Lets see your cab/body cart.

[tys toy]

Looking for some ideas /advice for a cab dolly . Now that my welder is all hooked up Im anxious to get going on this rusty ol' cab that I want to fix up. Having no experience welding, I figure this would the perfect project as I was going to scrap it.
I picked up four 6in hard wheel swivel castors. So I guess my question is would 1 1/2inch sq tubing be strong enough for a cart or would that be over kill? Any ideas/pics for mounting would also be appreciated. Heres a pic of some test welds.I will post more pics as I go.Thanks guys

[70chevytruck]

That should hold up. What model is your Miller? Welds look good.

[tys toy]

Originally Posted by 70chevytruck

That should hold up. What model is your Miller? Welds look good.

Its a Miller 175. Blew through one area..lol! The many awesome build threads here got me pumped. Its nice when you can do the work yourself. Very self gratifying.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by tys toy

Blew through one area..lol!

EVERYBODY who welds blows holes with a welder every once in a while. Go down to your local ace hardware and get a 6 in piece of brass flatstock. Clamp it behind the hole and just make a new puddle to close up the hole. The weld metal will not stick to brass or copper. Welders use a "welders spoon" which is pure copper but they can be hard to find. Brass flatstock or copper busbars from an old electrical panel work just as well if they're 1/8 in thick or more.

[GaryM]

I weld for a living mostly sheet Stainless and use copper bars all the time for backing 1/4 x 2 flat bar. The copper bar with also suck up some heat from the steel and keep warpage down. which is good on sheet mete.

Gary

[tys toy]

Thanks for the welding tips guys. I look forward to many mistakes, this is how we learn...right I hope to start the dolly as soon as I find some tubing.

[bsteele]

I saw on one of the power block shows using the copper spoon, but said they were kind of expensive. They used an aluminum lowering block with vise grips attached to it.

[camjck89]

for patch panels its really been my experience that if you weld a LITTLE colder you will have less warpage and a better result maybe 14-16 at about 175 givign it about 1/8th -3/16 size tacks all around in adjacent areas of the patch, therefore to space out the heat then slowly fill up the butt weld, it should grind out smoothly

[camjck89]

the above is an estimated amperage and wire speed number, its been a while and im so used to welding 28.6 a at 525 wps. i hardly know what thin guage metal to set my welder to.

[swamp rat]

Heres a good welding article, when your doing body work switch to .024 wire.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ods-Ron-Covell

[72 tigger]

I made a dolly using a junk (rusty) frame section. If you have or can find a junk frame just cut it off at the cab mounts & weld legs (your square tubing) to the bottom of the frame. You can weld plates to the bottom of the tubesto mount your wheels- hope this helps!

[tys toy]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Heres a good welding article, when your doing body work switch to .024 wire.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ods-Ron-Covell

Thanks for the link Swamp Rat!

[tys toy]

Found this cool site for metal work/fab http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php?

[Richard H.]

There is a simple one in my build thread.

[mpauly]

Not mine, but cool designs

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=192185
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=dolly

[bigblock68]

i borrowed this from a buddy for my blazer.its pretty slick he used threaded conduit so you can change the height by changing the 4 legs.it worked really well i'm gonna build one.

[tinkerdad]

I modified a 4x8 trailer. I hinged the front support to allow forward tilting. This worked very well

[D.PASSMORE]

"I modified a 4x8 trailer. I hinged the front support to allow forward tilting. This worked very well"

That be kool! Good idea...

[tys toy]

So many great ideas. I think I might use a bit of everyones. Something that tilts forward would make it easier for cab mount replacement for sure.
My test welds were with .023 wire. Should I go with the .024?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by tys toy

So many great ideas. I think I might use a bit of everyones. Something that tilts forward would make it easier for cab mount replacement for sure.
My test welds were with .023 wire. Should I go with the .024?

.023 .024, that is only a thousands difference, definantly not enough to be a problem.

[spatz]

check our harbor frieght for a copper welding spoon. I seen one in thier add a couple of months ago. Might be worth checking into.

[Hubscrub]

i built this for a bed to sit on and roll around, i have some air filled rubber casters from tsc for it. I used bolts so i can take i apart and don't take up much room. FWIW- i work in a stainless fab shop and we use alum. to back our welds with all the time and really absorbs the heat, we do mostly tig welding but i have used it with my mig to

[ebfabman]

here...

YouTube - cabspin

[eagleuh1]

Harbor Freight does have the copper spoons and backers. Not a bad price either. They also have the clamps for holding the patch panels in place while doing the butt welds. You got to look for them though. Good luck. Also, I think one of the guys on here a has plans for cab dollies and lifts. Was it Kevs Classics?

[Big-Blue]

I had some extra steel laying around and some castors so I threw this together. I modeled it after seeing some on here. The round stock are extra pieces from my kids trampoline! It's pretty slick how I can lay it on its side to work on the bottom.