cpp c notch

[scum1]

well i got my c notch and started to put in today..got all rivets out and went to mock up and it doesnt fit exactly right. ive seen a couple o fpeople discuss this before, basically the way the instructions say to line up doesnt have the axel lay completly center in the notch. so i was just gonna cut the notch the way it should be, and adjust accordingly, ie: drill new holes in notch..then weld in when done. anyone else run into this problem, and how did you go about it. any help is greatly appreciated, im gonna finish it up tomorrow so i was hoping for quick feedback. lots of smart guys on here.. thanks

[scum1]

Some pics

[LowDown]

I love this pic. Brings back many memories of working in the street .

[vin63]

Originally Posted by scum1

well i got my c notch and started to put in today..got all rivets out and went to mock up and it doesnt fit exactly right. ive seen a couple o fpeople discuss this before, basically the way the instructions say to line up doesnt have the axel lay completly center in the notch...

When you line up the C-notch assembly according to the instructions, where does the axle housing appear to be off (forward of center, or rearward of center of the notch)?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by vin63

When you line up the C-notch assembly according to the instructions, where does the axle housing appear to be off (forward of center, or rearward of center of the notch)?

I bet it's a little bit forward in the notch,... because to the 2" drop blocks.

[Gobbles]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I bet it's a little bit forward in the notch,... because to the 2" drop blocks.

X2, that little bit will make a difference. As long as it "fits" is what is important, if its not exactly center it shouldn't matter provided you make the clearance.

[stevencvn72]

Looks like you're doing it right. Jack the axel up to the frame and mark a vertical line on the frame to mark the front and rear of the axel will be located. I made a cardboard template of the notch and just lined it up to my marks. If you've got the rivets drilled out, the hard part is done! Good luck

[Shane]

i drilled the rivets and installed ... it wasn't forward or backward enough off centerline to make any real difference ... and I'm using 1 1/2" blocks.

p.s. you must have some real understanding neighbors.

[scum1]

haha thanks guys but actually when i had the notch mocked up per instruction..looking at it from the drivers side the axel would hit the far right side of the notch so rearward,,towards the taillights. i made the cardboard template and drew it on the frame and when i raised the axel to the frame it looked like it was going to hit the "notch" almost immediately once passed the frame.

like i said i was gonna just cut it where it should be and adjust with drilling holes in the cnotch to bolt into the existing frame holes.

[stevencvn72]

Exactly...Use the CPP instructions for a starting point and adjust from there as needed. I had to adjust mine a bit too. More drilling....great times!

Oh yeah...I agree with Shane. Understanding neighbors or folks that can appreciate a nice pickup fix-up.

[scum1]

most the neighbors are cool..the mail man loves it, usually everytime im workin on it he comes by and checks it out. well i got it done, for the most part. the drilling was the part that was the hardest. broke two bits so i just need to drill three last holes and ill be done. not to bad tho at all. its a good product for sure im happy with it.

[scum1]

the only thing to modify now is the panhard bar mount on the axel..you can see in the pics its gonna hit. i wanna fab up some kind of mount that will attach to my lowering block somoehow without being wedged between the block and trailing arm like the cpp kits. only reason because i dont think i have that much room on my u-bolts. heres some pics.

[shawno72]

Looks good man! I did mine with the bed on and its a leaf spring rear end.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by scum1

the drilling was the part that was the hardest. broke two bits so i just need to drill three last holes and ill be done.

Buy a step drill bit. They are real time savers if you are drilling metal by hand.

They also save your wrist... they don't tend to grab and yank the drill out of your hand like a regular twist drill bit does.

Another tool that you won't know how you lived without.

[N2TRUX]

Agree on the step bit with some advice. Get a good one! There are cheap copies out there but they dont last long in a large size application.
Posted via Mobile Device

[scum1]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Agree on the step bit with some advice. Get a good one! There are cheap copies out there but they dont last long in a large size application.
Posted via Mobile Device

ya i have some good ones, also some cheap ones..the cheap ones break and hurt my wrist!!

[lolife99]

You got the back low, now.
So you really need a set of rear shock relocators to stand those rear shocks up!

Also buy a set of quality drop shocks.
If you can't fab up panhard bar mount, I highly recommend ECE's Super Track Bar.

[scum1]

Originally Posted by lolife99

You got the back low, now.
So you really need a set of rear shock relocators to stand those rear shocks up!

Also buy a set of quality drop shocks.
If you can't fab up panhard bar mount, I highly recommend ECE's Super Track Bar.

well i dunno what to about that..i modified my old top shock mount by just moving the hole up and over, i think it gave me an inch or so. but i havent done anything with the bottom ones yet. i would like to see some pics of anyone with the shock relocaters, do i really need them. i also have some brand new monroes i was gonna put on, 31000's i think. they look like they will work good, ive heard some talk about the stiffness of the drop shocks. i think ill try these and go from there. but im still torn about the relocaters.

[lakeroadster]

The 33100 shock's are too long for a lowered truck.... check out this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=shock&page=2

Additionally, based on the data I recieved from Monroe the shocks must be mounted within 30 degrees from vertical or the shock valving may not work as designed.

In order to find shocks that are affordable and that will be functional I researched alternative Monroe shocks, contacted Monroe in regards to shocks that are applicable to our lowered trucks (Monro-Matic Plus P/N 32207, see post #29 on linked thread) and will be fabricating some alternative bolt in upper shock mounts (see post #36 on linked thread) within the next couple of weeks.

Here is the plan... pretty simple. It's a bolt in bracket that replaces the factory upper shock mount.

Stay tuned.....

Edit 02-06-2011: Fabricated the new upper mount, see post #56 of my build thread.

[lolife99]

With the rear shocks layed that far over,... all they do is "pivot" on the mounts.
The don't compress and rebound.

[shawno72]

Hey in relation to the lowered rear shocks. I have found that most companies will sell you lowered rear shocks, and this is what I did, but if you check there part numbers they are the same numbers as [U]stock front shocks.[U] So another words I bought some stock Monroe front shocks and installed them on the rear of my truck which was dropped 7 inches.

[Coursey]

Did you use the standard cpp notch or the HD one?