Be Cool Aluminum Power Cooling Modules (radiator with electric fans) is it worth it?

[Hazieview]

I have a sb400 and I live in texas where it can get well over the 100 degrees no problem. My engine should be around 450 hp or better at a best guess.

Just wondering if this aluminum radiator and dual electric fan setup was worth it. My truck is not a show truck by any means but I want to keep my engine cool as possible.

Well... What do you say for $1,694.95 ?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-86013/


Brand Be Cool
Manufacturer's Part Number 86013
Part Type Radiators
Product Line Be Cool Aluminum Power Cooling Modules
Summit Racing Part Number BCI-86013

Radiator Style Crossflow
Overall Width (in) 35.000 in.
Overall Height (in) 21.000 in.
Row Quantity Dual-row
Radiator Finish Natural
Radiator Material Aluminum
Transmission Cooler Yes
Inlet Location Upper driver side
Inlet Size 1 3/8 in.
Outlet Location Lower passenger side
Outlet Size 1 5/8 in.
Core Height (in) 18.500 in.
Core Thickness (in) 2.000 in.
Core Width (in) 27.500 in.
Tube Size 1 in.
Fan Included Yes
Fan Diameter (in) 11.000 in.
Fan Quantity Dual
Maximum Fan CFM 2,780 cfm
Blade Color Black
Blade Material Plastic
Shroud Color Black
Shroud Material Plastic
Quantity Sold as a kit.
Notes With engine oil cooler.


Be Cool aluminum radiator power cooling modules are designed to properly cool your vehicle.

Kits include:

* Aluminum dual 1 in. core performance radiator with oval fluted tubes
* Aluminum fan mounting brackets or straps with hardware (where applicable)
* Diamond-cut, vented coolant recovery tank
* Fan wiring harness(es) with 40 amp relay(s)
* Be Cool billet radiator cap
* One 16 in., dual 11 in., or two 13 in. high-torque Euro black electric puller fan(s) (in selected kits)
* Natural or polished aluminum finish
* Bolt-in installation
* Fan upgrades sold separately

Warranty

[Restrorob]

That's alot of bones for a radiator set-up, I couldn't justify it on any of my rigs. But if ya got the green go for it !

[Hazieview]

I know! I feel the same way. I really want to run electric fans and an aluminum radiator but it just seems to expensive for an every day driver....

I really like the setup but hate the price. haha! Am I a little for considering this setup?

[cableguy0]

Theres no good reason whatsoever to drop 1700 bucks on a radiator and fans. A stock 4 core radiator for around 250 bucks and a junkyard dual fan setup for well under 100 bucks is all you need.

[Hazieview]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

Theres no good reason whatsoever to drop 1700 bucks on a radiator and fans. A stock 4 core radiator for around 250 bucks and a junkyard dual fan setup for well under 100 bucks is all you need.

I'd at least like to go with the aluminum radiator for sure. I've seen several for under $500.... Still too much?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-60013/


Brand Be Cool
Manufacturer's Part Number 60013
Part Type Radiators
Product Line Be Cool Custom-Fit Aluminum Radiators
Summit Racing Part Number BCI-60013

Radiator Style Crossflow
Overall Width (in) 35.000 in.
Overall Height (in) 19.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in) 3.000 in.
Row Quantity Dual-row
Radiator Finish Natural
Radiator Material Aluminum
Transmission Cooler No
Inlet Size 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Size 1 3/4 in.
Core Height (in) 18.000 in.
Core Thickness (in) 2.000 in.
Core Width (in) 27.000 in.
Tube Size 1 in.
Fan Included No
Quantity Sold individually.
Notes 450 HP max, 1,000 HP max with electric fan(s).

[cableguy0]

In all reality the stock style copper/brass radiator will cool just as good or better than the aluminum aftermarket rads. If you want an aluminum rad just because thats fine but dont worry about spending big dollars on a trick piece that is totally not needed. These trucks dont have an airflow problem at all. Its really not an issue. Pretty much any decent new radiator 3 or 4 core will cool your engine. So long as everything else is up to par.

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

Theres no good reason whatsoever to drop 1700 bucks on a radiator and fans. A stock 4 core radiator for around 250 bucks and a junkyard dual fan setup for well under 100 bucks is all you need.

I would have to argue that thought. I agree that the $1700.00 is excessive, but the expense of a radiator from Be Cool and a set of SPAL fans is worth it to me. I purchased my Be Cool radiator for my 84 SWB and the fans back in 1999 and I spent about $700.00 for the comfort of never having to sit along the side of the road with my built $5000.00 engine steaming and smoking due to overheating. Nothing worse than putting a lot of money under the hood and then having to let everyone drive by you, because your were too cheap to protect it. I have had my truck all over the country and even have had the electric fan relays fail in the middle of a 100 degree July summer day and the radiator did it's job of keeping my engine cool. YES, it is worth the cash, to me.

Oh and by the way, the engine cost me $5000.00 after I used cheaper parts the first time around and it failed at 135 MPH. I used a set of stock rods and one broke, that won't happen so easily again. So with age, you live and learn. I built the truck to last and that is what it is doing. I am working on a 68 C-10 and the radiator for it is in the basement---it is a Be Cool unit with a set of dual electric fans. It did not cost $1700.00 either. You have to shop around for a better price.

Also, before everyone flames me, yes I do make a little more than the average guy, but even if I were broke, I would do more than just a stock radiator for a custom engine build, especially after talking to the guys at Be Cool.

[Hazieview]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

I would have to argue that thought. I agree that the $1700.00 is excessive, but the expense of a radiator from Be Cool and a set of SPAL fans is worth it to me. I purchased my Be Cool radiator for my 84 SWB and the fans back in 1999 and I spent about $700.00 for the comfort of never having to sit along the side of the road with my built $5000.00 engine steaming and smoking due to overheating. Nothing worse than putting a lot of money under the hood and then having to let everyone drive by you, because your were too cheap to protect it.

I think I finally found someone that was thinking the same way I am.

Why would I want to spend money on bags, rims, or any of that before getting a good radiator setup? If you broke down everyone would think it looked really cool except for the guy sitting beside his smoking truck sweating his butt off

[3r!c84]

ok talking about stock radiators. im still using my stock one that came with 305/th350 combo. i droped in a pretty healthy 400sbc still running stock clutch fan from the 305.still no heating problems. and 400sbcs are known to have heating problems. just my .02

[85/05Silverado]

i got my aluminum rad from jegs they make a direct fit and universal fit ones they are 2- 1" cores i believe and then i got a 14" electric fan wth aluminum shroud from summit for it 300 for the rad and 160 for the fan/shroud combo

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-381006/
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...51910/10002/-1

[GVazquez]

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=33805695721

I was thinking if getting one of these, they make them to fit 73-87, has anyone bought one??
Posted via Mobile Device

[Orangetonicclicc]

It's $1250.00 FROM jEGS WHICH IS STILL PRETTY STEEP HERE'S THE LINK:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...-1#accessories

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GVazquez

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=33805695721

I was thinking if getting one of these, they make them to fit 73-87, has anyone bought one??

I've seen a couple of them in person & they're very decent looking parts. I'm not sure on how well they function but my bet would be every bit as good as a BeCool w/o getting robbed.

[Kmart2352]

Originally Posted by 85/05Silverado

i got my aluminum rad from jegs they make a direct fit and universal fit ones they are 2- 1" cores i believe and then i got a 14" electric fan wth aluminum shroud from summit for it 300 for the rad and 160 for the fan/shroud combo

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-381006/
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...51910/10002/-1

This set up worked fine for your motor?( what is your motor) Also is the links are exactly what you bought for your truck?

[85/05Silverado]

Originally Posted by Kmart2352

This set up worked fine for your motor?( what is your motor) Also is the links are exactly what you bought for your truck?

my motor is a 395 stroker, 490 hp, i have just installed the fan this winter so i have not had a chance to run it yet but, last sumer i had the motor on that rad with a stock clutch fan with no shroud that didnt exactly sit close to the rad, so a few guys mentioned that i probably wasnt pulling alot of air with that set up , so now this shroud should pull air from the whole rad,
with my old set up the stroker run about 180 consitantly and up to 195 on a hot day in slow heavy traffic
the link for the fan is the one i have as for the rad i ordered just a universal fit one becausle i didnt realize they had a direct fit till after i had ordered,

hope this helps

Stephen

[gchemist]

No way!! I run a dual LS1 fan setup.


I do have a problem with the A/C. I'm fixing that problem this Spring. I'm installing a crossflow condensor. Then, I'm closing off the gap between the condensor and radiator. Max air flow across the condensor is need for cooling. I need to run my engine hot. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency. I run an on/off swith of 205/190. It works great but the A/C suffers. Closing off the space/gap should help A/C cooling.

Read this article!
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

I may upgrade to the Mark VIII fan. I can use the low speed for A/C cooling. Max speed for engine cooling as necessary. A bypass switch on the low side is helpful too. The low speed is not nessary as long as speed is above 30 MPH. A bypass switch is great for long distance driving. I don't need run a 145 amp all the time.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gchemist

No way!! I run a dual LS1 fan setup.


I do have a problem with the A/C. I'm fixing that problem this Spring. I'm installing a crossflow condensor. Then, I'm closing off the gap between the condensor and radiator. Max air flow across the condensor is need for cooling. I need to run my engine hot. Aluminum heads like heat for efficiency. I run an on/off swith of 205/190. It works great but the A/C suffers. Closing off the space/gap should help A/C cooling.

Read this article!
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

I may upgrade to the Mark VIII fan. I can use the low speed for A/C cooling. Max speed for engine cooling as necessary. A bypass switch on the low side is helpful too. The low speed is not nessary as long as speed is above 30 MPH. A bypass switch is great for long distance driving. I don't need run a 145 amp all the time.

Wouldn't it be the opposite.... low speed to maintain engine operating temp & high speed for when the a/c is enabled?

[SBTork]

A few years back I bought a new GM radiator for my '86 C10 and it was perfect. Aluminum with the plastic/composite side tanks, plenty good and also stock for any vehicle built in the last 10 years or so. I think I paid under $200 for it at the time. I still have it, not the truck, and will wind up putting it in my suburban when the stocker goes bad.

[CHROMAHOLIC]

http://www.prchotrod.com/

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by CHROMAHOLIC

http://www.prchotrod.com/

I just called that Website. $750.00 to my door in Oklahoma. That's 2 fans, aluminum radiator, and harness. Only the brackets will need to be drilled for installation. Not a bad deal!!! I'm probably going to get on. They build them by request so it would take 3 weeks at the most.. Check the site out..
Posted via Mobile Device

[spudz]

I have bought runing, driving square bodys for less money then that radiator setup... Just so you know.... aluminum doesnt cool as good as the factory copper/brass. rad.. Its doesnt transfer heat the same way. Unless its a big money show truck..... your crazy to spend that much. If anything I would have a factory 4 core redone by a good radiator shop.

[tucsonjwt]

How about dual cooling fans on the stock radiator - with a dash mounted switch to turn them on only in hot weather? I recall big block Corvettes having overheating problems with aluminum radiators, due to very little air circulation under the hood, so aluminum is not always the answer to every cooling problem.

[silvereagle07]

I am searching for one myself for my project. Check this link out. The radiator is $495 and I was getting a new LS1 fan for $140. The radiator is a direct replacement so there is no cutting or trying to fit it.
http://www.alumitechreproductions.com/64.html

[Clyde65]

2 row for 73-80
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Row...item43a22e12b3

2 row for 73-87

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...item1c19d122d7

I have one like this one in my LSx 65

[gchemist]

I'm running a 454 aluminum radiator. I've been running it for years. The only set back was the original fans. They didn't provide enough cooling. The fans did not have a shroud. Even the LS1 fans don't have a shroud big enough to cover the 454 aluminum radiator. The Mark VIII is almost big enough.

The Mark VIII at low speed should be enough. A/C would really suffer only if speed was really low or dead stop traffic. I will experiment with fans speeds. A variable speed controller is ideal. I may consider it if the crossflow condensor shows big improvement over the R12 condensor.