Factory AC into non AC cab

[Overdrive]

Does anybody have a full list of all the parts needed to add factory AC into a non-AC cab?

I would like to add AC to my '67, and I've looked into the aftermarket kits, and none of them have outside air intakes, which is a problem for me, as its quite humid and cool here, and using recirculated air for defrost = more frosty windows. I'm not going to be picky for under the hood equipment, so I'm open to use late model parts there, as required, but under the dash, firewall and controls stuff is what I'm interested in. I'm likely going to have to do a mix of repop, aftermarket and used parts, but I'm starting from scratch.

[john]

Heres a firewall pic to show differences between A/C and non A/C cabs. It is possible to convert cab to A/C, look in the parts section to find used parts.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by john

Heres a firewall pic to show differences between A/C and non A/C cabs. It is possible to convert cab to A/C, look in the parts section to find used parts.

Thanks, John. I'm right in the middle of a nasty job. That is, pulling everything out of a '71 donor air cab for use in a rust-free (Hey! What's THAT?) '68 non-air cab.

So far, everything's almost out, including the wiring. I was glad to see the picture of the differences in the holes in the firewall, and looked at the links, but didn't find any suggestions as to the best way to go about the switch-over.

Would you suggest cutting out the panel on the '71 air cab and welding into the '68 cab's firewall? Bummer for me...No sense of how to do any of that. I'm like a lot of "trained" mechanics these days: I know how to take parts off and put them back on. But the fabrication, although fun and rewarding, takes more than time and patience. It's an art.

I had Vintage Air in my '72, and installed it myself. It worked great for two weeks, froze up and left me hot. Not Vintage Air's fault. I'm sure I did $omething $tupid...Like overfill or..... $omething very expen$ive.

So, I have all the stock stuff and I'm cleaning it up and looking for a few parts (the driver's side part of the fiberglass enclosure box is broken off where a relay (I think) had a bolt hole that must have been used by someone to hang their laundry on...Or step on to wash the roof while the hood was off. Something like that. So, if anyone has that half for sale, that would be great.

In the meantime, if there are any tips on a method to swap the sheet metal, or any other "pitfalls", I'd be really happy to hear them.

By the way, I went into see the guys at Early Classic Enterprises today. Bought some window felt and rubber for two doors. We laughed at me not being able to stay away from the trucks.....What a place. What great guys.

My '72 is on their page of Reader's Rides under "Bill Keener". I miss that truck.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Here's the '68.

[48richard]

I just did exactly what you are proposing. If you pm your email I can sent you my parts list tonight. Don't expect to save any money over an aftermarket kit, but for all the reasons you gave, I still think it is the right way to go.

[Twisted78SS]

For a visual reference, starting on this page - http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=126

you can see most of what you will need under the dash.

[magicoolbus]

I've heard that using an aftermarket a/c like VA or Oldair will not help in defrosting windows because it recirculates the air. Perhaps someone could explain this to me!
Air conditioners do just that, they condition the air by removing the moisture in addition to cooling it. In a closed system, like VA, the air is conditioned and the air directed at the windows should remove the fogging. If the outside air is mixed with this air, like in a factory set up, isn't it just adding more moist air to remove???

[69sixpackbee]

Read my response to this thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417577

[cparman]

69 1/2 has a good point, but like someone posted on his thread, if you fiddle with the temp you can accomplish what you are after. The factory systems IMO do not push enough volume of air to overcome the deep south heat in the summer, where the better aftermarket stuff will blow you out of the cab. I installed a Classic auto air system in my 69, and was very happy. Live in Florida, and was looking for the 35-40 degree vent temp more than the defrost issue. When I installed my system, I kept the fresh air vents working so I could "adjust" the fresh air thing inside the cab on those days that were between the need for cold, and making the inside of my truck so cold that it was too cold. Never though I would write that living here!

[48richard]

When I converted my 71, I cut the firewall where needed, but did not patch the old opening, since it is covered by the evaporator box and sealed with the gasket. You can see photos in my thread "Installing Air Conditioning in a 71"

[69sixpackbee]

I just cut the firewall section out of a donor A/C cab and grafted it to my cab with silicone and blind rivets. Works fine and besides, you never see it!

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by cparman

69 1/2 has a good point, but like someone posted on his thread, if you fiddle with the temp you can accomplish what you are after. The factory systems IMO do not push enough volume of air to overcome the deep south heat in the summer, where the better aftermarket stuff will blow you out of the cab. I installed a Classic auto air system in my 69, and was very happy. Live in Florida, and was looking for the 35-40 degree vent temp more than the defrost issue. When I installed my system, I kept the fresh air vents working so I could "adjust" the fresh air thing inside the cab on those days that were between the need for cold, and making the inside of my truck so cold that it was too cold. Never though I would write that living here!

In Florida you can, but not in the great white north. Some OEM (the Neon come to mind) have a separate recirc/fresh air switch. Each and every one states in the manual not to ever run the recirc in heat mode. Why? Because it will fog the windows in northern climates.

The vents would help with the fogging issue, but you would also have raw cold air blowing on your leg. Ever have 0 degree air blowing on your leg for 20 miles? I have. I'll pass on doing this on purpose.

Of course the fogging thing only applies to those of us that are willing to "enhance our rust" by driving on salted winter roads.

[Andy4639]

My 71 has a complete running 134-A system in it. I swaped the whole system over to mine out of another 71. After I ran it for a while I upgraded everything to 134-A. I then ran it for several years then bought a sanderson compressor, condensor, dryer and haven't had any problems what so ever out of it. I did away with the POA valve and it works great, just put the orffice in line and it's done it don't get no simpler. I ribeted the fire wall up and re cut it to the drawing showed and it's worked great. Coming into work today it was 92 degree's out side and 35 degree's inside.

You can see all of it here.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

[B][COLOR="Red"]My 71 has a complete running 134-A system in it. I swaped the whole system over to mine out of another 71. After I ran it for a while I upgraded everything to 134-A. I then ran it for several years then bought a sanderson compressor, condensor, dryer and haven't had any problems what so ever out of it. I did away with the POA valve and it works great, just put the orffice in line and it's done it don't get no simpler.

Nice. I did something similar to what you did by installing the same design drier directly to the evap core; the factory hose hooked right up to it. I stayed with the old compressor for now, but I love the compressor you have and I want one but plan to change to serpentine so holding off for now.

I put a larger condenser out of a Camaro on it and spliced in some used lines that I had accumulated. I put a cycling switch on the drier, and used a GM inline filter with a built in orfice tube all in one. I'm still on R12 but only have a few cans left so I'm going to have to change to 134A and do something different in terms of orfice size and probably a new condenser.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

[B][COLOR="Red"]My 71

Oh wow just noticed the TPI, the radiator overflow on the fenderwell, and the fresh air intake hose (I assume you are running a speed density map sensor system).

I like your style. Mind telling me what the overflow jug is off of?

[cparman]

Thanks!! I learned something tonight! Never had 0 temp on me EVER!! Bet ya never had 110 humiture blowing on you all day long!! we had 50 days this summer with the heat index 105-110. I will not attribute that to Al Gore in any way. Just a red hot summer in NE FL!

Alot of Late model cars have a recirc switches. never get turned off here. I will say that when driving my 69, the windshield would frost in a small area at the base of the windshield. A badge of honor after being in my shop all day.

Chip

Originally Posted by ERASER5

In Florida you can, but not in the great white north. Some OEM (the Neon come to mind) have a separate recirc/fresh air switch. Each and every one states in the manual not to ever run the recirc in heat mode. Why? Because it will fog the windows in northern climates.

The vents would help with the fogging issue, but you would also have raw cold air blowing on your leg. Ever have 0 degree air blowing on your leg for 20 miles? I have. I'll pass on doing this on purpose.

Of course the fogging thing only applies to those of us that are willing to "enhance our rust" by driving on salted winter roads.