Advice on Minimal Restore

[ERBSIX]

I started a build thread for the 1/2 ton 1978 Silverado I want to do a total frame off restoration on, and I mentioned in that thread that I have another 1978 Silverado, but 3/4 ton, for a parts truck.







The original plan was going to be to use this truck for parts and practice.

I am going to photograph and video the tear down to make FAQ articles on this site.

BUT, the more I've looked at, and thought about, this truck, the more I want to fix it up, build a wooden flat bed for it, and make it into a good work truck which I won't have to worry as much about.

The problem I'm facing, and the one I need advice on, is if I do totally tear this truck down to the frame, how do I do a MINIMAL restore on it?

I can't sink a ton of money into this one, as I need the money to fully restore my other Silverado.

My thoughts on a budget build:

1) Tear apart the 350, clean it up, check for any damages, replace minimal parts like piston rings, bearings, etc... Make sure the four speed, granny low, trans is well lubed and got good oil in it.

2) Replace bushings and shocks

3) Sand blast and Rattle can epoxy (POR15 or Eastwood?) everything on the frame and suspension

4) Practice on the cab, fenders, wheel wells, and hood for welding, sanding and painting

5) Rustoleum (cheap) paint the truck

6) Practice the dash pad repair then replace

7) Build a custom, low-profile, wooden flat-bed

8) Use it when my other truck is down for repair, and run parts in it. Then when the other truck is fully restored, use it for helping people move and pulling trailers to keep my restored one pretty and perfect...

Wow, long thread, sorry.

Advice on doing this the cheapest possible?
What do I not need to do?
What do I need to do?

Ultimately, I'm going to use this truck to tear down to frame only first, so I know what I'm doing before doing it to my really nice truck. And then practice grinding and welding on this one...

[glock35ipsc]

Well, the first thing I would do is get a flashlight, pen and paper, and go over all the things you want to do to it and see what will need repaired or replaced at a minimum. Safety items come first (brakes, shocks, lights, glass, etc.). Then drive train (tune-up, fluids, U-joints, etc.). Then cosmetic stuff.

Of those things, figure out what you can source used, what you can rebuild/refurbish, and what you will have to get new.

Don't necessarily go for the most expensive paints, rust inhibitors, etc. Expensive doesn't always mean the best. But don't totally cheap out either. There should to be a balance between quality and affordability.

Finally, make a written budget, and stick to it! Decide how much money you can dedicate to the project. Then list everything out line by line by order of safety items, drive train items, then cosmetic items, then give every part/job a dollar amount. Then, is each of those sections, prioritize each part, like brakes before shocks. Example: If you decide that you need new brake pads/shoes all the way around, do some research and find the best price for the best pads/shoes that will suit your needs. Put that amount into your written budget. That amount is what you have to spend on brakes, and nothing more. If you do go over, it will have to come out of something else that is in the budget.

Once you have everything lined out on paper, dive in!

[ERBSIX]

That's what I've done for the 1/2 ton truck, or at least started to do, it's a big job.

For this 3/4 ton it's going to get stripped down to the frame no matter what and disassembled. Again, I'm doing this as a test to get myself familiar with the process so it's easier when I do the "nice" truck. :-)

So after I get it torn down, I'll weld up the rusty spots for practice, like cab floors, etc... and get my sheet metal practice in, like making patch panels, spot welding and grinding...

Then I'll play with the frame and components.

Since I don't really care how long this one takes I think you're dead on with starting at safety stuff and then building up from there...

Thank you.

You should turn that into a FAQ for how to start ANY rebuild. :-)

[glock35ipsc]

I not only budget and plan my builds that way, that's how I do life! Food, utilities, clothes, gas, etc. It's all on paper, every month, priorities first!

The problem I'm facing, and the one I need advice on, is if I do totally tear this truck down to the frame, how do I do a MINIMAL restore on it? I can't sink a ton of money into this one

Still do it the same way. Only in this case, just like you stated, you are looking at just what needs done to make it safe, road worthy, and drivable.

My thoughts on a budget build:

1) Tear apart the 350, clean it up, check for any damages, replace minimal parts like piston rings, bearings, etc... Make sure the four speed, granny low, trans is well lubed and got good oil in it.
Does the engine really need to be torn down? Does it run now? How well? Does it smoke? Or does it run fine and just need a bath and some paint, maybe a few gaskets to fix leaks?

2) Replace bushings and shocks
Shock yes. Are the bushings broken down and pushed out, or just plain old? My truck has the original 200,000 mile + bushings in the front and are still OK for now. They will definitely be replaced later, but they are safe and functional for now. And it still rides real nice.

3) Sand blast and Rattle can epoxy (POR15 or Eastwood?) everything on the frame and suspension
A budget build would be some Purple Cleaner, wire wheels on a drill, a pressure washer, and black rattle cans.

4) Practice on the cab, fenders, wheel wells, and hood for welding, sanding and painting
Best budget practice ever!

5) Rustoleum (cheap) paint the truck
Doesn't get any more budget minded than that!

6) Practice the dash pad repair then replace

7) Build a custom, low-profile, wooden flat-bed
Wood bed = budget minded. Steel bed = not so much.

8) Use it when my other truck is down for repair, and run parts in it. Then when the other truck is fully restored, use it for helping people move and pulling trailers to keep my restored one pretty and perfect...

[ERBSIX]

Dead on man.

I'm the same way.

Unfortunately, I'm not as good at putting it down on paper,
but I'm a hardcore budgeter.

[glock35ipsc]

Waaay too many people think a budget = restricting my fun. Or worse, being frugal

In reality, it's simply telling your money where to go, instead of wondering where it went!

Kinda hard to do stuff with no money!

[ERBSIX]

Man, total Amen from here!

I can't stand the way people (these days?) think about money and are so irresponsible.

One of the main ways to save money, is drive older vehicles.

A major reason I want to do all the work on my truck myself, is the lifetime savings of knowing how to do it myself and not paying someone.

People think we put all this money into our trucks is a waste, but consider this:

1) 2010 Silverado 1/2 ton

Sticker: $25,000+
Actual cost after 5 year (60 month) loan: $40-$50,000
15-20 miles per gallon
Insurance payment: $100+ / month
Sales Tax: $1,000-$2,000
Personal Property Tax: $1,000+ / year

2) 1978 Silveardo 1/2 ton

Sticker: $3,000
Actual cost after 0 year loan: $3,000
15+ miles per gallon
Insurance payment: $15+ / month
Sales Tax: $100+
Personal Property Tax: $15+ / year

No Contest!

Even if you add $10,000 in tools to the cost of an old truck, it's no where close to costing the same.

LOVE IT! :-)

[RandyP]

Sounds like a commercial almost. Just add in a line of "waiting on the side of the road for your buddy with the tow strap.... priceless".

j/k of course. I was told years and years and years ago, buy a new car and keep it at least 10 years. Even with all the maintenance you have to do on a 10 year old car, it is like putting $10,000 in your pocket at the end of the 10 years. So just imagine starting with a 10 year old car. Even if you start right off the bat putting a new drivetrain in, you're still ahead of the money game for the long haul.

[glock35ipsc]

Oh, if only the majority of the county would have listened to us.....

[ERBSIX]

Try starting with a 32 year old truck. :-)

My price was $3,000 for a truck with all new sheet metal.
The drive train was another $2,000 and it is brand new.

I bought one for $400 with a working drive train.
Sure, it's beat all to crap (pictures above) but it runs.

I don't understand when the shift occurred that kids cared
more about how the car looked, than how it ran. (And I'm only 26!!!)

Update: Wow... Crazy off topic. :-) Oh well glock is the moderator!

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by ERBSIX

Update: Wow... Crazy off topic. :-) Oh well glock is the moderator!

OK, I'll behave now!

Good advise burger!

[ERBSIX]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

OK, I'll behave now!

true dat

Anyway. All good advice.

I can't wait to start taking this truck apart.

I'm going to video and photograph the process to show new people how to do it.

1) Removing the engine without the transmission

1.a) Will add details on how to remove it with the tranny, as that's easier, but you need to remove the front clip

2) Removing the front clip intact

3) Disassembling the front clip

3.a) Doing this before or after you've got it off the truck is about the same, but I'll video doing it after

4) Removing the cab

5) Removing the bed

6) Remove all the suspension components

Anyway. That's the plan.
Then I'll have photo and video documentation for everyone, and for me when I go to do it again.

[burger]

Have you thought about using automotive-grade paint on the body instead of Rustoleum?

There are a ton of places one the internet that will sell a gallon kit for less than $100. TCPGlobal sells a gallon kit for around $75. Here's a link:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspcolors.aspx

I know that's about four times the cost of Rustoleum, but it's still pretty cheap and the results will be at least four times better. Plus, you'll get the experience of shooting real paint, which is what I assume you want to do with your 1/2-ton.


Just my two cents...
Ed

[ERBSIX]

Originally Posted by burger

I know that's about four times the cost of Rustoleum, but it's still pretty cheap and the results will be at least four times better. Plus, you'll get the experience of shooting real paint, which is what I assume you want to do with your 1/2-ton.

Yessir. Thank You.