My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[jlsanborn]

I've got a C10 project started and thought I'd share. I look forward to any help or advice I can get and also hope to pass along what I learn in the process.

The objective is a driver. The budget is under $10K (how far under depends on who you talk to!). The drivetrain is to be small block and M21. Wheels will be 5 on 5 15" rallies. Ride height is being debated, but for sure will run on drop spindles and springs.

So far we've got the rear in process and hope to have the major stuff painted by next weekend. I have yet to really determine what I need for the rear end and maybe you folks can clear it up for me?

The way I understand it is that a disc brake conversion will widen the track by 1-1/2". I also believe that a '71-'72 12 bolt is also 1-1/2" wider and is already 5 on 5. Will that rear end bolt in without mods? Is that what I should be looking for, or should I be getting new axles?

What drop spindles should I get? Not necessarily ride height, but model year for disc brakes. If I get spindles for '71-'72, will I only then need donor rotors and calipers? Will those spindles bolt up?

Thanks in advance!

[lolife99]

Welcome to the board!
There is alot of info here, on doing the disc brake conversion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68&postcount=4
I would look for a complete 71-72 rearend.
They should be a bolt in swap.

What most people don't realize is,... the front track width on the trucks has always been wider from the factory.
Look at your first picture.
It's easy to see, that the front tires stick outside the fenders more than the rear tires.
Adding the disc brakes makes it worse.

I like to use different width wheels to help correct this.
(either 8's and 10's or 7's and 8's)

[jlsanborn]

Awesome thanks! So if I go with 71-72 drop spindles, the 71-72 ball joints and tie rod ends will match up with my A-arms and tie rods?

[lolife99]

Yes.
You can swap all those parts.
They are all compatable with your a-arms.
Spindles, ball joints and tie rods (with $50 adapter sleeves)

But it's so much simpler to buy new spindles that use your existing balljoints and tie rods.
Change nothing.
www.PerformanceOnline.com sells these conversion spindles every day for $228.

[jlsanborn]

That's the ticket! Now to find my donor 71-72.....
Thanks!

[jlsanborn]

Found a guy parting a '71 Burban C10

3.73 posi rear - I think he means that Gov-Lock locking diff like I have in my K30. Prolly don't want that do I? He wants $200, which I think is a little steep. Local U-Pick bone yard is $90 for a rearend, but they don't have what I need currently. Should I snag this one or keep looking?

Power steering box - little trimming on the bumper bracket and it'll bolt in right?

Rear chrome bumper for $100 - bolt on right?

Rotors and calipers for the "adapter spindles" I'm getting. Should I snag the brake lines or is there something better? Should I get the prop valve?

What else else would be good pickins?

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Yes.
You can swap all those parts.
They are all compatable with your a-arms.
Spindles, ball joints and tie rods (with $50 adapter sleeves)

But it's so much simpler to buy new spindles that use your existing balljoints and tie rods.
Change nothing.
www.PerformanceOnline.com sells these conversion spindles every day for $228.

It may be easier but not cheaper.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by gdavis

It may be easier but not cheaper.

I did drop spindles, so the "conversion" was no extra cost. If you were simply converting to disk then bone-yard parts would save you a few bucks.
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[jlsanborn]

Didn't check out that 327 tonight. Too busy with "not C10" work in the shop again. Had to repair / modify a woodstove for sis. Plan is to check it out tomorrow.
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[jlsanborn]

CHA-CHING!!! Funded baby!

Ordered up my No Limit rear sway bar (2-3 week backorder) and front sway bar bushings. Had a few emails with Rob regarding shocks but I'm still not sure what to get. I think I'll hold on that for now. Also hair-triggered on that 327!!! It's 1965 RPO "HC" which was a 275hp, PGlide, 4bbl, passenger car motor. Has the 461 camel humps and a forged crank . When we first looked we thought it was "HO", which is 1965 300hp Vette. We were pissin, then did a little cleaning and were like "I think that's a C not an O". The Boy and I tore it down and are a little concerned. It's already 0.030" over and has the hella ridge at the top of stroke. He'll take it to Skill Center for an inside mic and hopefully it'll take another 0.030" for one last hoorah!. The crank is already 0.010"/0.010" too but it looks pretty clean. I'll load up the rest of the crusty crap this weekend and drop it by the blaster's shop on Monday. Should have those bits painted black and this thing sitting on it's new shoes by next week or so. This project is moving again, but I'm still hung on the bodywork. I'm trying to find the Durablocks locally instead of online.

[oldblue1968chevy]

i paid 150 for a 5 lug coilspring 373 1 wheel peal rearend and was pretty happy to get it (didnt have to pull it and it had nice paint already on it..)

[jlsanborn]

I found another five lug rear that I'll prolly pick up this Sunday. I'd like to order the conversion spindles, which are a 2-1/2" drop. What coils should I get to go with those? Think -3"?
Also, are those wheel widths customs or OEM? Are there certain models I can look for to get 7's, 8's or 10's?

[jlsanborn]

That last rear end turned out to be six lug - dammit! I was starting to wish I had just paid $200 for the first one I found, then..... I got a hit back from a c-list "tons of chevy parts" ad. I'm picking up a 3.08 out of a '71 GMC in about ten minutes! Even better, I offered $150, the guy giggled and said "how about $100?". I'm stoked. Just orderd my "conversion" drop spindles. Now to find some wheels.... Ad on c-list for 8's and 10's with tires for $350. Sounds steep. Did they ever make an OEM 10" wheel, or are these aftermarket? More pics to come

[nds1968]

Nice truck Not sure if your gonna run trailing arms or leaf springs but most GMC's had leaf spring rear suspension.

[67chevy1series]

beautiful truck im sure youll make that diamond shine.

[jlsanborn]

It's in the shop, finally! Came really complete, nice drums and even a pair of wheels/tires. The best thing was that it was sitting on the guy's shop floor, so I didn't have to yard it out of some old crusty wagon.
My next mission is to the pick-n-pull for rotors/calipers. What donors would be good for power brakes? What about power steering?

[hbchevy]

Looks good. Was that out of a coil sprung truck...it looks like it but hard to tell.
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[jlsanborn]

Yup. It's got the panhard bar, and the U-bolt flanges are angled to match the trailing arms. My boy should be at home cleaning it up for paint while I'm here at work SLAVING on 67-72!

[FrankieD]

I just swapped mine out from a 72 to my 70 the width of the rear housings are the same and the 5 lug axles are the same length of the 6 lug so I just swapped out the backing plates, drums and axles. I also put the complete front suspension in cross member and all, the only mod is the front 2 bolts that screw into the frame need to be modified I got lucky with mine the PO put new calipers and rotors on so that saved me some bucks.. You can use the complete front suspension all the way up to 87 on the pick up and to 91 on the 2wd blazers and suburban’s, the 73 up have better A arm bushing's and the Proportioning Valve is down on the cross member and not on the Master cylinder. Hope this helps and good luck

[jlsanborn]

Got the rear ready to go last night. The diff is an open with 3.08's, but is tight and clean. That'll be just fine for now. Re-sealed and all cleaned up. Got most of the other bits cleaned, primed and painted too. Drop spindles should be here today, but will sit for a while until I get it's rear legs back on the ground. Just gonna stuff the old springs back in there until I can decide what to get for the rear to match the 2-1/2 spindles.

[jlsanborn]

So I've got the rear mostly back together. I just stuffed the old crusty springs back in there so I could roll it around. I've gotta get the brakes adjusted so I can drag it around behind the shop for a good pressure washing and degreasing and then I'll tear the old spindles out. I've still got to find some donor rotors / calipers at the pick-n-pull. I've gotta stop and clean the friggin pig-pen shop up a little first tho! Still no suggestions on rear springs to go with the 2-1/2 spindles????

[VA72C10]

Looking like a nice project. If you're doing just 2 1/2" spindles I'd go with 4" rear springs. The best drop on these trucks (IMHO) is a 4.5/6 though. Which would be a 2" spring in the front with the spindles and a 6" rear spring or 4" rear with a 2" rear block.

[jlsanborn]

Wow, i'm on a slow budget here, but am making progress.

We've got the drop spindles on and it's turned into a big argument with the boy! He's such a damn Chevy "purist" and if it were up to him we'd have stock ride height on stock rubber! I couldn't help myself and cut one wrap off the front springs. I ground a bit of the spring flat on the bottom so that it sat in the lower A-arm a little nicer too. That made the free spring about 1-1/4" shorter (although it seems that folks around here feel that one wrap off the bottom drops you 2" ???). We used blocks to try and mock up the final ride height and determine what springs I should get for the back. I thought he was going to cry, I think it looks awesome!

[50bomb]

I like it.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks! I'll pass that along to the little whiner.