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05-25-2002, 04:35 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 23
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What the heck is up with my timing????
I put my engine all back together yesterday and i went to time the engine. I got #1 to TDC and installed the distributor so the rotor would be near dead on #1 on the distributor cap. Sure enough, it fired up and ran fine. Then I got out the timing light to get it to 6 degrees BTDC, but the timing mark is out by about 180 degrees. What could be wrong, I had the vaccuum advance plugged off, I don't know what could be wrong. The truck runs just as good as it did before, so do I leave it? Is the distributor out by a tooth? Also, the distributor cap itself is sitting roughly in the same position as it was before. Is it possible the timing marks are on the wrong side of the block?
Thanks Bandit |
05-25-2002, 04:51 PM | #2 |
Truck Farmer
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lake Havasu City, Arizona
Posts: 1,192
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Not sure how far you had your motor apart, but when you have number one on compression stroke the mark on balancer should be up by the marker at zero. If it is 180 out it should not start, as that would be on exhaust stroke, maybe balancer slipped, or your mistaken some how? If its running you must have it right. Do you have the light on the correct plug wire, saw a guy once try to time his motor on number two wire by mistake.
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05-25-2002, 05:50 PM | #3 |
huh?
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Washington, Illinois
Posts: 5,690
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The cam could be 180° off. I've seen it done, in fact, I owned an engine that was like this. They'll run, but I'd recommend checking it out, and seeing if that's the case, so you can correct it.
TJ
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Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay |
05-25-2002, 05:56 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 23
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As far a putting the engine back together, all I did was install an intake manifold, carburator, and headers, so I guess I did stretch the truth a little! As long as #1 is still the front driver side cylinder on a 350, I've got it right. Another thought, could I be getting interference from the #3 wire? How can all this be if when I had it to the zero degree mark on #1 compression, install distributor, engine starts, timing mark is showing as firing on the passenger side of the block?
Please help me, am I doing something wrong here??? If the cam is 180 degrees off, other than the timing marks, what other symptoms would there be? like rough idle, backfire, I'm confused?!? Bandit [This message has been edited by Bandit (edited May 25, 2002).] |
05-25-2002, 06:13 PM | #5 |
Teufelhunden
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Camp Pendelton Ca
Posts: 572
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not trying to sound like a know it all but do this, have a friend hold his finger over #1 piston while you turn the motor over, stop when you know you are at TDC compression, just looking at the line on the balancer is not enough cause there is 2 tdc's. drop in distributor, make a mark where rotor is pointing, mark it on the firewall, intake, whatever it may be, put cap on and line it up so your a little advanced. then time it with your light. hope this helps...
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1971 K10 lwb fleetside 402 T350 205 |
05-25-2002, 06:36 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: rock island,il,usa
Posts: 5,382
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If it runs ok, my guess is that the balancer ring slipped,or it has the wrong balancer on it. some of the 305s time at the top(you have to look straight down between the chain cover & the waterpump. The only other thought has been mentioned......I have clipped the pickup on the wrong wire........69longhorn.
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05-25-2002, 08:29 PM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,597
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Are you sure the timing mark is 180 degrees out? If it is, it would be facing below the fuel pump when the strobe fires. Is it marked really well, like with some white chalk? Maybe your problem is you're advanced big-time due to getting the distributor gear off by one tooth. The engine will idle great with even a ton of advance, although starting might be hard. One more thing -- could the woodruff key on the crank nose have sheared off, allowing the balancer to spin? I'd be very interested in hearing how this turns out. Please let me know.
------------------ MikeB 69 C-10 Fleetside, mild 383, Dart Iron Eagle heads, Crane Energizer 266 cam and 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm carb, HEI w/ MSD components, 1986 front spindles/disc brakes, Vintage Air in-dash.
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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