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10-11-2011, 10:29 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: LBC California
Posts: 497
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When changing/replacing your drum brake system, do you...?
...do you get a new set of springs kit? and drums and adjusters? I was hoping to just swap the wheel cylinders, change the shoe, lubricate the star adjuster, put antiseize compound on the backing plate area, and resurface the drums. Also, do you do the rears too? Just curious how everyone does it when it comes to change the brake shoes (since it's my first time working on a drum brake system - front).
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- 1967 Chevrolet C/10 SWB fleetside (New Project). - 1969 Chevrolet C/10 SWB fleetside (SOLD) - 2000 Ford Mustang 232 (DD) - 2003 Ford SVT Cobra "Terminator" 281 (Once in a blue moon driver/weekend driver) |
10-11-2011, 11:10 PM | #2 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
Posts: 7,947
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Re: When changing/replacing your drum brake system, do you...?
I get new springs and turn the drums/disc rotor every other brake change (if I keep the vehicle that long) and have never had any problems doing it that way.
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10-12-2011, 12:08 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Moorpark, California
Posts: 159
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Re: When changing/replacing your drum brake system, do you...?
Usually you get new springs and retainers for the shoes. You do not get the bigger springs that stretch over the bolt at the top of the backing plate. You do not get new adjusters either. Look at your drums and see if they have any big grooves in them. Also check the shoes and see if they are down to the rivets which is not good. The drums can be turned but there is a limit as to how much. The brake shop that does this work can tell you if yours can be turned.Other than that your plan is right on. Just check those other items the big springs,and adjusters to make sure thet are ok. Buy a brake tool to take of those springs and to put them back on. This tool will also help with those little springs that hold the shoe to the backing plate. Wear saftey goggles and be careful. To get the drums off turn the adjusters with a brake adjuster tool till the wheel turns easely. They should come right off. When putting thr drums on start with them fairly closed so as the drum goes on easy. Put the tire back on and turn the adjuster until you cannot move the tire, then back it off until you hear the drum barely touching the shoe. The back brakes are the same except some have self adjusters. They are often harder to get off. You may have to hit the center axle wih a hammer to get them to "pop" off. Don't get too agressive as the drums are cast iron. After you have installed the rear brakes You will turn the adjuster on the rear tire until you hear the drums just touching the shoes then stop. The rear brakes are usually self adjusting and adjust when you back up and put on the brakes. One last thing. Take apart ONE SIDE AT A TIME. That way if you get confused you can go to the other side and see how it goes. This will be more important on the rear brakes as they have some extra parts. Hope this helps and don't forget to bleed those brakes and fill the master cylinder often so as not to get more air in the lines. Take your time. Make sure you have some pressure on your brake pedal before you go anywhere and then drive real slow and make sure you can stop before getting out on the road.
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