Honestly, what would you do?

[Puyallup68C20]

I bought this 68 C-20 about 3 months ago. Prior to that it had been sitting in a field and ran a few times during that year to haul some manure around the farm. Prior to that is any guess. It has the original 327 and Th400, drums all around and power nothing. My buddies and I just did a "tune up" yesterday. All along I have known that it does burn "some" oil, and we fixed the problem of oil loss coming from the oil filler being able to just pull out with ease. The plugs when we pulled them were terrible looking all gunky and covered in oil, my buddies were amazed that the engine was running "fine" with them in that condition. We replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and properly time it. During this process we realized that the steel crank bolt had in the past been broken off halfway or so in the engine. This quite worried me considering I don't want to have my fan and stuff flying off. But his father said its been in there for 50 years so far and hasn't come out, but best to take care of it soon. So my plan is for a rebuild. My buddies say lets get some serious HP out of this engine, I'm thinking lets keep it original. But I know barely nothing about all this stuff so I rely on many gearhead friends to help me out along the way so I to some day can tear it down and build it. I know on this forum with all your knowledge and experience, that you guys would know whats best for this situation and how I should go about it. My buddy knows a guy that can rebuild it for say 600-700$ I could have a bit extra cash saved up by then and perhaps do some modding to the engine. What would you do?

[rsavage]

If you plan on keeping the truck close to original as you restore it then I would rebuild the original engine. $6-700 would be a very, very cheap. My guess is that it will cost more depending on the machine work needed on block and heads.

[Puyallup68C20]

I plan on taking the engine to the rebuild guy of theirs in June. If 6-700 is just for the basic rebuild, considering the variables of what could be "bad/going on" inside the engine, like are my rings leaking, valves gone bad? How much could the rebuild eventually cost all said and done? Mainly because I am on a bit of a budget and need to save accordingly for how much this could possibly cost.

[ETsC10]

As a passionate 327 owner, I would advise you to do what you can to save your original engine.
If stock, it is a two year only large journal with a steel crank…very nice engines
with valuable cranks and they are getting fairly rare.

The $600-700 quote does sound like a quickie rebuild…I've got $400 into my heads. In fact, my complete
long block engine core was $400 alone. Before any work.

You might want to do a few things to make it last longer, while saving more money, so you can do
the rebuild right the first time. In your shoes, I would test it thoroughly and run the block and head numbers.
Future piston choices have a lot to do with the heads you're running.

For now, if you want to keep running it for a while, you might want to pull the intake and replace the
valve stem seals plus clean the drain-back holes while you're in there.

There are several members local to you who are running this same engine and any of us would be
happy to give you further advice.


ET

[smn69]

Originally Posted by Puyallup68C20

I plan on taking the engine to the rebuild guy of theirs in June. If 6-700 is just for the basic rebuild, considering the variables of what could be "bad/going on" inside the engine, like are my rings leaking, valves gone bad? How much could the rebuild eventually cost all said and done? Mainly because I am on a bit of a budget and need to save accordingly for how much this could possibly cost.

Possible things that could be wrong: Bad rings, scored cylinder, valve seats (these should be replaced with hardened seats to be able to stand up to unleaded gas), bearings, crank may need to be turned, oil pump and timing gear should be replaced, cam and cam bearings could have problems. It is really hard to tell until you can get it apart and inspect and measure the parts. A full rebuild with all the machining work (rebuild heads, bore cylinder, turn crank replace crank and cam bearings, new pistons and rings, timing set, oil pump) could run around $2000.00or more. About the same price as a crate engine, but you get to keep the original engine and tell all your friends that you rebuilt it.

[junkyardjohn]

IT ALWAYS COSTS ME AROUND $2000 TO BUILD A 350. I ALWAYS PUT THE GOOD STUFF INSIDE. BUILDING A 327 IS SOMEWHAT MORE EXPENSIVE TO REBUILD. OR YOU CAN BY A HECKO IN MEHICO CRATE MOTOR FOR AROND $1700. I DON'T THINK I'VE EVER HAD A MACHINE SHOP BILL FOR LESS THAN $700 ON ANY MOTOR. THE 350 IS UNDOUBTABLY THE CHEAPEST MOTOR TO REBUILD. FOR $600-$700 YOU CAN EXPECT A DINGLE BALL HONE JOB, HANG NEW RINGS ON YOUR EXISTING PISTONS, NEW BEARINGS & 2 CANS OF KRYLON & ABOUT 6 HOURS OF LABOR. JOHN

[lil hoodlum]

Puyallup68c20,

I hate to say it but an engine rebuild for $6-700 sounds to good to be true. I think you can expect some corners to be cut in order just to get the job done.

I understand it is your plan to rebuild the engine but can it wait maybe a few more months to do the job right? It sounds like the old girl is still driveable!! Since you asked, I would just drive it, all the while save some money for the rebuild when the time comes.

lil hoodlum

[NORMSCOLORADO]

im not a big motor head but i am runnign a 327 in my 67 1 ton and it smoked a little for a few days and this truck had sat since 1993 i did a full tune up and changed the oil....and it did quit smoking. the valve seats may be dry too.... id say drive the pig for a bit and see what happens.....

[Jacfourteen]

Welcome to the board. I'd say save a little more money and do it right. Also while in there you should change to a performance cam, I have a comp cams xe268 and I love it, it is street friendly and has a nice lope to the idle. Oh yeah one other thing, where are the pictures?

[mclairmo]

Your buddy knows a guy that can rebuild it for $600 but do YOU know that guy? I never trust anything my stupid buddy's tell me. I've been told so many times by frineds that they know a guy and its all B.S. Build it yourself with the help of a good reputable machine shop or buy a good rebuilt. Nobody can properly rebuild an engine for $600 and use good stuff in it. Machine work alone is more than $600. Run it as is and save your money. Don't rebuild it if it still runs. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, then it IS too good to be true. If I were you, I would trust these experienced forum members more than your friends. These guys are experts with these trucks and know far more than I (or you) will ever know.

[beebster]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

Your buddy knows a guy that can rebuild it for $600 but do YOU know that guy? I never trust anything my stupid buddy's tell me. I've been told so many times by frineds that they know a guy and its all B.S. Build it yourself with the help of a good reputable machine shop or buy a good rebuilt. Nobody can properly rebuild an engine for $600 and use good stuff in it. Machine work alone is more than $600. Run it as is and save your money. Don't rebuild it if it still runs. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, then it IS too good to be true. If I were you, I would trust these experienced forum members more than your friends. These guys are experts with these trucks and know far more than I (or you) will ever know.

You hit it right on the head mclairmo!
If i had a nickel for everytime one of MY buddies told me about a "buddy" that his "buddy" knew, i'd have everything in my house working perfect,free tickets to the movies,free beer for life, etc
buddies always mean well, but in the end they KNOW that if crap goes wrong it's your butt on the line not thiers.
When stuff does go wrong they always say the same thing:
"that never happened to my buddy before,swear to god"

[beebster]

you could buy a used 305 or 350 for 300 bucks and use the other 300 or 400 and get a rebuild kit (rings,bearings,etc) and learn how to rebuild your own motor yourself. If it goes wrong, your still cruisin around in your used motor (while learning what HP costs,what you want,what you'd do different next time,etc)
Or spend 2 grand to have the motor rebuilt "right" or spend 2 grand on a crate 200 hp GM 350.
I'd take the first option and learn how to rebuild my own stuff.
just my backyard "put it on the road, not in shows" approach.

[msgross]

I have the same engine in my 68 and right now I plan to replace it with a $2000 crate if it starts having issues. I'll keep it around for the sake of "originality" but I'm not planning to rebuid right now. If I did then I would probably upgrade to newer heads (vortec or nice OEM) and have the rest of the engine gone through. Mine is a 240hp 327 that matches the truck but in the end, it's the budget that will decide..

[BluTrukker]

If you want horsepower, it takes money. Gobs of money! If you want to do a standard rebuild and have a good reliable engine that can spin the tires occasionally I say do it yourself. If you have gearhead friends, make them teach you. Buy a good rebuild manual for SBC(haynes or chiltons). You will never regret having the manual around. The forum can answer any questions that the manual can't. I know what its like being on a shoestring budget, so I can sympathize. Remember your labor is free, the machine shops is not. If you tear down everything yourself, you only have to pay for the necessary machine work. Last time I took a motor to the NAPA machine shop it cost me $12 per cylinder for boring and honing. If you only need a standard rebuild kit, you should be able to find a decent one for around $500. Follow the manual and take your time. The best way to learn is to go ahead and do it. Also most auto parts stores have loan-a-tool programs for all the speciality tools you will need. Sorry for the novel. Good luck!

[junkyardjohn]

IN 1968 THESE MOTORS WERE DESIGNED TO RUN ON REGULAR LEADED GAS. THEY HAD SOFT (NOT HARDENED VALVE SEATS) & THE LEAD WAS DESIGNEDE TO LUBRICATE THEM. YOU CAN'T BUY THAT FUEL ANYMORE. UNLEADED FUEL DOES NOT DO THIS & AS A RESULT THE VALVE SEATS GO TO H@LL IN SHORT ORDER. IF YOU ARE GOING TO DRIVE IT & PUT UNLEADED GAS IN IT (THE ONLY THING AVAILABLE) YOU WILL DESTROY THE HEADS. YOU REALLY DON'T HAVE MUCH CHOICE IF YOU PLAN ON DRIVING IT. THIS IS NOT AN OPINION.. IT'S A SAD FACT. BUT DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT, YOU SEEM TO HAVE A COMPUTER. DO A LITTLE RESEARCH ON IT. IT SEEMS I RARELY GET MORE THAN I PAY FOR, BUT WHO KNOWS.. MAYBE YOU'RE SUPER LUCKY & THE LAWS OF PHISICS DON'T APPLY TO YOU. JOHN

[red71cheyenne]

Sounds like a real nice score and congrats. I'd do like they are saying and save a little more money for the rebuild, but drive it some in the meantime to see how she runs and how the tranny and running gear are. I have rebuilt 350's for 3-500 several times, but the 327 may be a different animal.

You will have to get hardened seats for the valves, but sometimes you can find a set of heads that are already hardened that will work on that engine. Valve work can get expensive!

If you need any help or just want to talk, I'm right down the road in Bremerton. Jeff.

[beebster]

Originally Posted by BluTrukker

If you want horsepower, it takes money. Gobs of money! If you want to do a standard rebuild and have a good reliable engine that can spin the tires occasionally I say do it yourself. If you have gearhead friends, make them teach you. Buy a good rebuild manual for SBC(haynes or chiltons). You will never regret having the manual around. The forum can answer any questions that the manual can't. I know what its like being on a shoestring budget, so I can sympathize. Remember your labor is free, the machine shops is not. If you tear down everything yourself, you only have to pay for the necessary machine work. Last time I took a motor to the NAPA machine shop it cost me $12 per cylinder for boring and honing. If you only need a standard rebuild kit, you should be able to find a decent one for around $500. Follow the manual and take your time. The best way to learn is to go ahead and do it. Also most auto parts stores have loan-a-tool programs for all the speciality tools you will need. Sorry for the novel. Good luck!

yes! every word you say is true. Just do it.

[red71c10]

That's a great truck! Really reminds me of Dad's old '68. His wasn't exactly the same, but very close. Congrats and enjoy!

[Ackattack]

The heads will need to be addressed, no doubt.

If it were me I'd replace it with a new "327" aka gen III 5.3L, but I'm biased

You can get a lower mileage engine and all installed for about the price of a 350 rebuild (<$2000)

[Puyallup68C20]

First of all, I would like to express my gratitude to everyone for their opinions on the matter. After the "tune up" my buddies and I did, it felt like since I had bought it, it had ran at 70% and now it feels like 100%. This truck runs like a champ in my book. The only faults are that I am burning oil at a rate of about a quarter quart for a round trip to work and back and that is North Tacoma to South hill Costco. I add a lead treatment to full tanks of gas as well as a bit of lucas fuel treatment, and I need to add a bit more lucas oil treatment to the oil considering it has had an oil change during all of this burning. I only really see blue smoke when I really gas it and let off the gas is when it comes out. I am amazed at the abilities of the engine considering how terrible the plugs looked when we pulled them out. This truck is all stock down to its little list in the glove box cover. 327, th400, front stabilizer, front and rear HD springs. Although somewhere along the line the push button radio was lost, and a sparkly new 8 track player was installed, also still working, (I consider it my theft deterrent). It sounds like either I should do this myself, but for that option right now in life I am confined to a small apt with no garage. So, it sounds like I will run this girl till she quits on me and I cannot fix it, so this creates the situation of putting lots of extra cash away for when that day comes. If I am looking at a 2k rebuild cost, then that is what it will be. I have wanted this truck since I was a young boy, and I will die with this truck. I see no sense in getting a new Chevy, when this one does everything I need it to do, including towing my big fishing boat when I become a "rich" man. I can take some pictures right now, give me an hour or so to post. Again, Thanks to you all!

[Puyallup68C20]

My Pride and Joy, and one of the original split rims that were on it when I bought it.

[Newtz67]

Looks like a pretty solid truck! I wonder how many of us have drove around with the gas pedal gone like that and just the rod there haha. I did for years!
Whatever you do, please keep all the original parts with the truck, so later if you or the next guy wants it original, the option is there. Good luck!

[Puyallup68C20]

I love this truck too much to change almost anything on it. The only big things I might change is perhaps a front drum to disk swap for safety, and my leg gets tired without power brakes. I could leave the brakes original just for another anti theft property. Any thief would be amazed at how much force it takes to stop this thing, good thing I have some strong legs.

[mclairmo]

Check out some local car shows and ask the owners who built their engines. After a few times doing this, you'll start to hear the same names pop up and then you can go visit that engine builder and check him out. His shop should be clean, equipment in good shape, and he should understand that you want his attention and time to explain things to you. This is not just another motor to you, it's like your favorite body part (you pick which one) and if he's going to tinker with that body part you are entitled to a full explanation of what he's going to do, how he's gonna do it and how much it will cost you. If he does not want to bother taking the time necessary to explain things to you, then move on to another builder.