Has anyone put a Auto Hatch Release on a Clam Shell

[Burb]

I just reviewed the older section on shocks for a clam shell lift gate in the FAQ section, great info by the way Hart Rod ... always wanted to do it but never took that first step.
But to take it one step forward ... has anyone ever tryied putting an automatic release for the hatch.
Is it possible to use the lifting power of the shocks or would you have to add some type of pusher or maybe a stronger shock setup?


________
Rick

[Longhorn Man]

that would be a cool idea, remove the handle all together on the hatch.
If the struts can't push it up from closed, you could always use some poppers like the guys with shaved door handles used.

[gemiii]

I wanted to post this to HartRods post but it is locked up. I ordered those struts from Amazon for $18.78 each with free shipping and they gave $5 back so the total was $32.56. I havent gotten the ball studs yet so they are not installed. Anybody know the size of those ballstuds so I can get them locally?

George

Amazon.com: StrongArm 4220 Volvo 740 Sta. Wagon...

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Burb

I just reviewed the older section on shocks for a clam shell lift gate in the FAQ section, great info by the way Hart Rod ... always wanted to do it but never took that first step.
But to take it one step forward ... has anyone ever tryied putting an automatic release for the hatch.
Is it possible to use the lifting power of the shocks or would you have to add some type of pusher or maybe a stronger shock setup?


________
Rick

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

that would be a cool idea, remove the handle all together on the hatch.
If the struts can't push it up from closed, you could always use some poppers like the guys with shaved door handles used.

The way the push button is setup, you could easily modify a door lock solenoid to pop it open. As far as the lifting power, once you get the liftgate cracked 3-4 inches, the strong arms will push it open.

Originally Posted by gemiii

I wanted to post this to HartRods post but it is locked up. I ordered those struts from Amazon for $18.78 each with free shipping and they gave $5 back so the total was $32.56. I havent gotten the ball studs yet so they are not installed. Anybody know the size of those ballstuds so I can get them locally?

George

Amazon.com: StrongArm 4220 Volvo 740 Sta. Wagon Tailgate 1985-92: Automotive

Nice buy on the StrongArms! I found these ball studs on the website you posted:

Amazon.com: AP Products 010-080 Gas Spring...
As far as finding them local, Napa is probably the only place that might have them. If you have a couple of old 67-70 trucks you can use the ones that the bottom of the gas pedal attach to, .

R/

[Burb]

I guess I will have to open the latch cover and see which release moves first to trigger the top hatch only.
And I think the force of a popper as Longhorn Man said should be able to give it a good start. The next question on that would be location to mount a popper.

And would a stronger shock help or changing one of the mount points?

The thought was to shave the 3rd door handle and rear hatch and trigger from inside or remote.

________
Rick

[AzDon]

What I hope to be able to accomplish on my 68 is to make 3 inside c-hinges for the lift hatch, since my stock hinge pockets are broken. My plan is to have them double-jointed and pushed by a linear actuator mounted horizontally in the headliner, so that the top of the hatch will be pushed out a couple of inches before lift, so that it will clear the rain gutter.
It will have no upper latch... the linear actuator will hold it shut. I'll then be able to move the lower latch inside if i wish.
That lift hatch is a heavy MXFX and just the outboard weight fulcrum'd against the prop rods broke the spot welds in the hinge pockets.
The challenge is going to be figuring out a way to secure the original gate that is strong enough. I'd just buy a new lift hatch and do it stock if it was available. Anybody know of a reman source?

[AzDon]

Okay, I did some work this week on the tailgate latches.....when you push the button, the movement is converted to rotary movement of a bellcrank that pulls the two side release bars toward the center for lower gate release. What this means is that you could essentially hang a GM door lock solenoid horizontally by a trapezoid hinge that allows it to "float" (side-to-side) and have the two ends pull on tne right and left door bars.
The upper latch release can't be electrified nearly as easy...... Even though I've devised a way to fix my upper right hinge instead of creating inboard hinges, I'm still thinking that I want to use an electric screwjack to raise the hatch and lower it and hold it shut in lieu of a latch.
Simplicity kinda makes an inside mechanical release a better idea for the lower hatch since the upper would always be open first anyway.

[Hart_Rod]

Why not use a small bearclaw latch attached to the lower gate to provide the latch for the upper gate?

[Burb]

Yeah, I was looking at trying to seperate the push button's action and using it strictly for the lower gate.
And concentrate on the upper hatch release using a shaved door type solenoid with a thin cable maybe.
I still haven't dug into the mechanism yet to see how hard it will be to seperate the two.
__________
Rick