My T-5 swap all done but got bad trany

[Blackjeep99]

Ok got It all tied up and runnin all seemd good but had a slite wine in 2nd and 3rd gear. It shifted well and drove well really like OD. By the next day took truck on a longer drive in to town 2rnd and 3rd started wineing and grinding sound now 1st 4th and 5th work great sound good and quiet so I pulled it out checked all the clutch, pilot, and Ds all were good. when I drained it had metal in it. SO. My quess is it was bad from the yard I got it from. So there supposed to get me another on mon. But all and all a great swap easily done with basic tools and knowledge. Just make sure u get a goot tranny lol. IF anybody near marion Oh has a 88 S-10 T-5 with mech speepo let me know I want to have a back up. Oh it went in a 69 swb GMC 350.

[LockDoc]

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I just finished mine up too. I'm going to put the seat in tonight and take it for the maiden voyage. I hope I have better luck than you did. I do have a spare though.

I put mine in my '67 LWB 6cyl, to replace the granny low 4 speed.

LockDoc

[Blackjeep99]

I hope u have better luck to. U should like it makes it like a new truck ez to drive first is a lil small thoi could take off in 2nd ez nuff. When I first tryd driveing it I had to put it in reverse with the moter off then 3rd was the only gear I could get till it got warmed up. But then it was fine and shifted well but had the wine then it got worse. Still waiting on the yard to get me another. Well good luck and let me know how it gos.

[DustyC10]

How do you tell those 5 speeds apart? I have one out of a 90 S10, all aluminum case (one piece bellhousing/trans case), takes a slave cylinder... I know its the lighter duty one, but I was thinking of swapping it into my truck but the slave cylinder threw me for a snag...

[Blackjeep99]

The T-5 will not have a bell on it it will be able to bolt up to a bell houseing like a 3sp. What u probly have is a 5lm60 out of a full size truck it is a NV3500 wich a is good trAns. The slave problem can be solved by geting a clutch master cylinder from LLC or CPP they have them with. Brake master cylinders. Another problem is the speedo it has an elec one you can fix this but it will cost around 300 for the conversion box. I have the same prob
lem with the S-10 T-5 if u get aT-5 get one from an 88 or older truck as they will have the mechanical speedo.

[Blackjeep99]

U bet I did I even filled it ran it for 30 or so miles drained it and replaced it wit new. O and don't use synthtic. I've herd it will not shift if u do

[DustyC10]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

The T-5 will not have a bell on it it will be able to bolt up to a bell houseing like a 3sp. What u probly have is a 5lm60 out of a full size truck it is a NV3500 wich a is good trAns. The slave problem can be solved by geting a clutch master cylinder from LLC or CPP they have them with. Brake master cylinders. Another problem is the speedo it has an elec one you can fix this but it will cost around 300 for the conversion box. I have the same problem with the S-10 T-5 if u get aT-5 get one from an 88 or older truck as they will have the mechanical speedo.

Ah, I'll have to do some research then, I know it came from a 91 S10 (I parted the truck). Just trying to learn about what I have, I'll probably sell mine off, going with a 5.3/4L60E swap in my 67, so I am selling off parts like crazy, lol

[Blackjeep99]

That's a good moter trans combo my dad wishis he wood of done that he has a 57 chevy swb 350 700 R4 wit fuel inj and 9in rear. The trans u have is worth round hear in oh bout 500.00 toi 650.00 so get what its worth

[LockDoc]

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Well the test went off with no problems. Runs and shifts like a dream. I need to adjust the clutch a little, I think I have a little too much free travel. Low gear isn't bad in mine but my truck is a 3/4 ton with a 4:10 rear.

I have Amsoil synthetic ATF in mine. I'll let you know if I have any shift problems. That's what was recommended for my T-5 on the Amsoil web site.

LockDoc

[slomotion]

You guy's are using ATF right?

[slomotion]

Raycow, I'm curious too. I put a T5 behind a 292, and did need to make up a spacer to center-up the trans front bearing retainer in the bell housing, but I'm under the impression that your #3 & #4 is an either/or. Personally, I cut my pilot bearing (In the flywheel) down to a heavy 1/2", and drove it deep into the flywheel, while cutting about 1/4 inch off of the end of the trans input shaft. These three mods allowed the trans to fit up with no problems.
I had to do something with the mounting bolts....can't remember exactly what it was, and at the moment am too lazy to crawl under the truck and look....
Two of the pics show the spacer, and the one with the mirror was checking to make sure the splines weren't bottomed out against the pilot bushing. (Obviously, this has to be done before the clutch and pressure plate is installed.)

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Oil Can Larry

What are the steps to ensure the swap goes well? I understand there is an aftermarket spacer plate necessary, as the input shaft is longer on the T-5. Is this correct? What else do I need to know?

Oil Can, on the S-10 T-5 both the input shaft and the bearing retainer are too long. When I did my swap I cut down the interfering parts so I didn't need the spacer plate. The plate will accomplish the same result in less time for more money.

The most important step is to bolt up the transmission without the clutch. This will let you see if and where any interference is occurring. The input shaft must be able to turn easily by hand with the mounting bolts fully tightened. Once the shaft turns freely, unbolt the transmission and re-install it with the disc (only) on the shaft. Turn the disc to make sure it doesn't rub against the end of the bearing retainer or drag on the flywheel because it has run out of spline length on the shaft. If the disc turns freely you can unbolt the transmission for the last time and complete the clutch installation.

Everything else is pretty much the same as for any other transmission swap. You will have to locate and cut the shifter hole and you will need a suitable driveshaft. On some installations you may need a longer speedo cable.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Ya sorry I menT input shaft. Just woke up and rePlied lol. No I did not use a step ring where can I get one at? The only time I had trouble geting it in gear was the first start up after that never a problem shifting. I have origa bell in my truck. Let me no about the step ring would like to have one thanx.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

Ya sorry I menT input shaft. Just woke up and rePlied lol. No I did not use a step ring where can I get one at? The only time I had trouble geting it in gear was the first start up after that never a problem shifting. I have origa bell in my truck. Let me no about the step ring would like to have one thanx.

Not to step on raycows toes but I got mine here:

http://dennymac.com/mod.php?mod=user...103&page_id=54

Some good info on the site also...

I spoke to a nice lady on the phone and the ring was $28.00 shipped. That is the best price I could find anywhere..

LockDoc

[raycow]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Not to step on raycows toes but I got mine here:

http://dennymac.com/mod.php?mod=user...103&page_id=54

No sore toes at all. I welcome all the help I can get.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Thanks I just goT it ordered should be hear thursday. I Hope!

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

Thanks I just goT it ordered should be hear thursday. I Hope!

Please let us know when you are ready to install the ring. I would like to suggest an easy test that might save the next transmission.

Ray

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

No I did not use a step ring where can I get one at? The only time I had trouble geting it in gear was the first start up after that never a problem shifting. I have origa bell in my truck. Let me no about the step ring would like to have one thanx.

If you have a 68 or later bellhousing you must install a step ring. The transmission will die an early death without it. The rings are available from Novak, Advance Adapters, and others, including an outfit which advertises on this board.
http://dennymac.com/mod.php?mod=user...103&page_id=54
I have not purchased from them yet, but they have the lowest price for the ring I have seen so far.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Ok I will do that. I already pulled the bad one out tho .

[Mayo]

I did a T5 swap in my truck but I have and 83 Camaro tranny. It went out on me after a year, but it has been fine the last 7 months.

[292farmer]

ok so i got a 292 like slomotion, currently sm465 and im thinking of putting a t5 in(believe its a t5)
and since its a 72 bellhousing i will require a snap ring correct? can i reuse my old clutch? saw alot of different setups after searching so got confused on that part.
what else will i need? i know shorter driveshaft does anyone know know how much longer the tranny is? ie how much do i need to shorten the shaft?
and i need to shorten the input shaft by 1/2in correct?
thanks everyone did my best using search forum but think i overloaded my brain....

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 292farmer

ok so i got a 292 like slomotion, currently sm465 and im thinking of putting a t5 in(believe its a t5)
and since its a 72 bellhousing i will require a snap ring correct? can i reuse my old clutch? saw alot of different setups after searching so got confused on that part.
what else will i need? i know shorter driveshaft does anyone know know how much longer the tranny is? ie how much do i need to shorten the shaft?
and i need to shorten the input shaft by 1/2in correct?
thanks everyone did my best using search forum but think i overloaded my brain....

If you are talking about a spacer ring, yes I think you will need one. Go to the DennyMac web site that I posted above and it will explain it all...

Did you see this excellent thread by brad?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313954

I purchased the spacer plate for the swap. It was $129 and saved me a lot of work. I don't remember the thickness for sure.

LockDoc

[292farmer]

no missed his thread,looks good so far. i did truthfully try search forum feature. oh well maybe i searched wrong forum. would the spacer do with out the spacer ring and input shaft cut or just the cut on the shaft?

[slomotion]

The "spacer ring" is actually just a bushing to keep your trans centered up in the bell housing, and runs about $35 incl. shipping from one of the links above. Cutting 1/4" off the input shaft is free - if your shaft even needs to be cut. Measure from the face of the trans where it fits against the bellhousing, to the end of your input shaft. Then, measure from the aft face of your bellhousing to the center of the crankshaft where the pilot bushing lurks. If the crank dimension is longer, you're good to go. (You may have to drive the pilot bushing deeper into the crankshaft to avoid having the spline taper of the input shaft from bottoming against the pilot bushing.) If I remember correctly, I took 1/4" off the pilot bushing, and drove it deeper into the crankshaft recess, then cut 1/4" off the input shaft, and filed just a slight radius on the end just to knock off the sharp edge.
BTW, you probably already know that the easiest way to get the pilot bushing out of the crank is to pack as much grease as you can into the void forward of the bushing, then using a socket full of grease and a short extension or a dowel of the proper diameter to fit inside the pilot bore, and bump it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure you create will force the bushing out.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by slomotion

the easiest way to get the pilot bushing out of the crank is to pack as much grease as you can into the void forward of the bushing, then using a socket full of grease and a short extension or a dowel of the proper diameter to fit inside the pilot bore, and bump it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure you create will force the bushing out.

Easy yes, but can be quite messy if you can't get a really close fit between the dowel and the bushing. If you don't like getting grease in your eyes, may I suggest an alternative?

Screw a 5/8" or 16 mm tap into the bushing until it bottoms out against the end of the hole. Then keep on turning the tap and it will pull the bushing out of the crank. If you don't have a suitable tap you can usually rent an inside puller from most parts stores or tool rental outfits.

Ray