out! Piece of crap if you ask me. I'm looking into doing this too. I've never done a rebuild before, but I know where to come for help. I'll be bugging all of you so get ready... ------------------ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed! '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast). Seattle, WA. *See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com! __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

05-23-2002, 08:14 PM	#10
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	Here's a pic of OTC's ball joint press kit. Also does u-joints and whatever you can think up. I've used this in the automotive field for about 8 years now and have never broken/stripped/destroyed this thing yet. There are cheaper brands out there but why take the chance??? http://www.ntxtools.com/manufacturers/otc/otc7249-1.gif Find a local tool supplier that cares OTC, you'll find every tool you can imagine for doing front end work. There's a tool for everything anymore lol. Please be careful with those coil springs! ------------------ Pictures and more... piston@zkast.com '71 LWB 350/350T, PS/PB Special options? Yes, RUST... Need some? ------------------------------------------ Webmaster/Team owner www.zkast.com Garrett - Olathe, Kansas



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.