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Old 03-08-2003, 04:53 AM   #1
GMCPaul
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Rockville,In. USA
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New Parts Arrival Dates

GMC Headlight bezels and Fender Eyebrows available to ship 4-21-03
The fender eyebrows was supposed to be on our container that left 2-23 but was off loaded from the correct container and placed in wrong container we discovered yesterday. We do have their final cost to us now so we have published their retail price. Happy to say we got the eyebrows for $15 less each than original quote due to a bulk buy ( sad to say my banks awful empty with 500pcs L&R purchased ) we have them here on our site
http://www.gmcpauls.com/new_products1.htm
We have also had both painted and Stainless Steel glove box doors made and they should be arriving at approx. the same time.
Wes already gave the update on the Burb panels, I am considering shipping them our 68 4X4 body as its near pristine to use to get the rest of the panels made. I have very mixed emotions though on giving up one of 509 made though so its not a done deal yet that I will ship it overseas complete yet. In fact I may not make that decision until May when I go to Taiwan to meet with them for a week and hash over further products and diversifying into more custom parts and further reproductions.
GMCPaul
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:52 AM   #2
Dandeluxe
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Location: st.louis mo.
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new parts you have

gmc paul ,
can you post a few pic.s of the 21 gallon steel gas tank you have no. 1033198. and what is the minor mods you have to install one ? thanks , DAN
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1969 cst swb 350/400 th . DANNY C .
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1969 cst swb corvette hugger orange with 400 hp sbc

I started out with nothing and i held on to it
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Old 03-08-2003, 11:10 AM   #3
GMCPaul
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Dan the steel tank requires the same mods as a poly except for in regards to the fuel fill outlet placement, on the poly tank you take a heat gun and heat around the fuel fill neck and after properly heated you can reposition its direction from straight the side to its going forward or backward in angle out side of tank depending upon where you want to fill it, on the metal tank you would need a muffler shop to bend a curve in neck so that it is at a forward or backward angle out the side of the tank if the straight out the side method is unacceptable for the filler method you desire. We are speaking with a tank manufacturer currently on slightly modifying the current original style of the tank to take into account the bed crossmember on the trucks and having a depressed area built into the top of the tank so that there won't be a need to notch the crossmember, at the same time we are designing it so that the fuel filler neck will be 1 1/2" instead of 1 1/4" with filler moved to far rear corner on drivers side of tank, this way it will be more adaptable to current fuel filler methods desired and the price of 1 1/2" fuel filler hose is 1/2 the price of the 1 1/4". We are also working with them on putting together a fuel filler door assembly with filler neck and vent lines for the bed side with the hoses included, and of course the straps, sender and hardware, or same kit except without the filler door and with a marine style filler.
Currently both manufacturers doing the poly and steel kits supply us with only tank, sender, lock ring , o-ring, straps and j-bolts for one side of the straps, we feel it would be easier & more complete to have the other pieces in it.
Currently this is just in the first intial design & developement stage but both ourselves and the manufacturers involved feel we can rapidly bring it to market and hope to do so within about a year.
GMCPaul
Oh yeah in case you didn't know the poly tank mods needed they are, notch 1" upward into bed cross-sill 2nd from rear on bed for entire width between framerails and remove this material, remove the bottom bar 1" wide installed to keep the front edge of the underbed spare from rotating upwards, bend straps to conform to tank shape, hold in place under frame, run new fuel supply lines to fuel pump, run fuel vapor vent lines, mark strap holes for j-bolts on passenger side, drill and install, hold straps up on drivers side mark for bolts drill and install, extend the fuel sender wire ( we prefer using the Blazer/Jimmy fuel harness on LWB by routing the current truck sender wire to rear of cab along its normal path then cutting it at its end changing the connector end to a female slip on connector the opposite design of the male used to plug in fuse box connector, then we drill a 1/2" hole in floor and stick the Blazer fuel sender wire end up that has the dash connector end on it plugging it into our original modified harness insert grommet on Blazer fuel sender wire into 1/2" hole drilled to seal hole route wire down drivers frame using existing wire clips across rear crossmember you notched and down to fuel sender this provides for a extremely clean installation, on SWB trucks you can do the same but instead you only need the Blazer harness and route it out at the firewall and down frame ) before starting have decided on fuel filler method desired and preform any mods to tank filler neck in advance, and now your ready to begin installation of filler you method you desire to use.
Well I believe that covers it all.
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