Drop the tank or raise the bed? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

87Bob · 09-09-2010, 07:38 PM

Recently on my 85 the fuel gauge quit working. It may be just a bad ground. Since the ground wire goes from the sender to the frame and is on the top how can I get to it to check it? Do I drop the tank or raise the bed?

Davidmichael · 09-09-2010, 08:12 PM

I would drop the tank but that's just me. I found it easier since I do not have a hoist or any kind of pulley crane set up.

82swampthing · 09-09-2010, 08:37 PM

drop the tank the sending unit is under the cab anyway at least its that way on my 82.

benoit454 · 09-09-2010, 08:51 PM

agreed drop the tank, the sending unit is pretty much all under the cab, that way on a 76 c10 ps tank, ds tank on 84 c10 and ds tank on 86 k10.

87Bob · 09-09-2010, 09:06 PM

After my first post I got looking at the situtation. If you drop the tank how do you disconnect the fuel lines that are hooked to the top of the tank with out damaging them? They run accross the frame support! I'm hoping that someone who has actually done this will chime in.

wyattglock · 09-09-2010, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87Bob

After my first post I got looking at the situtation. If you drop the tank how do you disconnect the fuel lines that are hooked to the top of the tank with out damaging them? They run accross the frame support! I'm hoping that someone who has actually done this will chime in.

When I had to drop my fuel tanks, I got two of the 2 foot 3/8 extensions and put the socket on the bolt while my friend dropped the extensions down from the bed. This allowed us to remove the bolts with a ratchet instead of trying to turn the bolt out 1/8th of a turn at a time. But I am not sure if the crew cab dual tank setup is different than your truck. Look between the cab and the bed while standing in the bed and you might be able to see the 10mm bolts that hold the hard lines to the frame. I temporarily rigged a strap to the crossmember to hold the lines in place so they aren't hanging loose.

benoit454 · 09-09-2010, 10:06 PM

Well you have to let it come down far enough to get in there to unhook them if there's enough rubber line, if not then you'll have to bend the lines out to get to them and take them loose, or you'll have to cut the rubber line.

If not then if yours is like old mans 84, they are rubber on top of the sending unit, then metal all the way to the PS then rubber, then metal to the fuel pump, well maybe you can take them loose on that side and snake the lines out and down with the tank.

tucsonjwt · 09-09-2010, 10:35 PM

Check this thread for some pics of the tank and fuel line set up. I have an 83 C20 with dual tanks, but I had a 73 and 76 with single tanks and the senders were in the same place.:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=tucsonjwt
I have a dump bed conversion on my truck, so I just raised the bed to install new sending units and rubber hoses/clamps. On my 73 and 76 I dropped the tanks. If you use some concrete blocks and 2 x 4s to snug up against the tanks before your remove the bolts, then you can slip out pieces of 2 x 4 one at a time until you can reach the ground wire. You can drop the rear of the tank more than the front, which allows you to see where the ground is and get some tools in there. Removing the bed gives you the best access, but if you have rusted bolts and nuts they may break off, or the bolt can spin in the square bed hole - you might end up needing new bed bolts and some repairs as a worst case.
I have never had a bad ground on any of my squares. All had gauges that did not work. It was sending units on the 73 and 76, and fuel gauge on the 83. The fuel gauge is easy to replace (remove dash pad, instrument bezel, plastic lens , and metal cover, pull out gauge to unplug, install new gauge.) I always recommend trying to install a new gauge first if you can get your hands on a known good gauge. Or buy a new gauge ($50) and return it if it is not the fix, or sell it on ebay.
Sending units cost about the same, unless you go OEM, which are like $160+. The aftermarket sending units will cause your gauge to bounce when you drive down the road and hit a bump or take a turn, but they are accurate when you are sitting still (Spectra brand).

benoit454 · 09-09-2010, 11:03 PM

every gm fuel gauge we have does the same thing, it always bounces around and it's even all stock gm stuff, 84 c10, 99 k1500 2000 monte carlo, 85 monte carlo and 86 k10 we owned.

Looks like enough room to work on them with the bed off, but I think it's easier to drop an empty or close to it tank then pull the bed. However it does let you have an excuse to clean and paint the frame, rear end and under bed when it's off LOL.

dman1982 · 09-10-2010, 04:30 PM

i just dropped my tank last week....your gonna mess the lines up..(id get new ones anyways and clamps)....its not bad...just got make the lines a little bit longer than what was on there before...easy fix...just drop the tank.

mooseknuckles · 09-10-2010, 05:47 PM

IMO I'd take the bed off, mine has four bolts (cause its off so much) and I lift it with a cherry-picker, and my sending unit is right at the back of the cab. I've never had my tank off, but the tank straps look really rusty and hard to get at, plus my truck is low so its less work for me to pull the bed.

HOGDADDY · 09-11-2010, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

IMO I'd take the bed off, mine has four bolts (cause its off so much) and I lift it with a cherry-picker, and my sending unit is right at the back of the cab. I've never had my tank off, but the tank straps look really rusty and hard to get at, plus my truck is low so its less work for me to pull the bed.

^+2 so much easier and you will not have to do any cussing.

by taking the bed off first imho.

Acrophobia · 09-11-2010, 02:52 PM

I just replaced my tank and sending unit on my 86 SWB. Save yourself alot of

and just pull the bed off.

benoit454 · 09-11-2010, 03:09 PM

beds are harder to remove then tanks. If the bolt spins you gotta find a way to stop it, weld it to the bed, cut the head off or down to fit a wrench, something. Then you have to lift it off. if you don't have a picker or hoist you gotta get some friends or at least some blocks and boards.

BigBlocksRule · 09-11-2010, 03:37 PM

Don't have to pull the bed completely off - take the bolts completely out on the tank side and leave 'em about 2 -3 full threads in on the other side. Raise the tank side and block it up while you work.

Buick455 · 09-11-2010, 08:15 PM

On an 87 the sending unit is under the bed on the pre 87 models it is under the cab. I just took my 86 bed off today and it took most of the day so if it was me I would drop the tank.
FYI: I made a spreader beam to take the bed off so that did take an extra hour or so. I also heated each nut before I attempted to turn them which made it easier to remove the nuts ( did not do this on the first one and was a PITA as the head turned) . I used a welding magnet to hold the head of the bolt in place so it did not turn.

09-09-2010, 07:38 PM	#1
87Bob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Franklin Indiana Posts: 635	Drop the tank or raise the bed? Recently on my 85 the fuel gauge quit working. It may be just a bad ground. Since the ground wire goes from the sender to the frame and is on the top how can I get to it to check it? Do I drop the tank or raise the bed? __________________ My Truck's not leaking its marking its territory!

09-09-2010, 08:12 PM	#2
Davidmichael Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Pittsburgh PA Posts: 686	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? I would drop the tank but that's just me. I found it easier since I do not have a hoist or any kind of pulley crane set up. __________________ 86 Suburban 2WD = rolled it and totaled it 83 LWB STD Cab 4x4 = went to the scrapper. Was my baby. 84 Suburban 2WD = stripped it/ scrapped it 81 8 foot bed made into a trailer 86 Suburban going to be made into a trailer 91 Suburban 4x4 = that's my baby 00 S10 Xtreme STD Cab 01 S10 ZR2

09-09-2010, 08:37 PM	#3
82swampthing Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: taxachusetts Posts: 138	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? drop the tank the sending unit is under the cab anyway at least its that way on my 82. __________________ R.I.P gm 1908-1986 1982 chevy k20,350,sm465,np205,10bolt and 14bolt s.f

09-09-2010, 08:51 PM	#4
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? agreed drop the tank, the sending unit is pretty much all under the cab, that way on a 76 c10 ps tank, ds tank on 84 c10 and ds tank on 86 k10. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

09-09-2010, 09:06 PM	#5
87Bob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Franklin Indiana Posts: 635	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? After my first post I got looking at the situtation. If you drop the tank how do you disconnect the fuel lines that are hooked to the top of the tank with out damaging them? They run accross the frame support! I'm hoping that someone who has actually done this will chime in. __________________ My Truck's not leaking its marking its territory! Last edited by 87Bob; 09-09-2010 at 09:07 PM.

09-09-2010, 10:06 PM	#7
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? Well you have to let it come down far enough to get in there to unhook them if there's enough rubber line, if not then you'll have to bend the lines out to get to them and take them loose, or you'll have to cut the rubber line. If not then if yours is like old mans 84, they are rubber on top of the sending unit, then metal all the way to the PS then rubber, then metal to the fuel pump, well maybe you can take them loose on that side and snake the lines out and down with the tank. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

09-09-2010, 10:35 PM	#8
tucsonjwt Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 3,189	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? Check this thread for some pics of the tank and fuel line set up. I have an 83 C20 with dual tanks, but I had a 73 and 76 with single tanks and the senders were in the same place.: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=tucsonjwt I have a dump bed conversion on my truck, so I just raised the bed to install new sending units and rubber hoses/clamps. On my 73 and 76 I dropped the tanks. If you use some concrete blocks and 2 x 4s to snug up against the tanks before your remove the bolts, then you can slip out pieces of 2 x 4 one at a time until you can reach the ground wire. You can drop the rear of the tank more than the front, which allows you to see where the ground is and get some tools in there. Removing the bed gives you the best access, but if you have rusted bolts and nuts they may break off, or the bolt can spin in the square bed hole - you might end up needing new bed bolts and some repairs as a worst case. I have never had a bad ground on any of my squares. All had gauges that did not work. It was sending units on the 73 and 76, and fuel gauge on the 83. The fuel gauge is easy to replace (remove dash pad, instrument bezel, plastic lens , and metal cover, pull out gauge to unplug, install new gauge.) I always recommend trying to install a new gauge first if you can get your hands on a known good gauge. Or buy a new gauge ($50) and return it if it is not the fix, or sell it on ebay. Sending units cost about the same, unless you go OEM, which are like $160+. The aftermarket sending units will cause your gauge to bounce when you drive down the road and hit a bump or take a turn, but they are accurate when you are sitting still (Spectra brand).

09-09-2010, 11:03 PM	#9
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? every gm fuel gauge we have does the same thing, it always bounces around and it's even all stock gm stuff, 84 c10, 99 k1500 2000 monte carlo, 85 monte carlo and 86 k10 we owned. Looks like enough room to work on them with the bed off, but I think it's easier to drop an empty or close to it tank then pull the bed. However it does let you have an excuse to clean and paint the frame, rear end and under bed when it's off LOL. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

09-10-2010, 04:30 PM	#10
dman1982 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: jacksonville nc Posts: 1,229	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? i just dropped my tank last week....your gonna mess the lines up..(id get new ones anyways and clamps)....its not bad...just got make the lines a little bit longer than what was on there before...easy fix...just drop the tank.

09-10-2010, 05:47 PM	#11
mooseknuckles Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: ottawa,canada Posts: 4,550	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? IMO I'd take the bed off, mine has four bolts (cause its off so much) and I lift it with a cherry-picker, and my sending unit is right at the back of the cab. I've never had my tank off, but the tank straps look really rusty and hard to get at, plus my truck is low so its less work for me to pull the bed.

09-11-2010, 02:52 PM	#13
Acrophobia Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: New Port Richey, Fl Posts: 92	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? I just replaced my tank and sending unit on my 86 SWB. Save yourself alot of and just pull the bed off.

09-11-2010, 03:09 PM	#14
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? beds are harder to remove then tanks. If the bolt spins you gotta find a way to stop it, weld it to the bed, cut the head off or down to fit a wrench, something. Then you have to lift it off. if you don't have a picker or hoist you gotta get some friends or at least some blocks and boards. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

09-11-2010, 03:37 PM	#15
BigBlocksRule Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Lubbock, TX Posts: 2,047	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? Don't have to pull the bed completely off - take the bolts completely out on the tank side and leave 'em about 2 -3 full threads in on the other side. Raise the tank side and block it up while you work.

09-11-2010, 08:15 PM	#16
Buick455 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Amherst VA Posts: 150	Re: Drop the tank or raise the bed? On an 87 the sending unit is under the bed on the pre 87 models it is under the cab. I just took my 86 bed off today and it took most of the day so if it was me I would drop the tank. FYI: I made a spreader beam to take the bed off so that did take an extra hour or so. I also heated each nut before I attempted to turn them which made it easier to remove the nuts ( did not do this on the first one and was a PITA as the head turned) . I used a welding magnet to hold the head of the bolt in place so it did not turn.



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