Factory A/C vs. Aftermarket A/C

[BLT-NT-BOT]

Im wondering what you guys think is better factory or aftermarket ac. As far as which one is cheaper, colder, easier, just all around the best way to go. Thanks in advance.

[cdowns]

new aftermarket stuff is far more efficent and robs less horsepower MPG
both will cool a well sealed insulated cab just fine

[cparman]

I agree with CDOWNS. I have Classic auto air in my 69 C-10, and in NE Fla it is 35 degrees at the vents. IMO the aftermarket pushes more air thru the vents. The OE can be troublesome because of availability of replacement parts. The negative to aftermarket is there is not a " blend'. Meaning that all of the a/c is full recirculation. The OE's have a way to allow fresh air to be cooled, but still allow outside air in. My 72 Blazer will have Classic air when finished. This old fat man wants to be cool, and LOOK cool driving a Blazer that is almost as old as I am.

[Todersauce]

There is really no difference, it is a chemical reaction of the freon gas that is the same in a new system or and old system. There are 5 major parts to a ac system the compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer/accumulator, and expansion valve/ccot. The Huge difference is the freon. Pre 1995 the auto industry used all R12 freon. Post 1995 everyone uses R134 freon. Old R12 systems can use new R134 freon with a few adjustments. If you have a working R12 system you can convert it to R134 or have it converted. The main reason is the cost of the freon. R12 is spendy if you can get it, $75 per pound and R134 is much less about $12 and easy to get almost anywhere. A new compressor most likely won’t cost you as much horsepower to run and work better, but most old compressors can be rebuilt and work as good as a new one for less $$$.

In my opinion both are equal it depends on how deep your pockets are and your skill level. If you like new and shiny with the bells and buttons go new. If not go with the old stuff

[chipflyer]

It really depends on what you are building. As the others have said they both work well. I am into the stock look and put mine back as original and it works great, but again I wanted the original look. If I were building a custom I would definitely go aftermarket with the newer style components and not deal with the ugly old stuff that isn't as efficient from over 40 years ago.

Jeff

[tcb-1]

imho, the aftermarket systems take up less space under the hood and, from what I have heard, is a bit more dependable and user friendly than the original Harrison units.

[70cst]

It also depends if one wants to keep the truck as close to factory as possible. To rebuild an OE AC will cost about the same as a new aftermarket AC system. I wanted to keep the Circuit Rider as close to stock as possible so I went with the OE AC system. If that wasn't important to me I would have gone aftermarket. JMHO

[ERASER5]

Are you planning to drive your truck in the winter? If not, then the aftermarket stuff is great. If you are going to drive the truck, you will be disappointed with the aftermarket stuff. Not with the AC part, that is great, the heating part will be the trouble.

The V in HVAC is Ventilation. The aftermarket stuff does not vent, it only recirculates. In the winter, this will fog you windshield. You need outside air to keep the windshield clear. Every OEM, every single one, uses outside fresh air for heat. The fellows down south can get away with recirculated air. Us northerners cannot.

The recirculation only system do have their good, maybe great, points too. No outside air means that you can do a slick smoother cowl. Vent doors can be sealed and smoothed. Air boxes can be re-purposed to hide the AC/heater lines, wiring, fuse boxes.

For a winter driven truck, go with the OEM system. If you are parking the truck for the winter, go with what ever you want.

Just my 12+ years developing/testing HVAC stuff for F**D.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Are you planning to drive your truck in the winter? If not, then the aftermarket stuff is great. If you are going to drive the truck, you will be disappointed with the aftermarket stuff. Not with the AC part, that is great, the heating part will be the trouble.

The V in HVAC is Ventilation. The aftermarket stuff does not vent, it only recirculates. In the winter, this will fog you windshield. You need outside air to keep the windshield clear. Every OEM, every single one, uses outside fresh air for heat. The fellows down south can get away with recirculated air. Us northerners cannot.

The recirculation only system do have their good, maybe great, points too. No outside air means that you can do a slick smoother cowl. Vent doors can be sealed and smoothed. Air boxes can be re-purposed to hide the AC/heater lines, wiring, fuse boxes.

For a winter driven truck, go with the OEM system. If you are parking the truck for the winter, go with what ever you want.

Just my 12+ years developing/testing HVAC stuff for F**D.

Good info...I never thought about fog city.

[big_al_71]

I went with "Classic Auto Air" and in the miami heat it blows a cool 37 degrees and I have to keep it at medium speed because how cold it gets in there. It is super compact and I did not put the heater part in as in miami there is zero need for heat. Then install was super easy and clean...

[Shane]

Hey Al, can you use the stock control panel/unit with the Classic Auto Air kit or does it require their control panel/unit?

Thanks!

[big_al_71]

Originally Posted by Shane

Hey Al, can you use the stock control panel/unit with the Classic Auto Air kit or does it require their control panel/unit?

Thanks!

The kit requires that you use your factory lever unit. My truck did not have a/c so I used the heater control unit. I think I could had bought one from the but you dont really need to.shane here are a couple of picts from when we were installing it.

[leddzepp]

If you want fresh air to come into the cab while running the heater in an aftermarket system, simply reach down and pull open the drivers side air vent in the kick panel. Fogging problem solved.

[suville]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

If you want fresh air to come into the cab while running the heater in an aftermarket system, simply reach down and pull open the drivers side air vent in the kick panel. Fogging problem solved.

Do you know if the vacuum operated vent on the pass. side can be made operational thru the heat/defrost control lever? I've researched most of the aftermarket units and am most impressed with Classic Auto Air for the simple reason they are (to my current knowledge) the only unit to use two separate coils one for heat one for cool just as the factory units. those of you using CAA have you smoothed the firewall and do you have any pics? I'd like to do my firewall but dont have the ching for a AC unit just now so it would be most helpful if I could see how you did yours. Thanks

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by suville

Do you know if the vacuum operated vent on the pass. side can be made operational thru the heat/defrost control lever? I've researched most of the aftermarket units and am most impressed with Classic Auto Air for the simple reason they are (to my current knowledge) the only unit to use two separate coils one for heat one for cool just as the factory units. those of you using CAA have you smoothed the firewall and do you have any pics? I'd like to do my firewall but dont have the ching for a AC unit just now so it would be most helpful if I could see how you did yours. Thanks

Are you talking about the top lever on a factory A/C system? That is the one that controls inside/outside airflow, via a vacuum switch. All the way to the left is for A/C (pass side kick panel open for recirc, cowl vent closed) To the right is for heat (kick panel vent closed, cowl vent open for outside air) The other two levers operate cables.

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

If you want fresh air to come into the cab while running the heater in an aftermarket system, simply reach down and pull open the drivers side air vent in the kick panel. Fogging problem solved.

I'll take that as a joke. 0 degree air blowing on my leg. That's what I want.

A complete flush is OK, but not absolutely necessary. The mineral oil will just lay in the lowest point.

Every unit has a separate core for heat and cool.

Outside air for our trucks comes from the cowl. Smooth the cowl, no vents.

The vacuum controlled vent door part of the fresh air/recirc source, but some or all of that fresh air is then routed through the heater core. How much air is heated is determined by the temp selector.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

I'll take that as a joke. 0 degree air blowing on my leg. That's what I want.

If you are wearing pants its not a problem.

[Shane]

Awesome Al! Thank you for the info & the pics!

[Ryan Hubbard]

When I installed my Vintage Air system in my truck, I did not block off the passenger side vent. I converted it to a manual opening vent just so I could open the vent when I needed fresh air and since the vent is right near the intake for the Vintage Air it works well for defrosting windows. But that is the one drawback to the aftermarket AC systems in not having a fresh air option.

[thelonerife]

I put vintage air on my truck and love it! I'll put it on every truck now. The older compressors will leak oil out of the clutch eventually and seem to take more from the motor imo.

[4x4Poet]

I'm also dissapointed in aftermarket A/C systems for our trucks that don't use cowl fresh air.

But I wonder if a little simple duct work would make either cowl or pass side vent fresh air flow through the evaporator. For the side vent, a drawback might be less leg room to accomodate the vent ducting. A fresh air/recirc flapper would be a greater challenge for the side vent.


Anyway BLT-, Since you have the factory system, to use R134 you just need to go throught the conversion process above to use R134. To use a Sanden compressor, the R134 conversion hoses must have correctly routed and configured compressor hose fittings since any retro-fit R134 hoses configured for the OEM piston compressor will have the wrong fittings and metal line bends for a Sanden. Hose lengths required can also differ.

Most A/C hose makers can make R134 hoses for Chevy trucks to SBC/BBCs. They'll need to know the truck, engine, pulley system, compressor location, etc. before making up a set. Classic Auto Air, Vintage Air, etc. can make up a set if local sources can't.

I prefer R12 for its superior cooling ability, but, as stated above, R134 can easily handle a pickup cab. I use R134 barrier lined hoses even for refurbishing an R12 system since they are superior for stopping leaks and the cost is comparable to non-barrier R12 hoses.

[Tkmadone]

When I got my C20 it had the factory air stuff on the body but nothing on the engine. I bought all the stuff from here:

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/

I believe I spent about $300, which included brackets, a new compressor, hoses, and the valve replacement thingie.

I work quite well, blowing 36 degrees. My only complaint is the factory center vent in the dash. It only blows straight ahead, which is annoying. I'm considering replacing it with 2 vents so I can aim one at myself and one at the passenger.

[bludshaker]

Has anyone done the opposite of what Tkmadone has done? I'm installing a motor with a factory GM serpentine set up on it. All I need is the under dash pieces. I have a compressor, drier and condensor already. Would it be worth buying the under dash kit from a company and hooking it up to what i have already? Or should I buy a complete kit from a company and use all of the components together? Would the aftermarket compressor even bolt to the factory style serpentine brackets!? I know Classic Auto Air sells the in cab parts as a kit and thats what I was thinking of buying. Plus they are 20 mins from my house so I can pick up the parts locally!

[BHyatt]

I am still wondering if I can rip the system components from under the hood of a mid-80's Chevy Truck and bolt them up to my '71

[sv10001975]

I was wondering that myself, they seem to be more available in my area. There aren't any 67-72 trucks in my area to rob from unless you buy another truck. You would think in the SE that you could find an AC truck, but they have almost disappeared here