The Never Ending Restore

[Russ65C10]

Thought I'd share the never ending restore (I blame it all on having kids)

A little history to start:
My dad bought himself a brand new truck in 1966, a C10 small window step-side with a 250 six, three on the tree. Bone stock except for instrument panel. He drove the truck in the mid-seventies before he handed it of to me as my first vehicle. I quickly drove it into the ground and moved on. It sat my folks backyard until about 18 years (yes that's right I've been working on this thing off and on for nearly 20 years) when I desided to get it going again.

What I've done... so far:
When I started out I picked up a barely running 1965 short-wide big window custom cab C10 that was pretty much fully loaded. 283, powerglide, front sway bar 3.73 with posi-traction. Body was beat to hell so I kept the cab and replaced everything else with the body of my 66 in addition I've done the following.

1. rebuilt a spare 283 I had laying around. Its bone stock with the exception of Edelbrock 1405 carb, performer intake, headman headers and electronic ignition.

2. Went through a junkyard TH350, rebuilt a 200R4 (never rebuild your own tranny), and 2 (yes 2) TCI streetfighter 700R4's (I'll never buy an other), before I broke down and had a friend of my brother-in-law's that specialize in build 700R4's build me one that you put in a tank, cost about a much as one too.

3. Installed power steering and front brakes from a mid-seventies chevy.

4. Have most of the parts to swap rear brakes over to disc. Looking for rear disc info was the reason I joined this group.

5. Painted the truck with Spray on Rustomum about 8 years. Needed to get it all one color, protect it from surface rust and if I went to Maco the wife would've decided I was done ;-)

6. In the process of repainting it with Rustomum again. Still can't afford a real paint job but I am getting un-comfortable with the amount of surface rust. This time, and I'll document it so everyone can see turns out and give me crap about it, I am going to do it using the "Roller" method. Its dirt cheap, I should be able to paint the entire truck with about $25 worth of paint. You don't have to worry about over-spray, you can do I part at a time. It's hard to screw up and so far its looking like its going to turn out better that my skill set could turn out any other way.

[DPowers]

Cool- welcome to the site- nice history on the truck- Check member CaptainFab about the rear discs.

[Russ65C10]

Thanks for the input. I'll likely build my own brackets. I want to use the Chevy 4x4 floating front rotor with the Cadillac calipers I have.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by DPowers

Cool- welcome to the site- nice history on the truck- Check member CaptainFab about the rear discs.

and

[pestwagon]

Good luck!! Nice truck!!

[Russ65C10]

Quick update on the Rollor paint job. I am now up to 5 coats on the front fenders and 2 on the hood. Its looking a heck of a lot better than when I tried to rattle can it back 2002. I am having a little bit of a problem with "orange peel" but other than that it going really well.

Right now I am guessing its going to take about 3 quarts to paint the whole truck with 8 to 10 coats. So at $12.99 a quart at OSH plus $7.99 a quart of the 2 quarts of mineral sprits I am using it cut the paint its looking like ~ $50 to paint the truck

[Russ65C10]

As I promised, here is an update on the paint job. I am now up to 6 coats on the fenders and 3 on the hood. The current hood is just a test. I have an other hood that's in perfect shape that I plan on painting later if everything turns out right and put on the truck.

I need to get serious about sanding

[Russ65C10]

Does anybody had any idea on what to use to caulk the rain gutter with before you paint??

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by Russ65C10

Does anybody had any idea on what to use to caulk the rain gutter with before you paint??

Yes, it's 'Autobody Sealant'.... Seriously, thats what is on the tube I have. I believe you may be able to get it at a parts store in their autobody section but I believe I picked mine up an autobody supply and it's made by 3M. #08500.

You could also ask Alan in the Vitamin C-10 thread; he is a body guy by trade and would know all the options.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Russ65C10

Does anybody had any idea on what to use to caulk the rain gutter with before you paint??

There are numerous products out on the market for this. I use a 2 part 3M product or Automix. I can't find the PN's, but they are in my build somewhere. The 3M I use is a self leveling, but it is very runny. If you have any kind of slope like the slope on our roofs it will end up at the bottom. I used Automix controlled flow. It flows for about 10 secs then stops. The only problem is it requires a special applicator (gun). If you decide on one of these or other flowable seam sealers keep the tip under the product as it comes out to reduce air pockets.

[Captainfab]

I was curious about what to use as well. I remembered reading what you used in your thread before but didn't remember the details. So I went and looked and got lucky and found the post.....Whew! lotsa posts in your build thread Alan! Anyway here's the post with the part numbers and info links.....

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...&postcount=424

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

There are numerous products out on the market for this. I use a 2 part 3M product or Automix. I can't find the PN's, but they are in my build somewhere. The 3M I use is a self leveling, but it is very runny. If you have any kind of slope like the slope on our roofs it will end up at the bottom. I used Automix controlled flow. It flows for about 10 secs then stops. The only problem is it requires a special applicator (gun). If you decide on one of these or other flowable seam sealers keep the tip under the product as it comes out to reduce air pockets.

[Russ65C10]

No pictures today ;-)

So I spent about 4 hours on Saturday sanding out most of the orange peel. Its a lot of work but was worth the effort. I applied 2 more coats to the hood and fenders and are now up to a total of 5 coats on the hood and 8 on the fenders.

One thing I've notice is that by waiting 5 days vs 24 hours to sand after the last application of paint that the paint was considerably "harder" and it held up a lot better to being sanded. I was able to take the orange peel out without sanding through all the previous layers of paint. One day of drying is just not enough. I've now started on the cowl as well, 2 coats with 8 to go.

[Bugeyev8]

saw your truck drive by me on Union the other day...

[Russ65C10]

A quick update:

I picked up my "good" hood from storage over the weekend and I am getting ready to paint it and replace my old bondo hood. I pretty sure I am going to switch colors from Rustoum Carvial Red to Regal Red. I sanded down and polished the old bondo hood and I am finding that the Carvial Red is a little too "pinkish" for my taste.

Once polished up the paint really "pops" with decent depth and a nice reflection off of it.

[Shaky]

Hot Rod or Car Craft had an article about doing a Rustoleum paint job not too long ago. I think they rolled it on, sanded it, and then buffed it. It looked good.

[Russ65C10]

Yeah, I read that one along with about 1/2 dozen other reviews of how to do it. My experience so far shows its a much better way to paint your car on the cheap than using rattle cans and if you're willing to take your time put the effort in to sanding it out properly you can get a better paint job than the $500 Maco special.

The other nice thing about it is you can take your time and in the case or our trucks do one part at a time. "Front Clip", then the "Cab" and finally the "Bed".

I rolled my first few coats on too thick got orange peel and now I am having to spend a lot of time sanding to get rid of it. But I got tell you where I've gotten rid of the orange peel and buffed it out, looks really good.

[Russ65C10]

Getting ready to paint the inside of the bed, bed cross bars, rear frame and replace the bed wood. Since I am on a budget I am going with 5/8 th inch hardwood plywood cut to fit and stained. I'll get some pictures up of my progress when I get a chance later this week. Only thing I've done so far is unbolt the front wall of the bed so I can pull it out and straighten it up. I'll also paint the back of the cab thats covered by front of the bed at the same time.

Painting the frame with rustoluem "Hammered" in black. Looks goood :-) Oh and I am switching my body color to the Regal Red from Carnival Red. Carnival Red turned out a little "pinkish" after I sanded and rubbed it out. I want something a more Red.

[LILRED66]

Interesting build thread. I am following your progress on the roller paint job...quite impressive, considering the financial investment. Thanks for sharing and please keep us posted.

[Russ65C10]

Here's an update:

I am in the middle of painting the rear of the frame and the inside of my bed so I can replace the rotted out plywood bed I've had in the truck for the last 18 years.

Here is a shot of the bed interior and the frame. The lighting makes the paint look orange but its not. I have 4 coats rolled on so far and you can still see through it. I have about 8 coats on the tops of the sides and its looking like it will take 10 - 12 coats to get thick enough that you can sand it down and buff it without being able to see through.

[Russ65C10]

Here are some more photos. I still have a lot of painting to do.

[Russ65C10]

Picked up a rear sway bar off of a IROC Z28 yesterday from Pick-n-Pull. Painting it and then going to put it on in place of aftermarket bar I've had on there. The fit is a lot better, its alot lighter and its going to look a lot better :-)

[McC_65_91]

looking good so far. keep the pictures coming, im debating doing this on my truck when body work is done

[Russ65C10]

It seems to be a good DIY method for those of us that are "spray" challenged.

Here's some photo's from today taken with my crappy cell phone camera (explains why the coating of dirt looks yellow). Got myself a nice Carmaro IROC rear bar to add :-)

[Russ65C10]

I am figuring its going to take 2 more coats on the bed top rails and then I'll be able to buff them out to see what the final product is going to look like. I'll get the good camera out when I do and post pics.

[Alan's Classic]

For not being sprayed it looks great.