rust removal by electrolysis

[bubba327]

Found this website that uses common house hold soap and a battery charger for rust removal . Any body ever tried it? Site claims it to be environmentally safe and easy and cheap..
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

[Ilike 72"s]

Yes. I use it allot.

[Ilike 72"s]

A 69 camaro hood that was laying on the ground for years. Made a wooden box big enough. Soaked it over night and just pressure washed, treated the metal and painted.

[Captainfab]

Ha! I didn't know that electrolysis of H2O would remove rust from steel. I wonder if the electrolyte can contaminate the metal causing adhesion problems for the paint?

[Bartonius]

I never would of thought of that, I will be trying that ASAP.

[Ilike 72"s]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Ha! I didn't know that electrolysis of H2O would remove rust from steel. I wonder if the electrolyte can contaminate the metal causing adhesion problems for the paint?

Thats why I pressure washed it, then used the metal prep, followed by epoxy primer.

[aggie91]

I may have to try this...

[akubovic]

I will be giving that a shot first thing this spring. When the temperature stays above freezing.

[jonzcustomshop]

now we just need a box big enough to fit a whole 60-66 cab in!

[BIGPIMP]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

now we just need a box big enough to fit a whole 60-66 cab in!

now that's funny ,but true

[1962k20]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

now we just need a box big enough to fit a whole 60-66 cab in!

Guess I got an excuse ot get an inground pool!

[chevytrucknut]

Kiddie swimming pools work well and the left over water is great for your lawn.

[LILRED66]

Great info...thanks for sharing.

[monolith]

I have a question: Will paint act as a resist, or does the electrolysis act under the paint?

[Ilike 72"s]

Originally Posted by monolith

I have a question: Will paint act as a resist, or does the electrolysis act under the paint?

If the paint is in poor condition and thin like the bottom of my hood post above, then it will work. Otherwise, no the metal needs to react with the charged solution and (detach)lift off of the base metal.
Be creative with your anodes because the currant travels (kinda) in the line of site.
Dennis

[Muleman100]

I am glad to see actual proof of woking on larger parts. The demos I have seen have been on small parts. Good info, I will have to try this process.

[63sbssbbw]

But where to find a charger these days that doesn;t have the short out safety built into it,I tried it with a new one and I figured that's why it didn't work
Also I have read 2 amps maximum and on another write up I read 6-10 amps??
T

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by 63sbssbbw

But where to find a charger these days that doesn;t have the short out safety built into it,I tried it with a new one and I figured that's why it didn't work
Also I have read 2 amps maximum and on another write up I read 6-10 amps??
T

as long as you don't place the charger's clamps in the solution the system shouldn't "short out", it draws what it "needs" I guess, limited by the resistance of the curcuit. I've never had my variable charger (which is an older model, admittedly) indicate more than 4 or 5 amps, often it "runs" at around 2 amps (this seems to be directly related to how clean the anodes are (the rust that comes off the part accumulates on the positive side of the curcuit), keep the rebar or whatever cleaned off and the system will apparently be more efficient).

I, too, have read conflicting discussions as to the amps needed, I just let my battery charger decide.

[63sbssbbw]

Thanks Larry
I'm going to give it another try
T

[Ilike 72"s]

Clamps can be in the water. Wont short out, but they will corrode over time. I use a pair of vice grips and clamp to the part. leave part of the handle stick out of the water and clamp your charger to that. Just dont let your part that your derusting touch the anode steel or it will piss off your charger and your wallet.

[bluesfella]

I did this with a set of cast iron exhaust manifolds recently, turned out great! One trick is to have multiple anodes all wired up together surrounding the part. That takes care of the "line of sight" issue by having multiple lines of sight! Similar to what this guy did.

I let my charger run at the minimum setting, 2 amps, and it worked fine.

[Muleman100]

Maybe someone can help me with what went wrong. I am using a 25 gallon vinyl cotainer. Made 4 electrodes out of rebar, cleaned them and placed them around the inside of the barrel. Used washing soda, 1/2 cup per 5 gallons. Connected all my electrodes in series with wire. Lowered the hood springs careful not to touch the electrodes or bottom of barrel. Hooked up the pos to the electrodes and neg to the hood spring and turned on the charger. I read where I should see bubbles forming on the hood spring, well that did not happen. I could not visibly see any action on the part. Is my charger set at 12volts at 15 amps too small for my 25 gallon tank? Or did I do something wrong?

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by Muleman100

Maybe someone can help me with what went wrong. I am using a 25 gallon vinyl cotainer. Made 4 electrodes out of rebar, cleaned them and placed them around the inside of the barrel. Used washing soda, 1/2 cup per 5 gallons. Connected all my electrodes in series with wire. Lowered the hood springs careful not to touch the electrodes or bottom of barrel. Hooked up the pos to the electrodes and neg to the hood spring and turned on the charger. I read where I should see bubbles forming on the hood spring, well that did not happen. I could not visibly see any action on the part. Is my charger set at 12volts at 15 amps too small for my 25 gallon tank? Or did I do something wrong?

Muleman, first, did the charger indicate any current flow, if not, then one of your connections (most likely the one at the spring) isn't good. If the charger did show a current flow, was the alligator clip in the solution? If it was, then the path of least resistance would be from the clip to the rebar, not through the spring. I clean a small spot on my parts where they will connect so the rust or paint won't inhibit the current flow. I also do not put the battery charger clamp in the solution: actually I don't even put the entire part in the solution, leaving the electrical connection site above the electrolyte so the current has to pass through the part.

Your battery charger is definitely big enough, you only need a couple of amps for this to work

[tkeduk8r]

I use an old Hobart TIG/AC/DC welder as a power supply in my 55 gallon plastic barrell... Works very well and you can adjust the current to whatever works best for you... I like 8 amps personally, and have done many parts ove rthe years...love it!!!
--Mike

[92gmc]

Great info - Thanks