Royal Purple or Lucas?

[GKsport67]

Any experience with either product? Whats the benefits?

[johnechi]

Royal Purple is a good quality synthetic motor oil that I would use on a freshly rebuilt or resealed engine. Synthetics have a much higher boiling point, dissapate heat much better, and the lubrication qualities are unmatched.

Lucas is an oil additive that can be added to either synthetic or dyno oil. They claim better top end lubrication and less valvetrain noise.

[C20-67_N_MO]

I ran RP in my daily driver for one year w/o changing the oil.

And had no problems with it.

Great product!

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by C20-67_N_MO

I ran RP in my daily driver for one year w/o changing the oil.

And had no problems with it.

Great product!

Any quality full synthetic is able to do this.

Royal Purple is a very high quality product, but over kill on anything but a race application.

[hicktownhotrodder]

i have to be partial to Lucas products cause they sponsor tractor pullin
-100th post!-

[IndyRich]

Lucas actually has synthetic oil as well as additives. Both are great products, I personally have used both.I use the additive in my Audi A4 and the synthetic oil in my Jeep Wrangler and 1972 GMC. Used to be a Mobil 1 guy, now I like Lucas.

Mr. Lucas is a native of Indiana and a former truck driver. He started the company by formulating products for Semi-trucks. Once that took off and was successful his company began formulations for additives to passenger cars which led to the great synthetic oil products they have today.

[capev86]

i wouldn't bother with an additive. stupid trying to try and improve junk fluid unless its a throwaway vehicle. and then.....why spend any extra at all anyway if you plan to drive the car into ground and not take care of it. there is cheap synthetic out there that you can get for less than the price of a garage oil change where they use....junk.

royal purple is perfect for any vehicle of significance or gets worked hard or has extra demands on it (turbo application, etc). quality oil is cheap insurance. i run (walmart) super tech synthetic on my daily drivers, have high mileage mobil 1 in my 72 burb's 307 with RP in the 3onthetree and soon to be in the HO52 when i get my 4.10 swap done. i will very likely be running RP in my 406sbc when i get to the engine swap in.

[brad_man_72]

lucas.

only because they support the sport. that might even be their slogan? they have built one of the nicest dirt track facilities. they sponsor almost everything, they just bought a boat drag racing series and are building a liquid 1/4 next to their dirt oval, they even have a CORR race there once a year.

i like to know my money is going into something i can enjoy watching on tv or in person.

[msgross]

well, i'm a Colts fan and they now play at Lucas stadium.... what better reason to buy a product....

but seriously, I replaced the gear lube with Lucas since it was still synthetic but cheaper than RP...

[Ironangel]

Here's the "skinny" acording to "Ghostrider Indutries"; If your still running a pre 73 engine w/internals,running syn is fine as long as it contains enough ZDDP to keep the mains and bores happy not to mention the valves and their kin,seats cool and protected. These older set ups required lead! The late model formulas and CNC tollorances not to mention alloy's along with "green emissions" BS got everybody scramblin! Ill run rotella-t in the old sb350 and change her often, while the Mobil-1 gets used in the high performance stuff like my bike(which aint no v-twin or late model rocklet!)But still smokes them all after thirty somethun years!....Come on?

[hicktownhotrodder]

think with your dipstick! Jimmy! i thought this would be an apropriate place for it

[olred68]

i like AMSOIL its really good stuff

[GKsport67]

it's Royal Purple for me from here on out,i saw the evidence.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by olred68

i like AMSOIL its really good stuff

x 2

[CSGAS]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Here's the "skinny" acording to "Ghostrider Indutries"; If your still running a pre 73 engine w/internals,running syn is fine as long as it contains enough ZDDP to keep the mains and bores happy not to mention the valves and their kin,seats cool and protected. These older set ups required lead! The late model formulas and CNC tollorances not to mention alloy's along with "green emissions" BS got everybody scramblin! Ill run rotella-t in the old sb350 and change her often, while the Mobil-1 gets used in the high performance stuff like my bike(which aint no v-twin or late model rocklet!)But still smokes them all after thirty somethun years!....Come on?

I went that route for a while but the latest reformulation of Rotella, Delo and even straight Diesel-only oils removed ZDDP last year.

I did a bunch of research when I couldn't even find "break-in" oil or ZDDP additives in any reasonable source, because every store wants to sell expensive "zMAx" and teflon additives instead...nothing wrong with zMax if you need it, and they are racing (same company makes Legends cars and runs a half dozen tracks) but $50 additional bucks an oil change for the wrong product?!? Since Lucas Oil is based in what I consider my "hometown" (I was born in Detroit but grew up mostly in Corona) I settled for Lucas Oil treatment (didn't need the "motor honey" effect, but I don't want to wipe out a flat tappet cam) then promptly discovered at O'Rielly's what I was looking for all along. If anyone else wants to keep their flat tappet cams going especially during break-in, with today's off-the-shelf oils, the most readily available ZDDP additive is drum roll and the envelope, please

STP and O'Reilly has their own brand to compete with it.

About synthetics, 99% synthetics, synthetic blends, vs mineral oils I never needed to be whipped with a dipstick or see the commercial marketing or tests that support lobbyists. My mentor did a real test for me. One teaspoon each of Amsoil, Mobil 1, Syntec and Quaker State (back when it was still Pennsylvania crude not rebottled Pennzoil) on a 55-gallon drum lid then heated the bottom evenly using a set of torches. Dunno and didn't care what the temperature reading was, but the mineral oil turned carbon-black, the blend had a big black splotch in it, the 99% synthetic had a few specks of carbon in it (I'd be OK with that in a daily driver) and the 100% synthetic (like Amsoil, Neo, Royal Purple, Redline, and Joe Gibbs) stayed clear as water after a couple minutes of even heating. I do also proscribe to the belief that a well-worn engine can't stand up to a change to synthetics, the change needs to be made shortly after break-in or you're asking for problems.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by CSGAS

I went that route for a while but the latest reformulation of Rotella, Delo and even straight Diesel-only oils removed ZDDP last year.

I did a bunch of research when I couldn't even find "break-in" oil or ZDDP additives in any reasonable source, because every store wants to sell expensive "zMAx" and teflon additives instead...nothing wrong with zMax if you need it, and they are racing (same company makes Legends cars and runs a half dozen tracks) but $50 additional bucks an oil change for the wrong product?!? Since Lucas Oil is based in what I consider my "hometown" (I was born in Detroit but grew up mostly in Corona) I settled for Lucas Oil treatment (didn't need the "motor honey" effect, but I don't want to wipe out a flat tappet cam) then promptly discovered at O'Rielly's what I was looking for all along. If anyone else wants to keep their flat tappet cams going especially during break-in, with today's off-the-shelf oils, the most readily available ZDDP additive is drum roll and the envelope, please

STP and O'Reilly has their own brand to compete with it.

About synthetics, 99% synthetics, synthetic blends, vs mineral oils I never needed to be whipped with a dipstick or see the commercial marketing or tests that support lobbyists. My mentor did a real test for me. One teaspoon each of Amsoil, Mobil 1, Syntec and Quaker State (back when it was still Pennsylvania crude not rebottled Pennzoil) on a 55-gallon drum lid then heated the bottom evenly using a set of torches. Dunno and didn't care what the temperature reading was, but the mineral oil turned carbon-black, the blend had a big black splotch in it, the 99% synthetic had a few specks of carbon in it (I'd be OK with that in a daily driver) and the 100% synthetic (like Amsoil, Neo, Royal Purple, Redline, and Joe Gibbs) stayed clear as water after a couple minutes of even heating. I do also proscribe to the belief that a well-worn engine can't stand up to a change to synthetics, the change needs to be made shortly after break-in or you're asking for problems.

Spot on Mr.! STP is liquid gold in the older high performance engines! When any oil breaks down, the last line of defence from metal to metal contact is "zinc" ZDDP.

[Gene]

Make sure you always run a synthetic filter also, brand doesnt really matter, K&N or Mobil1, or Royal Purple, they all have the ability to filter down to close to 10 Microns. I wouldn't even think of running a cellulose or "paper" filter. I saw a study on cellulose vs. synthetic filters and all I can say is that I will never use another AC oil filter or Fram for that matter until they come out with a suitable synthetic one.

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by Gene

Make sure you always run a synthetic filter also, brand doesnt really matter, K&N or Mobil1, or Royal Purple, they all have the ability to filter down to close to 10 Microns. I wouldn't even think of running a cellulose or "paper" filter. I saw a study on cellulose vs. synthetic filters and all I can say is that I will never use another AC oil filter or Fram for that matter until they come out with a suitable synthetic one.

Where you get those...Auto Zone?

[Gene]

Originally Posted by GKsport67

Where you get those...Auto Zone?

You should be able to get a synthetic filter at any parts store, they're easy to spot, they usually start at around 12 bucks. And they should state that they are synthetic on the box. On a side note, they are perfectly compatible with non-synthetic or petrolium based lubricants also.

[GKsport67]

Her's the link that convinced me http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by GKsport67

Her's the link that convinced me http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Hmm... kinda funny that the oils in that report that did the best, appear to be sponsors for the site that did the "tests".

Gary

[smallstroke67]

Come on people were talkin about Chevrolets here not Dodge or Ford! Just keep the oil changed like your suppose to and you'll get 300k+ Leave the fancy oils and additives to the race engines and the junk that needs it Ford, Dodge, Toyota, etc

[msgross]

I use amsoil and a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter... changed every 10,000 mile which happens to be what I drive in a year.

[umwtnt]

I started running RP several years ago after doing a lot of research. I am very happy with it. Lucas products, working in construction you see a lot of equipment get abused daily, I initially used Lucas oil supplement in a Mack superliner that had over 1,000,000 miles on the engine, it would smoke blue all day long, especially at start up. After about a week the smoking almost went completely away. After that I started using it on all our trucks. Oil consumption decreased on every truck. My dump trucks leaked hydraulic oil out the dump cylinders, I used the hyd supplement and leaks went away. I can tell many stories on how Lucas products have helped decrease a lot of problems I have had with equipment.

[kcfirstbuild]

What is your Thought about Schaffer Oil ? They have a semi synthetic and a full. I have seen the Bearing and race test done with the semi and I couldn't stop the bearing with all my body weight on the bar. http://www.schaefferoil.com/