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#1 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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I have my bags and switches, tanks etc... need advice for install.
My question is can I run the ground to the push button momentary switches instead of the power wire? Also anyone know where I can get nice billet LED "mini" pushbutton momentary switches? REAR BAG SPACERS? NOT ANOUGH LIFT maxium lift problem? Without a c-notch I noticed that the bags will not compress all the way when the u bolts are sitting on the cut factory bump stops. My idea is to shim the rear bags untill they are like a 1/4" from bottoming out the bag. When sitting on the rear bump stops. Then I will acheive maxium travel and lift out of the rear bags? Then when I get my c-notch I'll take the shims/spacers out from under the rear bags. What are all your thoughts on this? I will be taking alot of pictures of the install. I bought bags, valves and compressors from Larry at Innovative http://www.innovativeairsuspension.com/ And a bunch of stuff from Dave at Early Classics http://www.earlyclassic.com/ hidden hitch, panhard kit,shock relocator kit.........
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#2 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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Help Slammed 67/XXL? Bag guys? Throw me a bone here people! LOL
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#3 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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Yeah, you can shim up the rear bags. I think some kits come with brackets for the rear bags, which will raise them also. Did you buy a kit or are you going to make up your own brackets? I think you'll find that without shimming up the rear bags, the front will sit higher than the rear at ride height anyway. That is the problem I'm encountering. I could shim my rear bags up, but I want maximum DROP, not maximum LIFT. Therefore, I'm gonna notch my front cross member to bring the front down a little to even it out. As for wiring the switches, you could run the grounds to the switches, but it'll be the same amount of wire, so I'm not sure what the advantage is.
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: huntington,texas,united states
Posts: 399
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why does it matter if the bag is bottomed out or not? its not gonna make a difference
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1972 chevy long bed. Currently under construction!! Bagged, 383/700r4. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: huntington,texas,united states
Posts: 399
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oh i think i misunderstood that question
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1972 chevy long bed. Currently under construction!! Bagged, 383/700r4. |
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#6 |
senior member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: fort macleod alberta
Posts: 2,770
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i think you did haha have to post pics when u get it done
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69 GMC bagged |
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#7 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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TTT
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#8 |
It's a catastrophic success.
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,077
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On running the ground, if the solonoids have only one wire you will have to isolate them from the body, for the case is how it is designed to get its ground, if it has two , then its a matter of running a all time hot and putting a switch to ground to complete the curcuit
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#9 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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Picture of my valve set-up.
What your looking at are 3/8" valves, using high pressure crimp on 5000psi hose. The fittings are JIC/AN which ever term you use. #6 hose, and or 3/8" I plan on the front using 1/2" valves and hose.
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL Last edited by Reumster; 02-27-2003 at 04:44 PM. |
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#10 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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Ok I'm letting you all in on my new idea. This is my secret switch box. The board the mini momentary push button switches are mounted to is, G-10 Garolite black. This is just what I had at the time. I'm going to be using Carbon fiber eventually.
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#11 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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This is the ashtray out, and a sample piece of the Carbon material I'll be using, for the final product.
If anyone is interested I can whip these ashtray inserts up. My problem now is finding good quality mini push button momentary switches. I'd like to find billet ones.
__________________
Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#12 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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These Radio Shack switches in the picture in the ashtray suck! They stick. I need lower profile ones too. Anyone know where to get good ones? I can't wait to get my ALuminum tanks tommarrow. Then it's time to test.
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Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#13 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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Just curious....... Why not just use DOT approved air line and push-in fittings? I would think it'd be cheaper and easier to install than what you are using.
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#14 |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Thread hijack alert...
I just lost one corner of my air ride today. The right rear "up" is not responding. It's definitely the solenoid itself. I had this happen once before (when I first moved to MA in winter 2001) and Air Ride Technologies promptly replaced it with a brand new piece. I've pinged them via email about what to do with the one that's sticking now but I suspect they're going to tell me it's OOW (out of warranty). So... questions arise-- 1) has anyone else had this kind of failure problem, 2) what kind of valves should I use if I decide to toss the ART ones I have now, and 3) what's for lunch? ![]() I don't even dump the truck that often... maybe a couple of times per month, but I would like it to be VERY reliable (which it has been for the most part for the last 3 1/2 years). OK, next related topic. My pressure switch died as well. Any suggestions for an inexpensive 120 psi or so switch? BTW, for this whole thread, I suppose I should add... the truck is kept in a 50° garage-- except today, when I high-centered the truck on some snow in front of the garage. I was backing out and got it stuck on the center crossmember, so the truck sat half in and half out of the garage all day. It was about 25° F today. It is now back in the garage, hopefully getting warm and toasty. Kenneth
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#15 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Hey i'm a little late here, but I just have a question for Slammed67, you said the front will sit higher than the rear at ride height. Why is that, what about putting more air in the rear bags to level it out? Or am i missing something here?
Thanks Man Jared
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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#16 |
senior member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: fort macleod alberta
Posts: 2,770
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REUMSTER what kind of deck is that?
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69 GMC bagged |
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#17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntington Beach CA
Posts: 678
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Quote:
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#18 |
L.E.D. Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Polson MT
Posts: 1,358
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Ok now we're getting some knowledge on in this topic.
Slammed67 to answer your question about the crazy over kill hose. FREE!!!! LOL I made them at work. So you think the 4 wire hydralic hose is a tid bit overkill!! LOL ![]() XXL my valves are SMC that I got at http://www.innovativeairsuspension.com/ XXL did you put air tool oil in your compressor hose when you installed the comp for the first time? also put a drop or two in each valve on the in side before installing. Do you have drain valves on your tank/s? Do you have a oil/water seperator? Next I found some cool air gauges that I'll post pictures of soon. Any ideas on good temperary micro push button switches?
__________________
Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL |
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#19 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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JHickson6:
I could put more air in the rears but then it rides too rough. I could lower the front air pressure, but then again, I'd compromise my ride height. I could also shim my rear bags as Reumster mentioned, but then I'd lose my maximum DROP, which is one of the main reasons I got the bags in the first place. So the only solution I see is to drop the front more to level it out. I like the rear height at "ride height" so I'm gonna bring the front end down to match. Make sense?
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,977
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Ok, I learned this from XXL so you can blame him (how to hi-jack)....j/k.... Slammed, I'm curious, what psi are you running & what are the measurements @ the c/l of your wheel openings @ ride height. I want to compare to my set-up. Thanks, Scot
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#21 |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Speaking of thread-jacking... various drop measurements are in this old thread which I managed to hijack as well. Oops.
BTW, here's Slammed67's in action... ![]() Kenneth
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#22 |
Pronounced "Pew-al-up"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Puyallup, Washington
Posts: 845
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Way cool XXL!!!!!!!!
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Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos |
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#23 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
Kenneth
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#24 |
Pronounced "Pew-al-up"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Puyallup, Washington
Posts: 845
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Slammed67, that is an awesome looking ride!!
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Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos |
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#25 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Thanks Slammed it all makes sense now. Thanks Again!
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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