64 GMC - suspension upgrades and questions

[64GMCHorsepower]

I have a 64 GMC Fleetside w/ leaf springs in the rear

Right now I have Drop LCA's on the front w/drop springs....total 4 or 5" drop

I have taken a few leafs off the rear.....total drop of like 3"

NOt too happy with the overall look or driveability, I would like to see the rear a little lower without having to cut into the bed floor..

Sooo,

What are the advantages of a IFS front suspension?
What are the advantages of PB front crossmember?
Do I have to bag them, or can I run coilovers with them? Or is that an option of any kind?
What is the best option in the rear, as far as driveability, and dropping the rear? PB notch? change to trailing arms? bag it?

I don't want to lay frame, but I do like the overall lowered look,,,,,

Any opinions, options, or products you can throw at me will be greatly appreciated......

I'm looking at around 5K for the total redo.....
Sorry for the long post, if you need any more info, lmk

Chad

[lolife99]

I suggest a 4.5/6 static drop.

front:
-2.5" drop spindles (switch to disc brakes is required)
-Install stock lower a-arms
-2" drop springs
-good drop shocks
-1-1/4" sway bar

rear:
-install all the leaves back in the pack
-install a flip kit
-bolt in c-notch
-drop shocks

Then,... drive it and enjoy it.
These static drops are cool to cruise low.

The Dropmember up front will gain you ground clearance, rack steering, and ultra low drop. (You will need the rear Dropmember also, to get the rear low)

[N2TRUX]

Great advice Keith, and very concisely stated.

[64GMCHorsepower]

OK, I already have disc brakes in the front, and 2" drop springs, and drop shocks
so drop spindles, and a swaybar added to the front....

so flip kit in the rear and PB notch.....and drop shocks in the rear also...


so, does an IFS crossmember help in any way? I mean it is a huge difference in price to just go static drop vs. IFS and dropmember...

And thanks for the help

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 64GMCHorsepower

OK, I already have disc brakes in the front, and 2" drop springs, and drop shocks
so drop spindles, and a swaybar added to the front....

so flip kit in the rear and PB notch.....and drop shocks in the rear also...


so, does an IFS crossmember help in any way? I mean it is a huge difference in price to just go static drop vs. IFS and dropmember...

And thanks for the help

It's so hard anymore to tell what people have or don't have.
Sorry,... I read your post and just assumed you still had drum brakes.
I'm not a fan of "drop pocket" lower a-arms.

Since you have a $5K budget,... and you don't want to cut the bed floor,...I would highly suggest the Porterbuilt front bag kit and rear trailing arm drop kits.
(I was figuring the disc conversion in the costs)
I would send a PM to Nate Porter and get the specifics from him.

You could use the PB trailing arms, trailing arm crossmember, and mild notch to bag the back half and eliminate your leaf springs.
(Along with the PB plates and cups up front with bags)

Or get rid of your current lower a-arms and swap to PB tubular a-arms up front with bags.
The possibilities are endless.

Look here:
www.PorterbuiltStreetRods.com

If you're not worried about cutting up your truck and want the extreme Dropmember Drop,... check out "Delmo's" truck.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 64GMCHorsepower

Right now I have Drop LCA's on the front...... w/disc brakes...., and 2" drop springs, and drop shocks......

so, does an IFS crossmember help in any way? I mean it is a huge difference in price to just go static drop vs. IFS and dropmember...

I didn't see this mentioned, but if you have un-equal length upper/lower a-arms & coils, you already have an IFS.

[64GMCHorsepower]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I didn't see this mentioned, but if you have un-equal length upper/lower a-arms & coils, you already have an IFS.

I'm probably mean a rack and pinion steering setup.....

What do you mean by un-equal length? I have no idea if I do or not.

[64GMCHorsepower]

of course if I use bags, I need a tank reservoir, compressor, and all the switches, valves, and other misc. stuff.....

I would like to just stay simple really......

and no prob on thinking I had drums, i should have said so...

Thanks

[lolife99]

Got any pics of your truck?

[64GMCHorsepower]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Got any pics of your truck?

here's one ok shot.....



view of the bed - why I don't want to hack into it

[lolife99]

Your stock upper a-arms are shorter (in length) than your lower a-arms.
(thus un-equal length)
This is an Independant Front Suspension. (IFS)
Maybe you meant aftermarkt IFS.
Like Fatman Fabrications version or Jim Meyer Racings version?

[64GMCHorsepower]

most likely I have no idea what I'm talking about sometime.......Fatman yes was what I was thinking about...

[MacbreSkull]

I have been wondering about the same kind of info 64GMCHorsepower, i have a 64 chevy long bed. I don't have the leafsprings. But i have been wondering about how to get my truck lower but not have to modify my bed, i haul my bikes and also bikes for my friends cycle shop when he needs it (we do that in my elcamino now LOL) I am starting fresh from a stock truck though, i still have drums everywhere and all original stuff. Just wondering which way to go right of the bat, static or bag.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MacbreSkull

I have been wondering about the same kind of info 64GMCHorsepower, i have a 64 chevy long bed. I don't have the leafsprings. But i have been wondering about how to get my truck lower but not have to modify my bed, i haul my bikes and also bikes for my friends cycle shop when he needs it (we do that in my elcamino now LOL) I am starting fresh from a stock truck though, i still have drums everywhere and all original stuff. Just wondering which way to go right of the bat, static or bag.

Starting from scratch, coil spring trucks are more cost effective to bag the rear if the intent is to use it as a truck. The bags allow adjustability that coils can't match. If done w/a manual fill system, the cost can be within $100 of dropped coils.

[MacbreSkull]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Starting from scratch, coil spring trucks are more cost effective to bag the rear if the intent is to use it as a truck. The bags allow adjustability that coils can't match. If done w/a manual fill system, the cost can be within $100 of dropped coils.

Thanks SCOTI that is extremely valuable info. Any recommendations on do it yourself bagging or by a pre built system like what Porterbuilt offers?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MacbreSkull

Thanks SCOTI that is extremely valuable info. Any recommendations on do it yourself bagging or by a pre built system like what Porterbuilt offers?

Use 1-1.5" (15" dia wheels) or 2" (17"+ dia wheels) rear lowering blocks. CPP offers 1, 1.5, & 2" blocks or make some 2" units yourself (see the FAQ truck-tech section for the 'how-to').

Add 2 6" dia bags (Firestones or Slam Specialties work well). They can be bolted directly to the frame w/some drilling (serious drilling) or 'hats' can be made so they bolt right in place of the previous coils.

Add some DOT .250" airline & 2 schrader valves & you have a bare-bones, manual fill rear bag system.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Starting from scratch, coil spring trucks are more cost effective to bag the rear if the intent is to use it as a truck. The bags allow adjustability that coils can't match. If done w/a manual fill system, the cost can be within $100 of dropped coils.

What he said.

Also, you have a few options if you want to get low and keep the bed.

You can c-notch the frame and get pretty low. Look at the Porterbuilt Stage 2 kit for a nice low trailing arm bag setup.

You can go with a step notch, but keep it lower than others, then simply raise the bed to clear the bridge. But not to the extreme like Delmo's truck. You wouldn't lay frame, but you could get about 3" off the ground and only lose about 4" of depth to the bed.

Or on the cheap you could swap the rear out for a stock trailing arm setup then replace the coils with bags. You can get lower than most static drops but have a range of motion and an improved ride.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 64GMCHorsepower

most likely I have no idea what I'm talking about sometime..........

Everyone has to start somewhere. Your in good hands with these guys.

[N2TRUX]

Only if your system leaks...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Only if your system leaks...

Very true. But..... as simple as a rear manual fill system is (as described), the only place for leaks would be from 4 possibilities; all extremely easy to access.

The more realistic concern would be the inconvenience of filling. I had my 68 set up like this for about 18 months. Never had an issue but I only added air when I hooked up my car trailer. The rest of the time it remained @ a constant air pressure much like a static drop.

[Scottshotrods]

Don't forget about Scotts Hotrods we have some good products as well.
justin

[64GMCHorsepower]

Originally Posted by Scottshotrods

Don't forget about Scotts Hotrods we have some good products as well.
justin

I've been checking out the sale you have on the front crossmember....

I'm kinda interested, and will begetting with you for more info

Chad