Converting C-10 to C-30, brake questions?

[EricS76]

I've been researching on converting my C-10 to C-30 in the front end. I've already swapped in the 14bolt in the rear. My problem with the front is that the donor I have is a C-30 and not a C-20, so it has the slide-type brake calipers and thicker rotors, so I can't use my C-10's brake calipers like with a C-20 donor. My question is would my C-10 brake system be able to stop the truck with the C-30 calipers? The C-10 is a '77 with the higher GVWR. It has power brakes. Also, it seems that the front brake lines are different from 73-78 and 79-87. What is the difference? My donor C-30 is a '82 and my C-10 is a '77. I know I could buy C-20 spindles and rotors, but I would like to do the swap with the parts I have if possible. Thanks in advance.

[EricS76]

bump

[pig rig]

you'll have to use the 1T spindles, rotors, calipers and lower A arm and replace the upper ball joint to 3/4/1T and youll need the banjo type brake line end thats on the 1t caliper

and if your doner truck has the hydro boost breaks on it I'd use that you'll be glade you did

[thirdstreettito]

The easiest thing to do it swap over the crossmember and all, I think its like 6 bolts on each side into the frame. Much quicker than spindles and such.

[EricS76]

Thanks for the replies. The donor does have hydro boost brakes, but it looks like it had a major leak in the system. I may try it with the C-10 system and if it's not up to par I can swap in the hydro-boost. It looks to me like all the brake lines are the same on the chassis end, so I should be able to just get a set of 79-87 1T brake lines right? I have all the other parts.

I can't swap the whole crossmember, i've already pulled the 1t front end apart.

[Dru]

Putting a 1 ton crossmember under my 1/2 ton this Saturday, using the 1 ton brakes, or atleast seeing how well they work. Just swapping the lines at the frame.

You have noticed the 1 ton A arms have larger bolts securing them right? As in if you run the 1 ton A arms on your 1/2 ton crossmember, the top ones will flop around on the bolts unless you put sleeves on them.

[EricS76]

Originally Posted by Dru

Putting a 1 ton crossmember under my 1/2 ton this Saturday, using the 1 ton brakes, or atleast seeing how well they work. Just swapping the lines at the frame.

You have noticed the 1 ton A arms have larger bolts securing them right? As in if you run the 1 ton A arms on your 1/2 ton crossmember, the top ones will flop around on the bolts unless you put sleeves on them.

I'd like to know how your brakes feel after the swap if you don't mind. I'm using my 1/2 ton UCA's with a 3/4-1 ton ball joint.

[Dru]

Eric, I got the swap done today, and the brakes seem to be working ok. The pedal is going a bit farther to the floor, but I blame that on the brakes not being fully bled. I didn't seem to get any air out, but the rubber lines from the calipers certainly took in some air, I was just too tired by the end of the day to mess with it anymore.

Have to install my heavy sway bar, and flush the power steering in a day or two, and I'll try to get some more air out of the brakes, but I'm driving it at this point.

[babyJay]

subscribing, I'm thinking of doing the opposite swap.

[EricS76]

Well i've the swap done except changing the brake hoses. The hardest part of the whole thing was pressing off the old and on with the new bushings on the UCA pivot shaft. I'm glad the lower shaft was off the one ton with the metal screw in bushings. In retrospect I'm glad I didn't swap over the whole crossmember because I was able to put new ball joints and UCA bushings in. Should have it all done tomorrow.