I deleted my voltage regulator, but I have 2 questions

[pritch]

I followed this FAQ:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379
Now I am left with 2 questions. I have a black wire in the bundle going to the alt, but nowhere to hook it to. Does it just go anywhere, like one of the little bolts that hold the alt. together?



http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y55...ernator010.jpg

And at the regulator, I have a big red wire that still is on the connector to the regulator. What do I need to do with this wire?



Any help would be great. Thanks,
Pritch

[71meangreenc10]

What alt did you get?

Smitty

[VetteVet]

The black wire is a ground between the external voltage regulator and the original alternator. The new alternator is grounded through the case so it no longer needs the ground wire.



The red wire in the plug is the voltage sensing wire for the regulator. It could have gone to the terminal on the alternator where you put the little jumper off the back of the new alternator as per the instruction in the FAQ. That would have given you a better read on the remote voltage sensing instead of taking it right off the back of the alternator.

The other end of the red wire you mention is connected to the three-way connector in the harness and is hot at all times so you could run it to a fused junction as a lot of the fellows do to feed various things like headlight relays or cooling fans.

[pritch]

Vette Vet, lemme get this straight-wire # 12R (in the diagram you post) @ the regulator should go to terminal #2 on the alt.? Or left as an aux. source of 12v power?

Thanks, Pritch

[VetteVet]

Yes and here is the diagram.



12b is the black ground wire

[pritch]

I see. Thanks, Vet. I'll clean up these loose ends tomorrow.

[into69z]

Pritch-what/where did you get he alternator from-I want to do the swap too but not sure which is a good year to get.

[pritch]

Originally Posted by into69z

Pritch-what/where did you get he alternator from-I want to do the swap too but not sure which is a good year to get.

I would say that it is the 'SI' in Vette Vet's pictures. My friend showed up with it at work one day and said it was brand new rebuilt and fits Chevys. We did the smart phone bar code reader thing and it said it fit most everything GM built in the 70's and 80's. Someday when I need more power I'll get a stronger one, but for now I just wanted one that wasn't 40 years old

I'll watch those wires to see if they get hot at all. Last thing I want is to have a melt down.

[71meangreenc10]

Pritch,

All the red wires are connected together at a lug down in the corner of the driver fender, according to what alt you put in if you dont upgrade the wire size it can run very hot over at the battery connection, (Mine did) I replaced all the red wire with 10 g wire (except the one going back to the fuse block) and mine is charging better and not getting hot (So far).

Keep an eye on it, grab the wire that is going to the battery from the lug and see its condition. You will know if your going to be ok or not.

Smitty

[VetteVet]

This is my mess where the wires are joined.


Most any GM alternator in the 80s will work but get one for a larger vehicle like cadillac or buick.



If you look at the diagram I posted in my first post it shows a small black/white wire with a fuse that also goes to this junction. This is the alternator side of the battery gauge in the dash. Idiot light trucks did not have this wire so for those of you that have the battery gauge (ammeter) you should have this wire and the other side of the gauge goes to the terminal bolt on the right passenger fender.

[71meangreenc10]

With the SI you may be ok, the CS and above put out alot more amps which my wires couldnt hold.

Smitty

[pritch]

I went for a 40 mile quick trip to Home Depot today and the wires didn't get hot at all. I'll keep my eye on things, though. Thanks, everyone

[71meangreenc10]

No problem,

Remember VetteVet "Is the Man" when you need electrical help....I just go out there and burn stuff up....

Smitty