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03-12-2003, 12:57 PM | #1 |
Got Big Block?
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
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"Steer" me right
is the steering shock stabilizer just a regular shock or what? I need to replace my stock one and don't know what to look for. Can anyone "steer" me in the right direction?
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"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted." |
03-12-2003, 01:18 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New York
Posts: 288
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Pretty much any parts store should carry one. I got one from Autozone. Steering stabilizers appear to extend much further than a regular shock. They cost about the same as a single shock absorber.
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RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super |
03-12-2003, 01:58 PM | #3 |
Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
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Depending on the size of the tires you are running, you may need a dual setup. I've heard anything bigger than 33s should have a dual shock steering stabilizer.
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72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
03-12-2003, 03:06 PM | #4 |
Got Big Block?
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
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33's is what I'm running now. I'm going to add a 2" lift pretty soon. Should I wait to put the steering stabilizer in then? What is involved with the install? thanks for the replies.
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"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted." |
03-12-2003, 03:37 PM | #5 |
Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
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You can put it in now if you want. A lift has no effect on the install. If you're getting any bump-steer, a stabilizer setup will dampen that out. I get a considerable amount of bump-steer with 35s, but I'm sure my stabilizer shocks have just about had it.
They're pretty easy to install, basically the setup is u-bolted to the tie rod and axle tube. Some axles have a pad welded to the tube to mount that end to, some tie rods are drilled for its respective end. Dual setups come in a parallel configuration, or an end-for-end configuration. The end-for-ends give you a little more ground clearance. Shop the 'Net, the local 4Wheel Parts store, or else consult 4 Wheel & Offroad magazine, there's a ton of vendors that advertise in there.
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72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
03-12-2003, 03:40 PM | #6 |
Got Big Block?
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
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thanks stout!
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"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted." |
03-12-2003, 06:34 PM | #7 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
Posts: 12,686
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My 69 is fine with a single stabalizer running 35's. From what I understand a stabalizer is different from a shock - not sure what is different though.
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 |
03-12-2003, 07:24 PM | #8 |
ready for reassembly
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Barrie ONT, Canada
Posts: 413
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i read on here that a s.s. is valved differently than than a shock. If it weren't then the s.s. would always be trying to steer you to the right because it would expand, wouldn't it??
i'm not sure, I only have 31's, so i'm not running one, but i plan to in the future. I'll probably just buy a s.s. and fab my own brackets. Jason |
03-12-2003, 08:09 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 229
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I like to keep things looking factory. So I don't go for the aftermarket bolt on/bracket stuff. Your pickup has a factory steering stab and when it gets worn out you can purchase another one that fits in the factory place for not much money. Its out of the way, does its job and doesn't detract from the factory look.
Bill 1978 4x4 Shortbed Scottsdale. |
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