New to forum - Looking for information

[crabbypatty333]

Hello,

Next week my dad will be driving down from Powell, WY to Tulsa, OK to deliver my grandfathers 1968 Chevy Truck. My Dad will be trailering the truck down. It does run, and I was game for the adventure of trying to drive it down, but in the end it was decided that it was not necessary to take the risk. Could have been a cool experience though...

The truck has been residing with my aunt in Powell since my grandfathers death back in the mid 90's. The VIN # is CS148S125167. Based on my limited knowledge this means I have a 1968 1/2 ton truck with a 6 cylinder. That means either a 250 or 292 6-cylinder, right? I believe the motor to be the 292 but I will have to confirm engine codes when I receive it.

I have seen the truck before although I have not spent a lot of time with it. It is a single cab long bed. I don't know how many miles are on it. My recollection is that it is generally all there and I don't recall a ton of rust although like I said I didn't look it over very close. My goal for the truck is to keep it road worthy and maybe someday repaint it and redo the interior. I am not a mechanic. I have limited skills and tinker at best. I imagine that I will be out sourcing most of the engine/drive train work and the body work and painting.

Questions for the forum:
1) Any specific advice you would give me before before starting on this journey?

2) I anticipate one of the early steps to be either rebuilding the existing motor or replacing it with a crate motor. My primary consideration is going to be budget, budget, budget. Opinions? If I go crate, how difficult would it be go to a 350 v8? Any recommendations on transmissions to go with the 350 for a good, realiable, budget priced drive train?

3) Are there any forum members in or near the Tulsa area that would be willing to take the time to meet with me and share some of their experience, possibly look at my truck with me, and offer opinions on reputible places to get engine or body work done?

Thanks for taking the time to read my post. I'm sure I will have several more posts in the near future.

[Steve Hafner]

. . . .

WELCOME . . . the best advice I can give you is to read all of the build threads you can ( they are full of information that will help you )

You can start with mine, below !!! LOL

[Ackattack]

Well you've suceeded with the best step, finding this board. Tons of information, and a lot to read.

IMO, the best way to learn about something is to read about it, and then do it. I don't hire any work out if I can help it, and have learned so much by doing it myself.

If there isn't anything wrong with the 6banger, why not just run it....its really cheap, cause its already there!

Be sure to post pictures.

[C20-67_N_MO]

First off.....


to the forum!

There should be a few members here near your location that may take you up on your request.

Now as far as engine and tranny swaps, depending on what you have now would determine how easy it would be for an upgrade. I think the Powerglide is about the same length as the short shaft TH350 transmission.

Post up some pictures once you get your truck back home!

[LockDoc]

-
As some of the others have mentioned that six may surprise you. Those things are tough as nails.... My Green '67 has a six cyl. and it drives really nice. The easiest way for me to tell if it is a 250 cubic inch or a 292 cubic inch is to look at the metal push rod/lifter covers on the passenger side of the block. If they are 4" tall it is a 250 and if they are 6" tall it is a 292. The fuel pumps are also in different locations.

Here is a good thread on the differences in the two:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321521

Welcome to the board.

LockDoc

[hugger6933]

Make sure like said above the brakes are good the tires are not all cracked and showing signs of dry rot. Then move on to the steering make sure that the box is tight with no slack in the steering and suspension[ie ball joints wheel bearing seals and the like] once it will steer and stop safly then it will be time for tuning cleaning varnish and gum from tank lines and carb make sure that the pionts are set within spec shifter adjustments [to elimnate hang ups in the column shifter] change oils fliuds one end to another. Find a car guy friend to help you as you go after it steers stops and purrs clean up can come at any time in there and enjoy. That should be a very enjoyable truck and once it is gone over it would be a dependabletruck like an old friend you can'nt picture being without.

[glider_6969]

When ever you are stuck post a pic of what you are working on, we all love pics.. sometimes pics are better than words,,

[treveiger]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Make sure like said above the brakes are good the tires are not all cracked and showing signs of dry rot. Then move on to the steering make sure that the box is tight with no slack in the steering and suspension[ie ball joints wheel bearing seals and the like] once it will steer and stop safly then it will be time for tuning cleaning varnish and gum from tank lines and carb make sure that the pionts are set within spec shifter adjustments [to elimnate hang ups in the column shifter] change oils fliuds one end to another. Find a car guy friend to help you as you go after it steers stops and purrs clean up can come at any time in there and enjoy. That should be a very enjoyable truck and once it is gone over it would be a dependabletruck like an old friend you can'nt picture being without.

I agree, although make sure you change all the fluid before you try to run it, old oil is killer on a motor. This forum is a place to be if you want to do this. Two years ago I knew nothing about cars or motors, and this summer I took my motor an trans out (first time I ever did it) an resealed the motor an got the trans resealed an put it back together an its running great. I learned a lot about the truck when I did that an now actually feels like its mine not someone else's. I'd run the motor till she goes, those motors are cool an not as common. Welcome to the forum
Posted via Mobile Device

[crabbypatty333]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
As some of the others have mentioned that six may surprise you. Those things are tough as nails.... My Green '67 has a six cyl. and it drives really nice. The easiest way for me to tell if it is a 250 cubic inch or a 292 cubic inch is to look at the metal push rod/lifter covers on the passenger side of the block. If they are 4" tall it is a 250 and if they are 6" tall it is a 292. The fuel pumps are also in different locations.

Here is a good thread on the differences in the two:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321521

Welcome to the board.

LockDoc

RE: 250 vs 292 - Thanks for the link LockDoc. I read a little about the differences and looking at my pictures I am inclined to say that I have a 250 in this truck. It appears that the passenger side engine mount is further back and that the fuel pump is located just in front of the mount between the mount and the oil filter. Would you guys agree?

[bruceman1968]

Yes, it's a 250, which is a great motor. I'd keep it if it were me. Also you got a GREAT lookin truck with a awesome story behind it. I love it, Thanks for sharin it with us.
Here are a couple threads with some tricked out sixes, and Welcome to the board.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=258488
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=276823

[stomper]

Welcome! We'll need pictures to give you our most accurate opinions

Post some up when you get it.

If it were MY G'pas' blue '68 that I used to ride out to the farm in (truck is long gone), I'd keep it as close to original as possible. It can be rebuilt and repainted 100 times but it's only original once.

If you're on a budget, replacing a running engine seems to not be the way to go. There are many cases of neglected trucks just needing a tune up and a little elbow grease to run well and be great drivers. Also there's no shame in a 6 cyl. They really purr when tuned right, have plenty of torque, and are kind-of a novelty now a days. Love it for what it is.

If it has original paint and it's all one color the most popular thing to do would be give it a good bath and leave it alone. A truck showing it's bumps and bruises that took decades to earn gets respect. Some would even say polishing the paint would be like polishing a patina off of a tiffany lamp. You've seen Antique Roadshow, right?

#1 Don't go crazy buying a bunch of parts you don't really need and tearing things apart that don't need fixing. ...Good way to blow a budget.

#2 Make sure the brakes are good before you drive it. "Whoa" before "Go".

My opinion may change if its in really bad shape. i.e. big rust holes, missing parts, etc... Then it may make sense to upgrade components and finishes.

For what it's worth, that's what I think...

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by stomper

Welcome! We'll need pictures to give you our most accurate opinions

Post some up when you get it.

If it were MY G'pas' blue '68 that I used to ride out to the farm in (truck is long gone), I'd keep it as close to original as possible. It can be rebuilt and repainted 100 times but it's only original once.

If you're on a budget, replacing a running engine seems to not be the way to go. There are many cases of neglected trucks just needing a tune up and a little elbow grease to run well and be great drivers. Also there's no shame in a 6 cyl. They really purr when tuned right, have plenty of torque, and are kind-of a novelty now a days. Love it for what it is.

If it has original paint and it's all one color the most popular thing to do would be give it a good bath and leave it alone. A truck showing it's bumps and bruises that took decades to earn gets respect. Some would even say polishing the paint would be like polishing a patina off of a tiffany lamp. You've seen Antique Roadshow, right?

#1 Don't go crazy buying a bunch of parts you don't really need and tearing things apart that don't need fixing. ...Good way to blow a budget.

#2 Make sure the brakes are good before you drive it. "Whoa" before "Go".

My opinion may change if its in really bad shape. i.e. big rust holes, missing parts, etc... Then it may make sense to upgrade components and finishes.

For what it's worth, that's what I think...

+1 - good info right here ^.

[domeier]

One more vote for keeping the straight six. I love how easy they are to work on with all that open space in the engine compartment, and they last and last and last.

If it's sat for some years, you're going to need a battery, tires, wiper blades and change out all the fluids. Flush the radiator and take a good look at all the wheel brake cylinders. They tend to rot out if they sit. Master cylinder too, and flush out all the old brake fluid from the lines. Make sure you put a fuel filter on it before running it if it doesn't have one. You'll probably go through a few filters until the tank and line clean up.

Have fun!

[mcbassin]

WELCOME TO THE BOARD! Jwall is right about Kenny. Super guy with good prices.

There are several members from Tulsa on here too. Talk to 68 short step he will steer you in the engine direction.....LS of course He knows everything about them. And you can pick one up pretty cheap on Craigs.

[stsalvage]

at one time 15 years ago i would of junked every inline 6 But now there getting hard to come buy.and with the New 700R4 out and the offanhouser 4 bb alum intake you can have a really nice truck But the 700R4 is a major up grade 1988--early 1993 cable 700R4 with the overdrive make that truck run so sweet

[crabbypatty333]

Wow. Thanks for all the responses and the warm welcome. I certainly hope to enjoy this truck for a long time to come and to participate in this community of truck onwers.

The truck, which came with the name "old yeller", arrived safely last Sunday night and we coaxed her to start and backed her off the trailer and onto Oklahoma soil, er, well at least Oklahoma pavement. My aunt gave me a copy of the loan papers from the First National Bank of Meeteetse dated October 20th, 1969 where my grandfather and grandmother signed the documents for a $1,800.00 loan to purchase the truck. They purchased the truck from Chopping Chevrolet in Thermopolis, WY.



I failed to clarify in my previous post that the truck was running before it left Wyoming. I said it has been with my aunt since 1990 but it has not be dormant during that time. Up until about 5 years ago it was driven daily. My Aunts husband is a mechanic for a local tractor dealer there in Powell, WY and even after they stopped driving it he made sure that it was excercised every now and then and got fresh fluid periodically.

Before I had given up on driving the truck to Oklahoma they took it into their mechanic for a checkup. The mechanic replaced the alternator belts, plugs, wires, oil and air filters, lower radiator hose, water pump, fuel filter, oil and antifreeze. He checked brakes and found the master a little low and thought that there is likely a wheel cylinder leaking a little bit, but other than that they checked out ok.

I am coming around more and more to the idea of keeping the six and keeping the truck as original as possible. I intend to replace items that are damaged or not working such as the rear view mirror and the visors, etc... My biggest concern is how do I keep it the way it is but preserve it from further decay? Is there a way to address the rust without painting it? Or would a paint job be in order (same color of course).

Ok. I'm going to flood you with pictures so I apologize in advance. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Here is the way I got her...

[crabbypatty333]

More pictures...

My aunt said the towing package and brake control were on the truck when they bought it. Dealer upgrade? Certainly don't look stock...

[crabbypatty333]

Even still more pictures... somebody said you guys like pictures...

[heeroyue2002]

looks nice

[pbjsammich]

Truck looks great, Crabby! The fact that you have a story to tell behind the truck makes it all that much cooler!!

I just signed onto the board a few months back upon the purchase of my truck. Really haven't posted much here, but I check the board often for used parts and for technical questions. That search feature should provide unlimited amounts of knowledge for whatever direction you take this truck in.

For me, getting started included the first step of looking the truck over HARD. Climb around, find soft spots, find things that are leaking, etc. Drive the truck and see what needs to be addressed. When I bought my 72 Monte Carlo, it drove terribly. Just about every front end bushing was clanking around. That made my priority list easy to fill out.

Once she's running and driving SAFELY and dependably, you'll probably have had it for a few weeks. I'm willing to bet by that time, you have a good handle on what direction to take it in.

For me, I like the look of an old weathered C10. Solid, but weathered. Your truck looks right up my alley

I have sixxer in mine and just got it running a few weeks ago. It's not winning any drag races, but I like it. There will be a V8 swap in it's future, but that's not high on my list right now.

FYI, I have some extra monojet carbs if you're in need of one. One appears to be in good working order. Shoot me a PM if it's needed.

Good luck with your project. BTW, I'm kinda diggin the rear bumper

EDIT: I'll also suggest an HEI swap if not already done. Just grabbed one off ebay for $70 shipped. Or go diving at the pick & pulls and get one off a later model sixxer!!

[crabbypatty333]

Originally Posted by pbjsammich

EDIT: I'll also suggest an HEI swap if not already done. Just grabbed one off ebay for $70 shipped. Or go diving at the pick & pulls and get one off a later model sixxer!!

OK, I'm going to show my mechanical ignorance a little. I did a search for HEI both on the forum and on ebay and now realize that it is a distributor. What is the benefit of the HEI distributor over the stock distributor? Is this an easy unbolt one device and bolt the other in swap or is it more complicated than that?

[hounddogs!]

Originally Posted by crabbypatty333

OK, I'm going to show my mechanical ignorance a little. I did a search for HEI both on the forum and on ebay and now realize that it is a distributor. What is the benefit of the HEI distributor over the stock distributor? Is this an easy unbolt one device and bolt the other in swap or is it more complicated than that?

HEI eliminates points & condensor, so no adjustments/maintenance needed. In a nutshell, the project is:

--unhook battery
--remove dist cap and mark where the dizzy is pointing. (for ease, kick the motor until it's pointed straight back at the firewall or some other easy reference.)
--remove dist and coil
--install HEI with the bug pointed to the same point that the dizzy was.
--check three times to make sure you're confident that you've done the previous step. The HEI shaft will rotate slightly as you engage the drive gear and it's easy to be a tooth off from where you think you are.
--using 10ga wire, run 12V from an ign hot source on the fuse block
--apply power and test

What did I miss, guys?

[PanelDeland]

Welcome!!!!The only real rust I spotted is the factory applied rusted out under the battery area.That truck is really solid looking,don't be surprised if the milage is original.I would look to the parts vendor on the BB here and see if I could match the interior color to replace the seatcover,dash pad and sunvisors.I would really encourage you to just clean it up good and drive it a while.You'll figure out which way to go.Maybe just PS and PB.

[gearys 5600]

WELCOME...From Tulsa

[TobyArnot]

I love hearing what others have said. I'm the first one to cut one up. But you have a darn nice truck condition-wise and valid documentation from day one. I'd really think seriously about restoring it back to original. In these tough ecnomic times, I'm betting it would be a fair investment. I'm not a restore freak, but buy another shell later to modify. One with no pedigree.
.
JMO