Upper A-arm studs... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

KrazyKevin · 12-16-2009, 07:47 AM

After taking the front end apart, I got to the upper A arms. There are two studs per side. They appear to be pressed into the frame. 3 of the 4 are solid. But the front bolt on the drivers side has some play in it. It doesn't spin in the hole. I was able to take the nut off without it spinning. But, since some of the shims had came out of place, there wasn't alot of tension on it. So, should I worry about this? Or will it tighten up when I reinstall everything? It is not wollered(sp?)out, just has a lil wiggle to it.

Lastly, and excuse my ignorance for not knowing exactly what to call this, but the big nuts that cap the end of each upper and lower A arm pins? The threads on the inside that actually screw onto the bar/pin are fine. But the outter threads that screw into the actual A arm themselves seem shallow. They almost seem gaulded, but all eight of them are the same way. I cleaned the threads best I could before unscrewing them. Is this how they look? Or, are mine screwed? Sorry for the pun, but its late.

Thanks guys

Kevin

Wrenchbender Ret · 12-16-2009, 01:28 PM

Usually if a bolt is loose in the crossmember it will turn. You can use it this way but it makes it hard to do an alignment if it turns.
Those treads are shallow. They usually tighten down good but if not I have welded the cap to the arm. Keep the shaft in the center as you tighten the caps & make shure it is centered before you put it on.

1968SWBBigBlock · 12-16-2009, 04:23 PM

I would go ahead and repalce them, ECE carries them in stock

71tahoe · 12-16-2009, 05:34 PM

It was probably more like there wasn't as much tension on it so some of the shims came out. The new one you replace it with might be loose too if the hole is elongated. I don't really have a new suggestion for a solution, just that new studs might not solve the problem.

57larry · 12-16-2009, 08:20 PM

would it be better to swap in newer A arms like from a 84?

KrazyKevin · 12-16-2009, 08:23 PM

If the hole is elongated, what the next option, weld the hole up and redrill or tack/weld the stud in place?

12-16-2009, 07:47 AM	#1
KrazyKevin What have I gotten into Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Liberty, TX Posts: 123	Upper A-arm studs... After taking the front end apart, I got to the upper A arms. There are two studs per side. They appear to be pressed into the frame. 3 of the 4 are solid. But the front bolt on the drivers side has some play in it. It doesn't spin in the hole. I was able to take the nut off without it spinning. But, since some of the shims had came out of place, there wasn't alot of tension on it. So, should I worry about this? Or will it tighten up when I reinstall everything? It is not wollered(sp?)out, just has a lil wiggle to it. Lastly, and excuse my ignorance for not knowing exactly what to call this, but the big nuts that cap the end of each upper and lower A arm pins? The threads on the inside that actually screw onto the bar/pin are fine. But the outter threads that screw into the actual A arm themselves seem shallow. They almost seem gaulded, but all eight of them are the same way. I cleaned the threads best I could before unscrewing them. Is this how they look? Or, are mine screwed? Sorry for the pun, but its late. Thanks guys Kevin __________________ 1972 Chevy SWB Fleetside Project BumbleBee

12-16-2009, 01:28 PM	#2
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,228	Re: Upper A-arm studs... Usually if a bolt is loose in the crossmember it will turn. You can use it this way but it makes it hard to do an alignment if it turns. Those treads are shallow. They usually tighten down good but if not I have welded the cap to the arm. Keep the shaft in the center as you tighten the caps & make shure it is centered before you put it on.

12-16-2009, 04:23 PM	#3
1968SWBBigBlock Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,643	Re: Upper A-arm studs... I would go ahead and repalce them, ECE carries them in stock __________________ 1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree

12-16-2009, 05:34 PM	#4
71tahoe Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Jonesboro, AR Posts: 916	Re: Upper A-arm studs... It was probably more like there wasn't as much tension on it so some of the shims came out. The new one you replace it with might be loose too if the hole is elongated. I don't really have a new suggestion for a solution, just that new studs might not solve the problem.

12-16-2009, 08:20 PM	#5
57larry Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 1,161	Re: Upper A-arm studs... would it be better to swap in newer A arms like from a 84?

12-16-2009, 08:23 PM	#6
KrazyKevin What have I gotten into Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Liberty, TX Posts: 123	Re: Upper A-arm studs... If the hole is elongated, what the next option, weld the hole up and redrill or tack/weld the stud in place? __________________ 1972 Chevy SWB Fleetside Project BumbleBee



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