10 dollar 10 minute eddy return spring

[screamin_c10]

I posted this once when I did the Chevelle, but I just installed the same thing on Screamin' and thought all the Edelbrock guys might be interested.

I haven't found a decent looking/operating return spring setup for the Performer/Thunder series carbs that wasn't either overpriced, intake specific or flimsy as hell.

This setup fits the bill, looks good, fits practically any intake, and is extremely strong....but best of all its cheap...

So for 10 bucks and 10 minutes of my time I went from this:

[screamin_c10]

To this:

[69 longhorn]

Nice lookin setup.....but what do we need that return spring for? WOT is the only way to fly crazyAl

[screamin_c10]

Originally Posted by 69 longhorn

Nice lookin setup.....but what do we need that return spring for? WOT is the only way to fly crazyAl

Damn pesky rules at the track.... Oh yeah and pedestrians...

So once you get the base trimmed up the rest of the install is self explanatory. The stepped washers fit the eddy carb nicely and the arms "reach" lines up the spring with the linkage almost perfectly.

The kit comes with 2 heavy and 2 light return springs. I used the 2 lightest springs for both the 'Boo and Screamin' but mix and match for the right feel.

[69 longhorn]

Originally Posted by screamin_c10

Damn pesky rules at the track.... Oh yeah and pedestrians...

So once you get the base trimmed up the rest of the install is self explanatory. The stepped washers fit the eddy carb nicely and the arms "reach" lines up the spring with the linkage almost perfectly.

The kit comes with 2 heavy and 2 light return springs. I used the 2 lightest springs for both the 'Boo and Screamin' but mix and match for the right feel.

Oh yea, I forgot about the pedestrians! They shouldnt be in the street tho.... On a more serious note , its a slick mod, any time you pull the spring(s) inline with the throttle arm, it works out for the best crazyAl

[screamin_c10]

Summit offers this kit for 10.00 under part # G1327, but several other companies carry the exact same setup.

Its a pretty simple mod, the pictures do most of the explaining. All you need is a cut off wheel or hacksaw, an allen set, and 7/16 open end.

First start by trimming off the tab, and notching it for the rib as such:

[stich626]

I always get them when I junk yard crawl..
dip in coke, then thinner. then paint, ta da.

[VA72C10]

Looks much better. How is the pedal feel with the heavier springs?

[screamin_c10]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Looks much better. How is the pedal feel with the heavier springs?

I originally used one heavy and one light spring on the 'Boo and it was way too stiff. I've never used 2 heavy springs but they come in the kit and the setup is more than strong enough to handle them. The 2 light springs are perfect for me with a cable throttle.

[Sport/Truck]

I'm thinking if you use the two heavy springs, you'll get better gas milage!
s/t

[screamin_c10]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I'm thinking if you use the two heavy springs, you'll get better gas milage!
s/t

Nah...just a sore right leg...

[tanman722001]

Cool set up.

[74baggedbug]

Just ordered the setup
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[GASoline71]

Been usin' those style of return springs on Holley carbs for eons. They work pretty slick. The dual spring setup is also NHRA approved as well.

Cool that you adapted it to fit the Edlebrock carb...

Gary

[Pop's C-10]

nice

[Longhorn Man]

i always hook mine up to the back of the carb, looks a lot cleaner that way.

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

i always hook mine up to the back of the carb, looks a lot cleaner that way.

This is just a FOR WHATEVER IT'S WORTH. On a daily driver, this is a great way to ruin the throttle shaft bore. When you wonder why the Q-jets get a shaft that feels like it is about to fall out because it is egg shaped, this is why.You already have constant pressure against the back of the throttle shaft bore from the pressure of the throttle cable/linkage. When you then have the added pressure of the return spring pulling toward the back of the shaft bore too, you get a nice digging in affect. Not as big of a deal on a low mile hot rod or race vehicle but a DD has constant pressure front the top and the bottom working against that aluminum. Taking into account that the shaft itself is steel, the aluminum bore shaft is the one that loses. Having the return spring on the front is the "correct" way to do it. Problem is that it doesn't look real sanitary. Funny thing about the Holley style bracket that the OP has pictured is that if fits way better on the Edelbrock than it does the Holley. Most of those brackets go WAY past the point of centered on the primary bracket and puts the springs and an angle/bind. I had to cut out about 1" on my Camaro so it would line up with the bracket.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Yeah, longhorn man, ya gotta pic of how you did it? Im interested in routing it to the rear it looks cleaner.

But good job man!

[shawno72]

^x2
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[oldblue1968chevy]

Longhorn man you have a special request lol

[Katrina/10]

To connect the return spring to the rear of the carb, I use a Quadrajet throttle bracket, works fine.

[oldblue1968chevy]

pitchers

[Katrina/10]

http://
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[Longhorn Man]

Mine is pretty close to that.
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[webfoot]

Thats how I do mine too. You can get two different sized springs where the smaller one will fit inside the bigger ones and it still looks like 1 spring. Chrome cheapies are in the Help! section for about $5 or $6.