Testing Windshield Wiper Motors

[LockDoc]

I am posting this in a new thread so it can be added to the FAQ section. It is instructions for testing the wiper motor out of the vehicle. I made up some jumper wires with spade terminals and/or alligator clips to make the hookups easier. Watch out for the rotating arm when you make the connections, it can wind the wires up pretty quickly...... The 2 speed wipers for the '67-'72 trucks are about half way down.
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Article from Ray’s Chevy Restoration Site
http://rmcavoy.freeshell.org/electrical.html

Q - How is the windshield wiper motor wired ? How can the circuit be tested ?

A - Single speed wipers were base equipment on most early 60's GM vehicles. They have one (fused) power wire that is connected directly to the wiper motor. This wire is live whenever the ignition switch is on. A second wire connects the motor to the switch on the dash. When the wiper switch is turned on, it completes the circuit to ground (the dash). The single speed motor can be tested using the following procedure:

* Use a test light (or voltmeter) to check for power at the wiper motor. Do this with the ignition switch on (wiper switch can be on or off). No power at the motor is an indication of a bad fuse and/or wiring.

* Next, (with the ign switch still on) connect a jumper wire from the switch terminal on the motor to ground. That should cause the motor to run. If it doesn't then the motor is probably faulty.

* Finally, the wiper switch can be tested with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Also make sure that paint or corrosion isn't keeping the switch housing from properly grounding to the dash.

Two speed wipers with washers were available as optional equipment on early 60's GM vehicles. They became standard equipment in 1965 or 1966. This system still uses the same basic wiring principles as the single speed wipers. There is still a power wire that feeds the wiper motor whenever the ignition switch is on. Except now there are three wires going to the switch. The switch grounds one wire for high speed operation. Two wires are grounded for low speed operation. The third wire grounds the washer solenoid to activate the washers. Note that many '75 and later vehicles used a small electric washer fluid pump mounted to the reservoir instead of the older wiper motor driven pump.

2-speed wiper motors - This is the '67-'72 wiper motor

There are also 3 types of 2-speed wiper motors. One is a non-depressed park motor that is easily identified by its rectangular motor case. Another is a depressed park motor that has a round motor case attached to the gearbox at an angle. The third is a permanent magnet motor that has sort of a rounded 6-sided motor case. The diagram below illustrates the non-depressed park (rectangular case) motor. The washer has been omitted for clarity. The depressed park (round case) motor uses the same wiring concept except the terminals on the motor are arranged in a different order (3 Low, 2 Power, and 1 High). The permanent magnet motor (used primarily on 1978 & newer GM pick-up trucks) has separate terminals for the park switch and therefore uses a different wiring setup.

Testing the wiper motor independent of the switch: (in or out of the vehicle)

The depressed park and non-depressed park 2-speed wiper motors can be bench tested independent of the dash switch by making the following connections:

* Ground the wiper motor housing.

* Connect a jumper wire from a +12V source to the #2 (Power) terminal on the wiper motor. It's the bottom terminal on the rectangular motor or the middle terminal on the round motor.

* Connect a jumper wire from ground to the #1 (High) terminal on the wiper motor. It's the middle terminal on the rectangular motor or the bottom terminal on the round motor. This should operate the motor at high speed.

* Leaving the above connections in place, add an additional jumper wire between the #1 (High) and #3 (Low) terminal. #3 is the top terminal on both the rectangular and round motors. This should operate the motor at low speed.

* On the rectangular case motor, leave the jumper between terminals #1 and #3 but disconnect it from ground. That should cause the motor to run (at low speed) until it reaches its park position at which point it should stop.

* On the round case motor, leave terminal #3 grounded but unhook the ground jumper from terminal #1. That should cause the motor to run (at low speed) until it reaches its park position at which point it should stop.

If the motor operates normally in the above tests but not when installed on the vehicle then the problem is most likely in the switch or maybe the wiring. Also, the switch has to be grounded to the dash or the wiper will not work. Don't forget to check the fuse. The switch can be tested with an ohmmeter.

If the motor stops immediately when switched off (doesn't return to park position), first check the motor's ground strap. Since the motor is mounted on rubber cushions, it's grounded via a copper strap attached under one of the mounting screws. This is the ground for the park switch so the parking feature won't operate if the ground strap is missing, dirty, or corroded. If the ground strap checks out okay but the motor still doesn't go into park then the problem is most likely a worn out or dirty park switch. The park switch is located inside the motor's gearbox so some disassembly is required to check/clean the switch. I recommend consulting a good repair manual for the motor disassembly procedure.

LockDoc

[Longhorn Man]

outstanding! I have it in the electrical FAQ now.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

outstanding! I have it in the electrical FAQ now.

Thanks Andy...

LockDoc

[72BlckButy]

Awesome writeup Leon!

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice job Leon!

[eightbanger]

Thanks Leon, now I know why my wipers don't park themselves at the bottom of the windshield.

[rakerkman]

Originally Posted by eightbanger

Thanks Leon, now I know why my wipers don't park themselves at the bottom of the windshield.

Thanks Leon, I have the same problem eightbanger had. Now I have something to work on tomorrow.

[LockDoc]

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Thanks guys. Glad it's helping out with the wiper problems...

lockDoc

[70cst]

Another master piece to add to the library. Great job and info.

[VetteVet]

Glad to see this one going into the FAQs, I have been linking Rays website for quite a while.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Nice.

[Bruce88]

A very good and needed write up on testing the wiper motors (Thank you)

I have some additional information included on my build thread that might be of interest to you or others in troubleshooting their possible problems or wiring the system for a 67 – 72 Chevy truck (post #527) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=22

I did barrowed the wiring drawing picture in your post to help clarify/understand my post better, hope you don’t mind and also created a link to your post in mine.

Bruce

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

A very good and needed write up on testing the wiper motors (Thank you)

I have some additional information included on my build thread that might be of interest to you or others in troubleshooting their possible problems or wiring the system for a 67 – 72 Chevy truck (post #527) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=22

I did barrowed the wiring drawing picture in your post to help clarify/understand my post better, hope you don’t mind and also created a link to your post in mine.

Bruce

No problem Bruce. The more the info is spread around the easier it is to find..

LockDoc

[Daddy Brim]

Thanks this helps alot ,I'm in the middel of replacing the wireing harness in my 67 was not sure if the wiper motor even worked. I'm going to test mine right now.

[Alan's Classic]

Subscribing for future use. Nice work!!

[CEE1NG_RED]

[passthebuck]

Wiper motors have always been black magic to me. Thanks very much!

[rogergodding]

Finally got around to replacing the bad wiper motor, now we have working wipers that don't park on a new motor....

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by rogergodding

Finally got around to replacing the bad wiper motor, now we have working wipers that don't park on a new motor....

If you have a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends clip one end to the wiper motor (you will need bare metal to clip it to, but not the mounting bolts) and the other end to a good ground on the dash (clean metal) then turn it on and see if it will park. It is very important to have bare metal on both ends.

Let me know what happens.

LockDoc

[rogergodding]

Thanks Doc, will try tomorrow....

[rogergodding]

Tried to ground it with clips, still no park. I may pull the motor back out, scrape off any paint that may be the culprit.... who knows.... motor from Oreilly's might just have a bad park switch anyway.....

[LockDoc]

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I think One of the mounting bolt holes should have a brass washer with a strap that grounds to the wiper motor.

LockDoc

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I think One of the mounting bolt holes should have a brass washer with a strap that grounds to the wiper motor.

LockDoc

This is missing from my setup and my wipers don't park when I turn them off. When running a new ground strap, where did you guys attach it to the motor? Can I just attach it to anywhere on the wiper motor that offers a good spot of bare metal?

Thanks for this useful thread and the help with the wipers!

[66_c10_tpi]

The truck is a 1970. I will try to post a picture but have not done it before. Hope it works.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 66_c10_tpi

The truck is a 1970. I will try to post a picture but have not done it before. Hope it works.

It came through fine.... Plug the double black connector onto the two center terminals and the single black connector to the terminal on the left in the picture. The extra terminal on the right side is for the earlier trucks. (before '67)

LockDoc