Track Bars: Why not simply cut and weld?

[lakeroadster]

Has anybody simply cut their track bar and re-welded it back together rather than spending a hundred bucks for an adjustable one?

A hundred here, a hundred there....

[TheDark1]

I have not, but along that same train of thought, why not cut it in the center slightly shorter that needed, thread both ends and make a threaded coupling out of some thick wall tubing. It could be like a tie rod end, just bigger. It would be completely adjustable and cost would be minimal if you had the tools to thread it with.--Jeff

[scrapmetalart]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Has anybody simply cut their track bar and re-welded it back together rather than spending a hundred bucks for an adjustable one?

A hundred here, a hundred there....

Do it. cut it in half & use a piece of heavy wall tube over the joint. set it where you want it in the truck & weld it up solid.

[mwipp]

i had the same idea as you. I did do this .. although i havent had the truck together enough to actually drive it since ive done it... so i cant tell ya how well it worked hahah ... the problems of being in college and tryin to build a truck at the same time

[bosephus]

Here's what I did with a link (for a tractor) that I got at Tractor Supply.Cost me 20 bucks and a little time!

[Mike Bradbury]

There is nothing special about the adjustable ones they are just made for many different types of vehicles, the important thing to remember about welding it is that if your skills are not up to par, you could really hurt yourself or others. If the bar is solid type then it needs to be beveled and a full pen weld is necessary not just surface welded, all the while making sure that the heat does not distort the bar.

Usually along with the adjustable track bar you get the brackets that makes it level.

[slepysal]

Looks goods,whats the Tractor Supply part number for the link?

[bosephus]

[QUOTE=slepysal;4293665]Looks goods,whats the Tractor Supply part number for the link?[I don't have the part number,I just saw it while walking around and a light bulb turned onI believe it is used for the three link on the back of a tractor.

[gulffishin]

Originally Posted by slepysal

Looks goods,whats the Tractor Supply part number for the link?

It's a "top link" for a 3pt hitch on the back of a tractor.

[hardwaa]

Pics of mine.
I actually boxed rear inside of pass trailing arm and welded tabs to make my track bar longer. Longer equals less rear movement left to right as rear suspension cycles. Hope this makes sence?

[63chevyll]

i used a peice of 1 inch square and plug welded it,

cut the center down and trim to desired length then weld up

the whole thing loooks square now

[Greg63]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Has anybody simply cut their track bar and re-welded it back together rather than spending a hundred bucks for an adjustable one?

A hundred here, a hundred there....

I did just that several years ago and drove the '63 without any issues.
I replaced the cut/welded one a couple of years ago with an adjudstable unit when I could afford it.
Greg.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by Greg63

I did just that several years ago and drove the '63 without any issues.

I did my 63 when I lowered it also. No problems. It ain't pretty if you're going the show truck route though.

[bama63]

have used these for years on many oval track cars and yes they are very very strong. you can purchase them in any length from 4inches to 30inches in steel or aluminum for around 10.00 for the tube and 6.00bucks each for the heims in 5/8,1/2 or 3/4 inch sizes. just measure the overall length and subtract 3inches for the heims and that is the tube you need.you can even get the rubber bushed or urethane joints if need be for about 12.00 each try http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedge...im-Joints.html got most anything you need

[tantrumpipeline]

I'm all for the do it yourself, and creativity of making your own products, for me though the $100 on a manufactured adjustable bar that mounts direct into factory spots, comes powdercoated, with poly bushings, and new grade 8 bolts, I'm way too lazy

[aerotruk63]

Buddy's 31 Chevy 5 window coupe, had a guy custom build him one, First time I was in the car it broke going around a corner. My bud told me I was to fat and banished me from the car. That hurts, I'm still in group over that one.

[rain_man]

this was mine on my 61

[Rich 5150 69]

This is the one I bought from brothers, a littel cheaper.. http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...r=TRACKARM%2DL

[lakeroadster]

Thanks for ll the input guys! I guess my hundred dollar first post comment can be beat.

Here is one for $59 bucks!

Early Classics
P/N 912-6572PB
Adjustable panhard bar kit
'65-'72 C-10 w/Bushings
http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....y=panhard+bars

But I can weld it myself for free.... Adjustability though would be nice.

Edit 11-23-2010: I made a solid model in CAD of the rear suspension on my '65 C10 shortbed 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive to see just how the rear suspension articulates as a result of being constrained by the track armand trailing arms.

Image below is an aerial view with frame at ride height:


Image below is the frame is at ride height (rear crossmembers removed to allow viewing of track bar)
Note angle of track bar in the following photos


Image below is the rear axle is hanging, being suspended by the coil springs. (Note: This moves the axle to the right a negligible amount < 1/8")


Image below is fully bottomed out, frame is on the top of the rear axle tubes. (NOTE: This moves the axle to the left approx. 11/16" from the std. ride height position)


Image below is fully articulated, at ride height on left side, bottomed out on right side. (Note: This moves the axle to the right a negligible amount < 1/16")


Image below is fully articulated, at ride height on right side, bottomed out on left side. (Note: This moves the axle to the left approx. 1/2" from the std. ride height position)


Pretty neat stuff don't ya think?

[LEEVON]

I don't see any problem just cutting the bar and putting a nice clean, deep bevel on either cut then welding it back together. There is some tensile and compressive force on that bar but not enough that I would be concerned about a fully penetrating weld breaking. Might try that now come to think of it since I want to add rear blocks for a total of 6" drop.

CPP has an adjustable one that's not expensive too:

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6572DATB.htm

[Captainfab]

You can build your own adjustable panhard bar. You will just need a piece of the appropriate DOM tube, a couple threaded tube adapters (you can even go with left and right hand threads), and a couple rod ends. Although the reality is than you can likely buy one already made for the same cost as buying the parts. But considering that we all are into building our own trucks, it isn't always about the price, but the satisfaction of having done it ourselves.

Here's a couple sources for the tube adapters and rod ends....

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...pters_c_7.html

http://artmorrison.com/homepage.html

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Thanks for ll the input guys! I guess my hundred dollar first post comment can be beat.

Here is one for $59 bucks!

Early Classics
P/N 912-6572PB
Adjustable panhard bar kit
'65-'72 C-10 w/Bushings
http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....y=panhard+bars

But I can weld it myself for free.... Adjustability though would be nice.

[61_FL_Apache]

The one for my 65 was cut and welded like Rain Man's above.

[61_FL_Apache]

Take your pick.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...&ip_perPage=20

[61_FL_Apache]

I bought one this week. I will post pics this weekend of my bar swap.

[lakeroadster]

I pulled the truck out of the shop to work on some other stuff today and was out basking in the sunshine enjoying looking at the truck.

So I got to looking and doing some measuring. Right now the tires are perfectly centered, as checked by measuring from the tire to the frame on both sides. And both sides measure the same.

The drive shaft however is off center in the crossmember. 5/16" clearance on the passenger side, 7/8" clearance on the drivers side, as shown in this photo.


As the truck sits now the track bar is level. That means as the suspension goes up or down the 5/16" clearance will increase.

Based on that I don't see a need for an adjustable track bar. I wouldn't want to "adjust" the rear axle location to center the driveshaft in the crossmember, 'cause that will mess up the tires, 'cause now they are perfectly centered.

So, I am wondering ... those of you guys with stock drivetrains, is the driveshaft centered in the crossmember, or is it biased toward the passenger side?