Starter Help

[Mog]

Looking for some help. The pinion gear on the starter stopped engaging the flywheel. Replaced the starter on the assumption the pinion gear teeth had become worn and could no longer make contact. Problem is still there...started up fine on the first try after I put the new starter in but after that the starter turns but not the flywheel. Any thoughts? I assume the teeth on the flywheel can get worn as well. Anyone know how long the teeth are supposed to be? Oh, and it's a 70 K5 with a 350.

Thanks,
Steve

[truckster]

I assume you got a complete starter with the solenoid. There are three possibilities I can think of:

1. Your replacement starter isn't working. If you pull it off and use jumper cables to energize it, you can check it. Make sure the throw-out engages and pushes the starter gear out into the nose of the starter.

2. Your flywheel has broken or missing teeth. This should be pretty obvious if you do a careful inspection as you turn the crankshaft with a wrench.

3. You might need shims to get the right starter clearance. Here's a method that's fairly simple:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5904862_shim...chevrolet.html

Good luck.

[my90k5]

Just a FYI. For an automatic trans the flywheel will have 168 teeth and for a manual 153 tooth for the pressure plate, that's how your starter should be ordered. Make sure there are no shims used for mounting the starter this will only increase the clearance between the flywheel and the starter. I'm sure you probably knew this just wanted to throw it out there for thought.

[Mog]

Have a new piece of the puzzle. I had a buddy crank it while I was underneath and I can see the pinion gear come back and spin like it is supposed to but it just brushes the peaks of the flywheel teeth, doesn't engage. Is there a way to move the starter closer? Do I just need to get a new flywheel? I don't think a shim is going to work since those are, for all intents and purposes, spacers. I made sure that it was for a truck with a hydramatic auto tranny. 9 tooth pinion gear. Stumped....

[truckster]

If it's tight up against the block and it's not engaging the teeth on the flex plate, I'd take it back to the parts store and compare it to another one. It wouldn't be the first time a part ended up in the wrong box.

[pound41]

A shim on the outside bolt is suppose to move it closer. Tilt it in.

[Mog]

Thanks for the help. Have a couple of shims that came off the old one. I'll try one or both on the outside bolt and see what happens.

[TexasJimmy]

Just went thru this whole deal this week on my 71, 350. I went to a gear reduction starter after many tries with the so called stock starter. Correct one for me was for a 2000 pickup with a 5.7 motor. Part #ULT 03-0485 from O'Reilly. Bought the CORRECT bolts from Chevy 9.8mm shank w/knurles (a must), GM part #12338064. Ground the mounting face on the starter to move it closer. IT WORKS GREAT. This also moved the starter away from my headers for less heat. PM me with any questions.

Tim

[TexasJimmy]

PS.....manually move the starter gear(use a hose pick) to check for proper alignment (and tooth penetration) with the ring gear. Use a large paperclip between teeth as a gauge. Note...Take flywheel cover off to do this.

Tim

[TexasJimmy]

Mog, what part of H town are you in? You should join us on a Friday (Pearland) of Sat. (Seabrook) cruise run. I was the only 1st gen. out of 50+ cars/trucks last night.

Tim

[Mog]

Thanks for the invite Tim. Sounds like that would be fun if I can ever get it started again. Maybe I'll just install one of those old timey hand cranks, problem solved!

[Mog]

I'm over on the northwest side, around 290 and 6.