What cups or plates to use? 20"s, accuair and stock components.

[Pkh66]

Here is what I'm trying to achieve. I want to lay level at all settings meaning utilizing the same or similar amount of the bags to front and rear. I am planning on running a CPP HD notch as I am not trying to disturb the bed. I am wanting to keep the original suspension components, TA's and CA's. Do I need to cup below the LCA?

Here is the gear,
Jason hooked it up on the accuair air mgmt 2 system.
20x8.5" and 20x13"s
Contitech 2600's all the way
Tires are 255/45r20's and 15x29x20's. They both should run around 29"s mounted.

How low will it go? Level.
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[lolife99]

Your bags completely deflated will be approximately 3" tall.
You can cut four wooden 4x4's to a height of 3".
Pull the coil springs and replace them with your wooden blocks.
That will show you exactly how low it will get.

What year truck are you working on?

[Pkh66]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Your bags completely deflated will be approximately 3" tall.
You can cut four wooden 4x4's to a height of 3".
Pull the coil springs and replace them with your wooden blocks.
That will show you exactly how low it will get.

What year truck are you working on?

Oops. 72swb with a big block. Good idea on the 4x4's.
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[kieth]

Originally Posted by Pkh66

Oops. 72swb with a big block. Good idea on the 4x4's.
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If the stock location for the airbags (where the coils springs originally were) then you will have to move the bags outside the frame so you can get more drop. If you move the bag brackets behind the rear axle then the brackets should be lower than the trailing arm so you can gain some more drop. Kieth

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by kieth

If the stock location for the airbags (where the coils springs originally were) then you will have to move the bags outside the frame so you can get more drop. If you move the bag brackets behind the rear axle then the brackets should be lower than the trailing arm so you can gain some more drop. Kieth

There's no reason to move the bag from the stock location,... since he doesn't want to cut up the bed.

[Pkh66]

Originally Posted by lolife99

There's no reason to move the bag from the stock location,... since he doesn't want to cut up the bed.

I was assuming I was correct in utilizing the factory location. Thank you for verifying. So what plates/cups do I need for the rear if any? I have 2 2" cups, 2 3" cups and one flat upper plate in the typical diameter to match the top of the bags. I did not receive the large plate for the front uppers so I still need this too. I'd prefer to use those rather than a cup in the xmember.
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[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Pkh66

Here is what I'm trying to achieve. I want to lay level at all settings meaning utilizing the same or similar amount of the bags to front and rear. I am planning on running a CPP HD notch as I am not trying to disturb the bed....... 20x13"s and 15x29x20's....

Those stock wheel tubs are going to be a bit narrow to accomodate the massive meats. I'm pretty sure your going to have to "disturb the bed" to make those fit.

I assume you mean you don't want to have a big hole for a step notch and bridge and I agree 100%.

[Pkh66]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Those stock wheel tubs are going to be a bit narrow to accomodate the massive meats. I'm pretty sure your going to have to "disturb the bed" to make those fit.

I assume you mean you don't want to have a big hole for a step notch and bridge and I agree 100%.

Yep. Already done on the tubs. I'd just prefer to retail the factory bed height and not have the notch up. Do I need to reverse cup the LCA's for any reason? Meaning sink an 8" in them?

By the way, your truck is awesome.
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[Pkh66]

So, still wondering what to do to cups on LCA and what to do in the rear to attach the bags? Thanks for any insight.
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[lolife99]

The rear bags can be bolted in without an upper or lower cup.
Use a 3/8"x4" bolt thru the trailing arm, and drill the frame for 2 bag bolts and 1 air fitting.
Some people cup the front lower a-arms,... but if you're not going to pull the inner fenders there is really no need.
Run an upper plate and a cut down lower cut that fits in the stock lower a-arm.

[Pkh66]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The rear bags can be bolted in without an upper or lower cup.
Use a 3/8"x4" bolt thru the trailing arm, and drill the frame for 2 bag bolts and 1 air fitting.
Some people cup the front lower a-arms,... but if you're not going to pull the inner fenders there is really no need.
Run an upper plate and a cut down lower cut that fits in the stock lower a-arm.

Perfect. That is what I was looking for. Running a 29" tire and lowering LCA mounting point will hit upper then? I was thinking of running a tad smaller rubber up front because I get small rub under hard dips with 245/55/20's now. Worth dropping below the LCA any if I lower overall diameter? Thx lolife.
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[Pkh66]

One last question. I have contitech 2600 bags. They seem to sit around 5" out the box I'm assuming there is an internal bump stop within and this is aired out height. With that said do I need to cup the LCA below to get the bag to sit lower than with a stock LCA? Thanks for any insight.
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[tubbedII]

The bags will sit higher with nothing pressing them down. 3" compressed height is about the norm. All trucks are a little different, but I have the same set up on my Blazer as you have (no cupped LCA's) and it sits pretty level. If anything, the front is a hair higher, but nothing more than 1/2". I wouldn't touch the lca's until you get it down on the bags and see how you like it.

[Pkh66]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

The bags will sit higher with nothing pressing them down. 3" compressed height is about the norm. All trucks are a little different, but I have the same set up on my Blazer as you have (no cupped LCA's) and it sits pretty level. If anything, the front is a hair higher, but nothing more than 1/2". I wouldn't touch the lca's until you get it down on the bags and see how you like it.

Good point. I'll set it all up first. Probably will trim the lower front cup down to an inch or so. Thanks for the advice.
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[tubbedII]

Should have mentioned that that pumpkin will more than likely hit the bed if you have 2" blocks in the rear and you let the rear go all the way into the c-notch (without the CPP bump stops installed). With the lower cups cut down flush with the lca, and messing with the bump stops on the c-notch, you should be able to get the stance aired out where you want it.

On my blazer, I didn't install the bump stops to try and get it as low as possible. The pumpkin hit the bed, so I cut a hole for it to pertrude through. I only did this because it was causing the rear to sit unlevel aired out (the right side was about 1" higher than the left). I also have a bench and carpet so you can't see the hole too...

[Pkh66]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

Should have mentioned that that pumpkin will more than likely hit the bed if you have 2" blocks in the rear and you let the rear go all the way into the c-notch (without the CPP bump stops installed). With the lower cups cut down flush with the lca, and messing with the bump stops on the c-notch, you should be able to get the stance aired out where you want it.

On my blazer, I didn't install the bump stops to try and get it as low as possible. The pumpkin hit the bed, so I cut a hole for it to pertrude through. I only did this because it was causing the rear to sit unlevel aired out (the right side was about 1" higher than the left). I also have a bench and carpet so you can't see the hole too...

All good info, after your reply I looked through your bag thread. Noticed you opened up bed. Trying to prevent from putting the big notch in but..... Guess I'd just like to retain as factory as possible. Thanks for the input.
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[First66]

Originally Posted by Pkh66

All good info, after your reply I looked through your bag thread. Noticed you opened up bed. Trying to prevent from putting the big notch in but..... Guess I'd just like to retain as factory as possible. Thanks for the input.
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+1 for your build thread with lots of pics. You're doing exactly what im going for, 'cept you have it figured out already.

[kieth]

Here is a link to a build thread on this website. He initially installed the front air bags with a flat plate on the upper crossmember and a quality air ride 6" circle in the lower control arm, this will leave about 4" between the upper crossmember and the lower A arm. In his thread he cuts out the lower arm and gains that 3-4" of additional drop which yu said you did not need, but this shows how to gain that if yo want for not much cash...


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=449548&page=3

Kieth go to post #66 to see the beginning of the process.

If u scroll down further u can see the front end assembled and how low it sits. post #71

[Pkh66]

Keith,

Thanks for the info. That has been the question. Should I use cups or box/cup the lowers. I'm going to throw it together to get an idea on ride height with similar height of bags then determine what to use. I'm cutting the cups that I have (6") to lay as close to the a arms as possible for a test fit. We will see.

You both are in OK. I passed through there this weekend. Might need to schedule a cruise soon.
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