Junk yard a/c conversion

[jojo]

I'd like to get your thoughts on piecing together an a/c system from junk yard exploration.. Of course it would be off our period trucks.

What if I found a mostly complete a/c system at the bone yard?

Can I realistically do a conversion this way (without breaking the bank)?

Has anybody else done this?

[onetoncrewcab]

I see a couple of things why you may want to rethink this:

1. I cannot believe that the AC components for one of these trucks are going to be that plentiful in a junkyard.

2. You are going to get a system designed for R12 instead of the newer R134. R12 is near obsolete anymore. You could probably convert whatever you need to, to get it to run R134, but why would you? By the time you paid for the junkyard parts and buy the new components for the R134 conversion, my guess is that you could have bought a new aftermarket system and been done. There are cheap "conversion kits" available to replace the R12 with R134, but I think to do it right, some expensive hardware needs to be replaced too.

Those are just two of the major things that I can think of. For around $1000, you can go new and be done.

Here is a website I found of some conversion tips. This is a pro-you-don't-need-to-replace-any-hardware viewpoint:

http://www.teamchicago.com/imperial/imp-ac.htm

One guy spent over $500 converting his car over to R134.

Mike

[low'n slow]

It can be done on the cheap. The conversion to R134 is not that expensive. You could be in it a lot less than $1000. However, thius would be the time to upgrade to a newer compressor. Any local A/C shop or major auto parts store (NAPA, etc) can usually fab up the hoses.

Make sure you get the flap from the cowl area and the passenger side vent.

[onetoncrewcab]

Originally Posted by low'n slow

It can be done on the cheap. The conversion to R134 is not that expensive. You could be in it a lot less than $1000. However, thius would be the time to upgrade to a newer compressor. Any local A/C shop or major auto parts store (NAPA, etc) can usually fab up the hoses.

Make sure you get the flap from the cowl area and the passenger side vent.

No offense to low'n slow...but that is what I am talking about...

A reman compressor on-line at Advance Auto Parts is $240...granted...you may be able to save a few buck by shopping around, but lets go with the $240 figure.

Throw in some new hoses now and incendentals (o-rings). For the sake of argument...lets say $100.

Toss in the conversion kit. No idea how much.

Some places recommend replacing the accumulator/drier...

By the time you spend hours pulling parts off of some junker pickup and screwing around trying to make it all work....I think you are going to be over $500 by the time you get done and half new parts in the system anyway.

But that is just my thoughts....

Mike

[ERASER5]

Being that the PO is from Texas, I agree. Buy and after market. There is a lot to change a non-AC cab into a factory AC cab.

Me being in Indiana, I do have reasons to want factory AC over aftermarket. It is all about what your needs.

[nyncompute]

I'm by no means an expert on A/C . The conventional wisdom Ive gleaned from reading all the forums on this topic.
-Can be an economical and good sense idea if you have the 4 seasons type unit already , to keep it. Some say even stay with r12 as its price has stabilized a bit. If not an a/c truck, as stated might be wiser to buy a kit.
- According to sources on the auto a/c forum: the units originally on these trucks is thought to be one of the best systems ever designed. But some of the new kits get rave reviews and are relatively easy to put in.

[Bad70sbchevy]

Well, there is a very cheap (and ghetto) way to do it. All you need is a window unit ac and a power inverter...

[rsavage]

I bought a very rusty C20 with air as a parts truck for $500 a couple of years ago. The only good sheet metal was the hood. However it had a complete working ac system, a good running 70 350, a TH350 and a cruise control. I sold the TH350, kept the 350, sold the cruise (PO kept the tilt column with the switch), kept the PS and PB setups, kept the 4 core radiator clutch fan, etc., sold other misc. pieces and scrapped the rest. All the AC parts I needed ended up costing me $0. There is a ton of stuff you need - lots of little bits so -it's a lot easier to do if you can find a single complete donor reasonably.

[1stimer]

I've been a long time member of a a mercedes forum. The general wisdom over there is NOT to convert an R12 system to R134. You can buy R12 legally if you take a test from this website http://www.macsw.org/AM/Template.cfm...on=Section_609

....I think it is $20.

OR....you can just buy it on e-bay by stating that you are going to have it installed by a trained tech.

[Nat11]

Has anybody reused a condensor off another vehicle on a 47ish Chevy pickup?

[motorcritter]

The size and hookups are probably the only things to be concerned with. A/C stuff can be mixed and matched, up to a point. Converting these older systems from POA to orifice tube, and variable capacity compressors is pretty straightforward, if you know your way around mobile A/C systems.
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[Mapearso]

Thanks guys, this is a helpful thread...

So from what I am reading.... I can pull a system off a mid/late 70s truck in the yard and use it on my truck? Are the key parts such as the compressor and drier the same as on our 67-72s??

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

Thanks guys, this is a helpful thread...

So from what I am reading.... I can pull a system off a mid/late 70s truck in the yard and use it on my truck? Are the key parts such as the compressor and drier the same as on our 67-72s??

I don't think so. You really need a 68-72 Condenser to fit the core support although later may fit. You could use a 73+ outer box, but the later inside box wont fit. It is really jammed under the dash of a 67-72 and uses soft hoses to the vents where the 73+ is hard ducts. The compressor and brackets for later will work if you change to a long water pump-but the A6 compressor is a HP hog and the newer R4 compressors need at least monthly use or they will leak. Even if the soft hoses fit I would not use them-get new hoses. If I were doing this I would find a stock 67-72 inside box and controls; new Condenser; and new Sanden compressor, hose, and brackets. On the outside box stock 67-72 with POA valve or 77-87 with cycling system and accumulator instead of dryer. IMHO 73-76 with dryer and expansion valve is not worth the hassle. I have successfully converted POA systems to cycling with happy customers, but there are many I have read about that did not like it.