Preparing to install 2" drop springs up front.???

[Ironangel]

Happy New Year!(almost) Im preparing to drop my 72' 4-1/2" up front with 2-1/2" drop spindles and 2" drop springs. My question is; Do I need a spring compressor to dismantle the front end? Can I fab one up using some 3/4" all thread and some scrap steel material? Anyone ever fab one up? Can it be done with a small chain come along? Ideas and suggestions welcomed! Thanks Guy's!

[Tx Firefighter]

No need for a compressor. Put a floor jack about an inch below the lower control arm and pop the ball joint. Then lower the jack.

[Ironangel]

Right on TX, I was kinda thinking that would work but I just wanted to hear it from someone in the know. Ive got the truck on stands and the floor jacks freed up ready for use. Thanks man, and Happy New year Brother!

[Ironangel]

Ok, Got em out and found out why the left side was riding a bit lower than the right...Busted coil! While I have your attention Ill throw another question at you. Im dropping thge front a total of 4-1/2", 2-1/2" with spindles and 2" with springs, my question is; Will 2" shorter shocks take care of any possible "bottoming out" as long as the travel stays the same? Anybody have a part # to a shock that will take care of this amount of drop? One more question; I lowered the rear 4" with springs only and "no" c-notch; How much shorter, or what part# of economical shock do I need to use to eliminate any chance of "bottoming out"? Id really like to stiffen the ride in the rear to allow for some hauling and towing if need be(nothing big just a "drag bike" on a small trailer)These 4" drop springs seem like they may overload pretty easy as "skinny" and "weak" as they look! Thanks Guy's! "Cheers" Oh yeah, heres a pic of the stock spring...

[Tx Firefighter]

You're on the right track with the front shocks. The dropped spindle doesn't figure into the picture when figuring for lowered shocks, only the coil drop matters. I have used the KYBs from Early Classic and the Summit brand (actually Doetsch Tech shocks) in the past with great success.

In the rear, I've always lowered 6 inches with coils. ECE sells a nice kit that relocates the rear shocks to increase travel. Also, if you poke around in the suspension section, Scoti did an article showing how he modifies the stock rear shock brackets for the same end result for no money outlay.

I've never felt the need to notch the rear of any of my trucks with the 6 inch drop coils. After my divorce, I parted out a lot of motorcycles so I hauled a ton of bikes in the bed of my trucks. The heaviest were Goldwings (early ones, a bit lighter). The truck would very infrequently bottom out. I run short rear bumpstops so if it does ever bottom out it's not too harsh and won't make a banging noise.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

You're on the right track with the front shocks. The dropped spindle doesn't figure into the picture when figuring for lowered shocks, only the coil drop matters. I have used the KYBs from Early Classic and the Summit brand (actually Doetsch Tech shocks) in the past with great success.

In the rear, I've always lowered 6 inches with coils. ECE sells a nice kit that relocates the rear shocks to increase travel. Also, if you poke around in the suspension section, Scoti did an article showing how he modifies the stock rear shock brackets for the same end result for no money outlay.

I've never felt the need to notch the rear of any of my trucks with the 6 inch drop coils. After my divorce, I parted out a lot of motorcycles so I hauled a ton of bikes in the bed of my trucks. The heaviest were Goldwings (early ones, a bit lighter). The truck would very infrequently bottom out. I run short rear bumpstops so if it does ever bottom out it's not too harsh and won't make a banging noise.

"Right on!" Firefighter, I wanted to go ahead and lower the rear the 2" over front to level the truck but the notch deal kinda scared me off for the extra work and expense(layed off due to economy)Im a little "old school" and like the tail a bit higher than the front anyway(down force)and plenty of room for transfer at the launch. Yeah, Im going to run her guts out at the local strip and smoke a few late model rides around town here while Im at it. The "Hardley" boys know I have a fast bike and like to use me and "Baby Doll"(1980 KZ1000MKII) as their measure for speed. So far, not even the "Big Dogs" or the Screamin Eagles can keep up with that 31yr old muscle! I Love It! Im on a new computer and havent downloaded my pics yet, but theyll be available soon. Hey man, I been reading your stuff and have a lot of respect for your experience and shared knowledge, I listen when you speak, Thanks man!

[cdowns]

for the rear besides the cxoils you need the shock relocation kit and the adjustable panhard bar to center the axel housing// wood b a great time to install new bushings in the trailing arms too

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by cdowns

for the rear besides the cxoils you need the shock relocation kit and the adjustable panhard bar to center the axel housing// wood b a great time to install new bushings in the trailing arms too

Your the other "cat" I was hoping would chime in! You cut right to the chase, no BS! I like that! Ive already installed a whole new axle housing with a 3:08 posi in it, the bushings were good the trailing arms are rusted and showing signs of deterioration at the axle and spring connections so Ill be replacing or fabricating a new set when money and material allows. I have access to some 4" power and free rail used in conveyor systems that should work quite nicely for trailing arms. Im a structural welder by trade so fabbing something up is doable. Heres my current dilemma; I have new ball joints for the control arms. I "dont" have a press for the lowers so Ill be out sourcing the removal and installation of the lower ball joints. My worry is losing my alignment! Do I dismantle the lower control arm with the 1-5/8" bushing nuts? Or do I just take the whole control arm shaft off? Im afraid of losing the location of the control arm shaft once I go to re-install it after the new ball joints are pressed in. Thanks for any and all in-put!

[Tx Firefighter]

You can remove the lower arms for maintenance and reinstall them without affecting the alignment. The lower arms are positively indexed to the crossmember with a raised nub on the shaft. It's not adjustable.

All of the alignement adjustment comes through the upper control arm shaft shims and the tie rod ends.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Your the other "cat" I was hoping would chime in! You cut right to the chase, no BS! I like that! Ive already installed a whole new axle housing with a 3:08 posi in it, the bushings were good the trailing arms are rusted and showing signs of deterioration at the axle and spring connections so Ill be replacing or fabricating a new set when money and material allows. I have access to some 4" power and free rail used in conveyor systems that should work quite nicely for trailing arms. Im a structural welder by trade so fabbing something up is doable. Heres my current dilemma; I have new ball joints for the control arms. I "dont" have a press for the lowers so Ill be out sourcing the removal and installation of the lower ball joints. My worry is losing my alignment! Do I dismantle the lower control arm with the 1-5/8" bushing nuts? Or do I just take the whole control arm shaft off? Im afraid of losing the location of the control arm shaft once I go to re-install it after the new ball joints are pressed in. Thanks for any and all in-put!

If you have control arms and a rear coil over supension, I just ordered a air bag kit for my 66gmc, the bags only cost 80.00 and the rear brackets $129.00 You get complete control over the rear ride height and a great ride for not very much money. I just use a schrader valve to control it. I do not want a totally slammed truck, just a good riding truck with the stance I want. Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...28723713_zsmuL


www.airbagit.com for the bags and brackets......

[Ironangel]

Right on, Thanks you guys! Ive got the lower control arms in the shop having the old ball joints pressed out and new ones pressed in. Mean while, Im removing the rivets on the uppers and installing the upper ball joints. Ive opted to forgo installing bushings in both upper and lower control arms as funds are low and they seem to be in good shape, no free play in any of them.

[foz]

I removed my old springs today getting ready to install new 2" lower ones myself up front.

I took a few pictures that I thought might help you.

[Ironangel]

Ive got the lower control arms off and new ball joints pressed in and after a closer inspection, have decided to go ahead and replace the shaft and bushings...."One thing leads to another" While Im waiting for the shafts, Im going to patch the core support and install core support cushions Thanks for posting up the pics!