removing lower a-arms - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

andyr354 · 03-28-2003, 02:50 PM

I might get around to removing the lower a-arms and everything from my 80 donor truck this weekend.
When removing the lower a-arms should I take the bushings appart to get them off or take the whole assembly loose with those u-bolts that hold the pipe to the frame?

How much realignment is the truck goin to need when I get it back together?

**1971Stepside** · 03-28-2003, 02:55 PM

If you aren't planning to replace the bushings I would drop it with the u-bolts. There are alignment tabs on the "pipe", but you will need to have the front end aligned when you have it back together.

**COBALT** · 03-28-2003, 05:21 PM

Yeah, it's much easier to contend with the U-bolts then it is taking the A-arm off by removing the bushings. Don't try that with the spring still in place!

I took my front-end apart by putting a floor jack up tight under the A-arm center bar, and then unbolted the U-bolts. I got behind my workbench (it has solid metal sides), and lowered the jack. The springs fell off, and then I just strolled over, took the castle nut off the lower ball joint stud, and used a ball joint press to pop the spindle loose. Piece-o-cake.

Blue68 · 03-28-2003, 07:21 PM

Actually, you don't have any other option than to take the entire shaft. The bushings are rubber on the '80 model trucks, where on a '70 you are looking at steel bushings. Minor difference.

Why not just put new ball joints in your 70 and drop the '80 spindles on it? You will also have to change out the tie rods as well and maybe the drag link (can't remember if that was for PS or not). I tried this and couldn't get it aligned right with mid 80 spindles. Said screw it and dropped a '75 crossmember under it so that all the parts were for a specific model.

03-28-2003, 02:50 PM	#1
andyr354 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mahaska, KS Posts: 82	removing lower a-arms I might get around to removing the lower a-arms and everything from my 80 donor truck this weekend. When removing the lower a-arms should I take the bushings appart to get them off or take the whole assembly loose with those u-bolts that hold the pipe to the frame? How much realignment is the truck goin to need when I get it back together? __________________ 1970 C10: 2WD, LWB, 350, 350 auto, Headers, Duals, Edelbrock 1406 with 2101 intake, and optional rust.

03-28-2003, 02:55 PM	#2
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	If you aren't planning to replace the bushings I would drop it with the u-bolts. There are alignment tabs on the "pipe", but you will need to have the front end aligned when you have it back together. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

03-28-2003, 05:21 PM	#3
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yeah, it's much easier to contend with the U-bolts then it is taking the A-arm off by removing the bushings. Don't try that with the spring still in place! I took my front-end apart by putting a floor jack up tight under the A-arm center bar, and then unbolted the U-bolts. I got behind my workbench (it has solid metal sides), and lowered the jack. The springs fell off, and then I just strolled over, took the castle nut off the lower ball joint stud, and used a ball joint press to pop the spindle loose. Piece-o-cake. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

03-28-2003, 07:21 PM	#4
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	Actually, you don't have any other option than to take the entire shaft. The bushings are rubber on the '80 model trucks, where on a '70 you are looking at steel bushings. Minor difference. Why not just put new ball joints in your 70 and drop the '80 spindles on it? You will also have to change out the tie rods as well and maybe the drag link (can't remember if that was for PS or not). I tried this and couldn't get it aligned right with mid 80 spindles. Said screw it and dropped a '75 crossmember under it so that all the parts were for a specific model. __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.



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