Bench Bleeding Mastercylinder

[flashed]

I did a search but didnt find an answer so here goes. How do I benchbleed a mastercylinder before installation? I ordered my booster and mastercylinder from Frank at Franks Pick-M-Ups and it is completely assembled and looks incredible. I cant wait to have power brakes .Truck is a 72 and already has discs .Anyone need a good working nonpower mastercylinder ?

[mbgmike]

They should have given you a little kit with it. Or you can make or buy one for less than $5.00 that explains it.

We can email you a set of instructions but basically you put it in a vice.
run two lines from the ports to each chamber .

fill reservoirs with fluid

Push the plunger in back and forth until no sign of air.

Put lid back on . leave lines in place . install on truck

attach the lines Have a friend push on the pedal and hold it down. Loosen the lines on at a time to release any remaining air. do the other line.

Make sure resi is full and bleed the brakes as normal.

[TomJohnston]

Originally Posted by flashed

I did a search but didnt find an answer so here goes. How do I benchbleed a mastercylinder before installation? I ordered my booster and mastercylinder from Frank at Franks Pick-M-Ups and it is completely assembled and looks incredible. I cant wait to have power brakes .Truck is a 72 and already has discs .Anyone need a good working nonpower mastercylinder ?

+1

Make sure you have a good vice to hold on to it with, when I did mine I had to push on the plunger pretty hard.

[LEEVON]

I've done it in the car/truck with success a few times, you just have to make sure it's very level. There are little kits, but you can also take an old fitting and line and make a block off for one port by crimping the line and the other just cut short and attache a short clear hose to go back into the reservoir. The idea is to block one port and circulate the other until there are no air bubbles, then switch. Don't push hard or fast though you will aerate the fluid and have to wait a day.

[Sinister]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

I've done it in the car/truck with success a few times, you just have to make sure it's very level. There are little kits, but you can also take an old fitting and line and make a block off for one port by crimping the line and the other just cut short and attache a short clear hose to go back into the reservoir. The idea is to block one port and circulate the other until there are no air bubbles, then switch. Don't push hard or fast though you will aerate the fluid and have to wait a day.

X2, Done it on the truck as well.

[mbgmike]

Yes you can do it on the vehicle. Not recommended by anyone or any manufacturer but it can be done on the vehicle but its no big deal to do it on the bench either. Most techs I know do it that way but they aren't supposed to

[62LS1]

http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/...er%20flyer.pdf

I'm trying a link, so I hope it works, but I used this method to bleed my whole system and it worked great.

[mclairmo]

Also, if you bleed the master on the vehicle, can you really push the piston all the way into the bore like you could with the master in a vice? I would think that bleeding the master on the the vehicle would possibly allow some air to be trapped at the end of the piston bore.

[LEEVON]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

Also, if you bleed the master on the vehicle, can you really push the piston all the way into the bore like you could with the master in a vice? I would think that bleeding the master on the the vehicle would possibly allow some air to be trapped at the end of the piston bore.

Good point, it's one of those things that works for the DIY guy a few times but for a tech or somebody that does it all the time why chance it. I just have luck putting a bullet level on the reservior and jacking up the rear of the vehicle till it's level. I've never considered the stroke length, but then again I don't have a vise I would listen to the others and bench bleed if your not sure, unless your vise-less like me!