mig welder

[69pickupnyc]

I am going to replace part of the cab floor,rockers and corners what would be a good mig welder for a first timer to purchase?

[68gmsee]

Actually, there's no "first time purchaser" on mig welders unless you intend to upgrade after you buy it.

If you're looking for a decent one at a decent price, a lot of guys say the Hobart brand is a good one to buy. I haven't bought mine yet but I'm looking at either a small Miller, Hobart or a Lincoln. Just haven't made up my mine yet. It will depend on cost for me since I'm retired and won't be using it much.

[biggestjohn]

Miller Millermatic 140.

Don't make the same mistake I made years ago, buy a Miller!!!

[sixtyeightchevykid]

i recently bought the eastwood mig 135, it is really simple, and can handle a wide range of metal thickness, the knobs are not "click knobs" this feature is found on high dollar setups, it allows you to fine tune the welder for the paticular material you are using. the price was a lot lower than comparable other makes and models.

[Shyguy]

I bought a Hobart 125 from Northern Tool a few years ago, at the time they offered free shipping. It can use either flux core or solid wire (if you have gas hooked up).

My son has a Lincoln 135 and he only welds with flux core wire. The welds are not a smooth with flux core, but he grinds them down and uses a little Bondo to fill the imperfections.

Millers are also very good brands.

I don't think you can go wrong with either of the 3, but if you can, buy one that can be used with flux core or solid wire.

You will need to practice some before you tackle the cab corners.

[D-man313]

Miller 140 auto-set

[jocko]

I can't recommend the Miller Auto-Set 211 enough - I really like mine. Dual polarity so you can go 115/230V, it's simple (i.e. good for beginners) with the auto-set (I read that as I didn't want to get so frustrated with crappy welds because of the experience necessary to set manual feed/voltage machines - so I personally really like the machine).

It's not the cheapest, but it's also far from the most expensive one too. I specifically narrowed my search to dual-voltage machines because I move a lot and don't always have the option to get 230V wired into the garage - so this is a nice feature for me. If you own your home and have 230V already, then you might just go with a 230V machine.

Regardless, i am personally a Miller fan for life.

Also recommend investing in a quality auto-darkening helmet. It's safe and keeps you from trying to "find" what you're welding on in the case of a non-auto-darkening one.

I agree with D-Man, Miller 140 is also a great option - I think the ONLY difference is it can't weld quite as thick of steel as the 211 - but it's a great machine for home auto repair and resto. Heavy metal/frame fab might be too much, but not sure. That's why I got the 211, wanted to only buy once. BUT, in hindsight, I have yet to do anything on my truck that the 140 could not have handled - so that's a nice machine and is less expensive than other Millers.

[D-man313]

Also recommend investing in a quality auto-darkening helmet. It's safe and keeps you from trying to "find" what you're welding on in the case of a non-auto-darkening one.

I agree with D-Man, Miller 140 is also a great option - I think the ONLY difference is it can't weld quite as thick of steel as the 211 - but it's a great machine for home auto repair and resto. Heavy metal/frame fab might be too much, but not sure. That's why I got the 211, wanted to only buy once. BUT, in hindsight, I have yet to do anything on my truck that the 140 could not have handled - so that's a nice machine and is less expensive than other Millers.[/QUOTE]

good points, i was done with frame fab when i bought my 140. During the frame work, my dad brought home a miller 250 from work. So when i need a heavier welder i can get one.

The 140 is a great sheet metal welder and can handle most of the thinner flat stock. I think the 140 says that the max thickness is 3/16" with a double pass. The only that i have to watch while welding heaver metal is make the welds shorter or i pop the breaker.

[PanelDeland]

Originally Posted by jocko

I can't recommend the Miller Auto-Set 211 enough - I really like mine. Dual polarity so you can go 115/230V, it's simple (i.e. good for beginners) with the auto-set (I read that as I didn't want to get so frustrated with crappy welds because of the experience necessary to set manual feed/voltage machines - so I personally really like the machine).

It's not the cheapest, but it's also far from the most expensive one too. I specifically narrowed my search to dual-voltage machines because I move a lot and don't always have the option to get 230V wired into the garage - so this is a nice feature for me. If you own your home and have 230V already, then you might just go with a 230V machine.

Regardless, i am personally a Miller fan for life.

Also recommend investing in a quality auto-darkening helmet. It's safe and keeps you from trying to "find" what you're welding on in the case of a non-auto-darkening one.

I agree with D-Man, Miller 140 is also a great option - I think the ONLY difference is it can't weld quite as thick of steel as the 211 - but it's a great machine for home auto repair and resto. Heavy metal/frame fab might be too much, but not sure. That's why I got the 211, wanted to only buy once. BUT, in hindsight, I have yet to do anything on my truck that the 140 could not have handled - so that's a nice machine and is less expensive than other Millers.

I don't think I could have said it any better.Look around on the web.The Miller 211 usually retails at the LWS for about $1200(I got the machine,bottle,fill and a cheapie AD hood for less than that),but I found it online for$989 and my LWS matched that and gave me a break on a bottle and fill.I was welding within about an hour after picking it up.I even watched the video before starting.I've used a Hobart 140 and it's a great machine but when you need a bit more you'll be spending more to upgrade.

[Fitz]

[QUOTE=jocko;4968879]I can't recommend the Miller Auto-Set 211 enough - I really like mine.

It's not the cheapest....
QUOTE]

Miller bought Hobart several years ago and, if you watch for the sale announcements, you can get an autoset 211 for aboutme price as a Hobart Handler 180 when it's not on sale. Great welder. The Hobart Handler 140 and the Miller 140 look about the same and work the same. They are both good welders but the 211 is well worth the 200 or so additional.

[longbed67]

The first question should have been whats your budget???

[Ackattack]

I have a miller 180 (220V) and have never had any issues with the machine. I've welded 1/4" thick control arms for my jeep, my frame on my 69 after shortening it, and A LOT of VERY thin sheet metal.

Gotta get an auto darkening helmet and gas.

[STOCKISH]

For sheet metal work and anything up to 1/4 inch, get a Hobart Handler 140. Read the reviews. It is actually a GREAT machine. Welds just as nice as my Miller 220v and the Snap-On muscle mig.

[doubleb's69]

I have a Lincoln SP 100. It is perfect for body work. But if you were going to be welding any thing over 3/16ths of an inch you would need something bigger. Get something that has a provision for guages for argon.

[blkcorvair]

I got a Clarke EN180 bout 6 years ago from northern tool. Under $500 came with cart and self dimming helmet. Built a racecar, trailer, and now my c10 with it. Hasnt let me down yet. It is 220v, but I can weld some pretty thick stuff. Including a new Trailer tongue on my car trailer. Has worked as well as my Miller at work and better that my dads 125amp 110v Lincoln

[72 K20]

I've used 3 different hobart wire welders in the last year and have been disappointed and frustrated with the performance. 2 were 110VAC models , the other 220VAC. All 3 seemed to have trouble feeding wire consistantly if at all. I ran or tried to run flux core in the 110 models and Mig in the 220 model,,, all with dismal results. I own a 110 VAC Lincoln and it works ok for the thin stuff but I won't use it for anything over 1/8".
I have a Lincoln SP200 for the heavier welding. I have owned a Miller-Matic 250 and was very happy with it but traded it for some other equipment.

I would say to buy as big of welder as you can,, it's easier to weld light stuff with a big welder turned down than it is to weld heavier metals with a small welder turned all the way up. Most of the time the bigger the welder, the higher the duty cycle.

These are my opinions and experiences and should be taken as such .

[cell]

Do yourself a favor -- check with your local community college to see if they offer a welding course. For me, it was the best $250 I've spent, welding-wise.

[crazy longhorn]

I have always had the old Lincoln stick machine, but started with an sp 100 Lincoln mig....chopped the top on my longhorn with it, as well as rebuilding the bottom of several cabs (daily drivers), built a go kart for the kids, & cloths line poles for the wifey. I also now have a 200 amp Lincoln that is my favorite For a l;ittle more , I could have opted for a Miller, with TIG capabilities....hindsite is 20/20 crazyL

[MARKDTN]

I have an old Hobart stick welder, that thing is incredible! But it is hard to weld thin stuff with a stick welder, so I bought a MIG. Hobart is owned by Miller now, in fact my Hobart Handler 180 came with a Miller gun. I would recommend a 220V machine if you have any way to power it (close to a dryer or oven or even water heater maybe). Northern Tool carries Hobart. I bought mine on Ebay from weldingsuppliesatioc. Got a great price and fast shipping. Don't even consider a wirefeed without gas, the gas is well worth the extra effort IMHO.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by cell

Do yourself a favor -- check with your local community college to see if they offer a welding course. For me, it was the best $250 I've spent, welding-wise.

I have two things to say on this subject. My local community offers learning classes. I took one on welding. The class was held at the local high school and like cell says, it was money well spent. In fact I took it a second time.

2nd point. Go to a local welding supplier. Find out what brands they sell AND SERVICE and pick one of those brands. You may find a better/cheaper deal online or from a place that sells them but you want to be able to service your unit after you get it home.

If you take a local class you'll probably hear from the instructor or a classmate where the best local supplier is. That is how I ended up buying my Miller where I did.

[bigsnookmaster]

I have two Miller xp 130 welders. 110 volt, and they work nice on the thinner stuff. I have a Miller Vintage 220 volt for the thicker stuff. I like the Miller line of welders. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra for the Argon-CO2 mix setup. You'll be happier with the results .02

[Hellbent]

Originally Posted by bigsnookmaster

I have two Miller xp 130 welders. 110 volt, and they work nice on the thinner stuff. I have a Miller Vintage 220 volt for the thicker stuff. I like the Miller line of welders. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra for the Argon-CO2 mix setup. You'll be happier with the results .02

2X on this, I love my XP130.

[GCncsuHD]

I recently picked up a Hobart Handler 187 and I am pretty happy with it. I have used Miller 180s and 211s before. IMO you can't really go wrong with any of the big names, just get one big enough to handle what you intend to do with it. And FYI the Hobarts and Millers are built by the same company and use many of the same components. The difference really is in the extra features (such as autoset) on the Millers, and the Millers are supposed to be built a little more rugged, such as a few metal components where the Hobart has plastic. For the normal/hobbyist use the Hobart should suit, but for lots of heavy usage I might would consider paying more for the Miller.

[69pickupnyc]

thank you for all your help, I will buy a miller 140