Frame clip ride height?

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Ok, this is specific to my '49 1/2 ton thats about to get a frame graft from an '80 Camino (g-body).

I posted here for specifics on the ride height set-up.

The '80 camino clip had already been hacked off when i got it so i was not able to take any reference measurements specific to the Camino ride height and what not.
Right now, i'm setting the "ride height" of the clip before grafting onto my '49, but have no reference points.

For you guys that install IFS set-ups in your sleep what are some general guidlines as far as upper & lower arms set-ups and angles?

I know it will vary (in stock form) vehicle to vehicle, i just wanted some ideas/input.

Unfortunatle i don't know anyone with a similar car otherwise id just crawl underneath and grab some dimensions...

Let me know what you got.

Thanks,
Chris

[Indian113]

Take the shocks out and buy some all thread and tighten it up until your a arms are flat parallel to the ground .that should be close to the ride height. Are you butt welding or putting frame on the rails?

[Houston54]

I would suggest installing the subframe with the top surface level with the top of the frame. That will give you a nice low stance in the front which can be matched with some simple rear suspension mods in the rear. Any lower and you will probably be smashing the bumper when you pull into parking spots. If you do not like how low it turns it and want to go further south you can then employ drop spindles.

If you want it lower in the front then install the subframe such that the top surface is higher than the stock frame.

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And there you are again Houston54 with answers

Yea, i'm going to "raise" the clip a bit to get it a tad lower. i'll be running bags, so i'll be able to adjust for the driveways

Originally Posted by Houston54

I would suggest installing the subframe with the top surface level with the top of the frame. That will give you a nice low stance in the front which can be matched with some simple rear suspension mods in the rear. Any lower and you will probably be smashing the bumper when you pull into parking spots. If you do not like how low it turns it and want to go further south you can then employ drop spindles.

If you want it lower in the front then install the subframe such that the top surface is higher than the stock frame.

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Thanks, that what i'm doing right now, just wanted to make sure that was on the "right path".

As for how i'm grafting it,...haven't got there yet. although i do plan to do elevate the clip a bit (kinda a "tiny Z") to keep it low.

Originally Posted by Indian113

Take the shocks out and buy some all thread and tighten it up until your a arms are flat parallel to the ground .that should be close to the ride height. Are you butt welding or putting frame on the rails?

[Indian113]

are you going to do a project thread ? Keep us posted please w/pictures

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I am taking pictures as i go and will post 'em up once i figure out what the
%*$& i'm doing

Originally Posted by Indian113

are you going to do a project thread ? Keep us posted please w/pictures

[robnolimit]

If you havent done this before, I agree with Indian. Pull the shocks and springs, and then set the lower control arms to be level, or sloping down 5 deg. to the ball joint. I used to cut a small piece of tubing and tack weld it from the lower A-arm to the subframe to hold the ride hieght. Drop spindles are smarter than raising the clip. Raising the clip means raising the motor/trans. That means raising the center of gravity (giving up ride quality and handling), and poosible sheet metal work fabbing a tunnel. Then, the driveshaft may hit the underside of the crossmember under the cab. Anyway, set the anti-dive (angle of the upper control arm) at about 7 deg, down in back. Good luck.

[MMM...BRAINS...]

Thanks for the input!
IF i raise the clip it wont be by much, not like an actual "Z". maybe 1" or less.
And yes, drop spindles will be how i get it where i want it, i do appreciate the input.
i'm pulling the shocks/springs now and was planning on setting "ride height" exactly how you stated.
Now, one question,...you say "set LCA to level OR sloping 5deg to ball joint?
any MAJOR difference or advantage to one or the other?

thanks again!

Originally Posted by robnolimit

If you havent done this before, I agree with Indian. Pull the shocks and springs, and then set the lower control arms to be level, or sloping down 5 deg. to the ball joint. I used to cut a small piece of tubing and tack weld it from the lower A-arm to the subframe to hold the ride hieght. Drop spindles are smarter than raising the clip. Raising the clip means raising the motor/trans. That means raising the center of gravity (giving up ride quality and handling), and poosible sheet metal work fabbing a tunnel. Then, the driveshaft may hit the underside of the crossmember under the cab. Anyway, set the anti-dive (angle of the upper control arm) at about 7 deg, down in back. Good luck.

[robnolimit]

with the A-arm sloping down slightly, it has a higher roll center, for better handling.

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Makes sense, thanks!

Originally Posted by robnolimit

with the A-arm sloping down slightly, it has a higher roll center, for better handling.

[Houston54]

One inch would be too much in my opinion. I set mine up with a .25" and if I were to do it again I would leave the top if the subframe level with the top of the truck frame. It will still be very low.

I am not a fan of air bags for a daily driver truck/car after seeing too many factory cars with that suspension system having problems down the road. As Murphy is always close by it would be my luck to have a bag or line blow while on some county road in the hill country.

Relying on an air bag system to control your ride height seems to be asking for problems down the road.

My $0.02 is to set it up for a realistic low static height and drive it with no worries.

Share some pictures.

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Thanks again Houston54!
bags are a future plan. for now, it will be static cause air ride is #$%&*(^ expensive!!

Although i do have many buddies that have run or run air ride on dailys without any issues, IF properly maintained. they all ran hardline rather than plastic/rubber tubing as well.

i'm going to start with setting the top of frames level to each other and see see it puts me. if its low, but not low enough i'll measure where some drop spindles will put me mixed with tire/wheel size.

i took a "night off" last night, but will be out in garage setting up ride height on clip and truck. i'll take some pics.

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by Houston54

One inch would be too much in my opinion. I set mine up with a .25" and if I were to do it again I would leave the top if the subframe level with the top of the truck frame. It will still be very low.

I am not a fan of air bags for a daily driver truck/car after seeing too many factory cars with that suspension system having problems down the road. As Murphy is always close by it would be my luck to have a bag or line blow while on some county road in the hill country.

Relying on an air bag system to control your ride height seems to be asking for problems down the road.

My $0.02 is to set it up for a realistic low static height and drive it with no worries.

Share some pictures.

[67'sgota454]

Take as many measurement's as you can before cutting the frame,wheelbase,bottom of core support height from floor,bumper....any measurement you think you mite need...remember sub-frame has to be square and level....most gm subframe's i've helped install ,the top a-arm need's to be tilted back 4 to 7 degree's....